Post a picture and we'll give you a good idea. I agree with all that has been said above, and I'll add that once you've seen ivory in hand, elephant ivory that is, you'll almost always be able to identify it instantly in future.
Printable View
Post a picture and we'll give you a good idea. I agree with all that has been said above, and I'll add that once you've seen ivory in hand, elephant ivory that is, you'll almost always be able to identify it instantly in future.
I work with and deal in Ivory every day,Please do not be burning holes in the material.
Actually when burned it smells like teeth (think dentists office) bone smells like hair.
If you can see Schreger lines (small Vee shaped chevrons) on the edges you have real ivory,they cannot be faked, (Elephant Or Mammoth)will post a pic a little later.
On small pces such as scales they may be hard to see,another test is to hit the pce with UV light in a dark room
It will light up purple,as will bone but the visual diff,between the two is like night and day.
I will +1 to these recommendations. The lines are most distinct on the end grain of the piece. The angle of the V between lines will determine if it's elephant versus mammoth. Those angles do not appear on man made material like celluloid, no matter how good appearing as ivory it is. Same for the ivory micarta. Good fakes but not the real deal by a long shot.
I am going to test the UV. That's new to me and I appreciate learning something.
Honestly guys there are some great ideas and hints on this thread,,,,
But they mostly assume that the guy holding the scales, has different razors to compare them too :)
The best test holding one set of scales, is still the hot pin test, the good news is that you will only have to try it one time on real ivory, after that you can spot it instanly...Without the hot pin test, your eyes and brain are the best tests,,, Ivory scales are thin I mean really thin, so are bone hehehe but if you look under a loupe bone will have holes, little tiny pin prick holes, and Ivory will have grain... After you narrow it down from looking then the hot pin test should be the final one because you might not even need it and it is not so good between Bone and Ivory
In high priced,faked Ivory pieces such as Japanese Netsuki,The hot pin test means nothing.
The pros have ways to use phenolics mixed with Ivory shavings that do not melt and do light up under U.V. light.
Schreger Lines are 100% proof positive along with a U.V test.
Granted, nobody is going to fake Ivory on a razor, but the O.P, wanted a sure way of telling.
Note the pic,The lines are 120+ degrees,this is modern day Elephant (this pce is well over 100 yrs old) with mammoth the lines are 90 degs. or less,easy to tell.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...e/schreger.jpg
Here are some Heljes for comparison. In the photo with the pins the celluloid is on the extreme left. Note the washers as opposed to the ivory which only has the pins. The other photo shows the thinness of the ivory compared to the celluloid. In the photo comparing thickness the celluloid helje is the 2nd from the left. On the far right is an old Sheffield Joseph Rodgers. BTW, IME the grain on a faux ivory is not random. It is consistent while with the genuine article it is random.Attachment 67665Attachment 67666
Thanks to everyone who took the time to post pics and comments to help me out, I love this place !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Jimmy that pic helps a ton..
I just got back from town and was going to go take some, but yers are better :tu
Here are four in a row: Ivory, Antique Ivory, Bone and Celluloid:http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z.../4Swedessm.jpg
Ivory has a very soft luster when polished with toothpaste or polishing compound; notice the light reflected across the top razor. Bone has fine inclusions of dark matter/stain. Celluloid often has a pattern almost like a fabric when held at different angles to the light.
As mentioned above the Ivory scales I have seen usually have no washer. they also may crack if you try to re-tighten them.
Respectfully
~Richard