Thread: Feather Artist Club Question

Just received my new Feather Artist Club straight and the 3 light blades it came with. Inserted the blade which I had assumed would click into position but actually just is held in by the spring pressure and the shave wasn't all that smooth or easy. Quite a bit of irritation in fact.

What I am wondering is how do you know you have the blade in the right position? I used their loader mechanism but it didn't go in straight and aligned across the edge with the holder and so I pushed the blade in until it hit the stop. Looks and feels perhaps too deep in, not sure.

What is making me wonder is I have heard the proper shave angle is very slight almost flat to the face but when I tried that the blade itself didn't even touch my face so the angle became more or less the same as I would have with a normal straight, a few spines off. Does this look inserted correctly?

It does look properly inserted to me.
The thing about these razors is that you really need to ease up on pressure.
Try to use a somewhat shallow angle while using absolutely no pressure.
It should feel like you are not actually touching your skin at all.
But trust me, it will shave
Too much angle or pressure will punish you with burn or cuts.

I use mine for shaving my head mostly these days, and even against the grain on the back of my head, this thing will cut hairs with supreme ease.

No pressure, absolutely no pressure would be my advice!

Good luck

Edit:
The differences between the various blades are just the amount of how much the blade protrudes from the holder.
The professional and the Super professional does protrude more than the light blade.
This, I guess, will give you more angle to play with.

I noticed the spec on the light blade says 1.2mm exposed. I measured about .6mm exposed using a micrometer.

I've never used a Feather AC, but I assume it's similar to a DE in that if the blade is not properly secured it will vibrate or worse, move around, which will cause irritation and a shoddy shave. Play around with the blade position some more, see if you can find the sweet spot. That's all I have for you, hopefully some other Feather enthusiasts will chime in with their advice.

Yeah, before getting it I was under the assumption it would sort of snap into place like with the holes in the blade fitting into posts or something but it is held in strictly by the pressure of the spring squeezing 2 flat plates together. I am guessing they did it this way so you could use de blades maybe cut in half but they are quite a bit shorter then these blades so that might be awkward.

Regarding the blade placement, just open it up completely while holding it with the opening straight up while slipping the blade in, and it should be properly inserted and fastened. I've never had any issues with this method in my 2 years of using the Feather artist club

I agree with Birnando. The Feather blades are very, very sharp. They need a very light touch. I had a nasty experience with a DE razor and Feather blades before I learned the lesson:

. . . "no pressure" means "_NO PRESSURE_" .

Since that lesson, I prefer them to everything else.

charles

It's inserted correctly. Never tried the light or protected blades so can't comment on those. All others including the Kai milds work outstanding. I've often seen people giving advice to keep the razor as close as possible against the face but for me that doesn't work, I really have to use a angle just like with a straight. As said no pressure is needed, I even have some little bumps on my head and can shave over them without cutting into them, it takes some practice. I'm a bit confused about the Feather razors, I have loaned one to 3 friends that wanted to try one and all complained about a lot of cuts and irritation, they are all experienced straight shavers however. Must be the way they apply pressure?

I just got me Feather AC and used the injector to load the blade. As it didn't seat properly, I simply opened the razor with the blade facing up and it just dropped right into place. No muss. No fuss.

Now I'm on the quest to master this beauty.

RK

Yep I worked it out... A few things surprised me that the blades weren't keyed in or snap in but fit by friction between flat plates, and that the light blades it comes with are really just too short and look like they aren't exposed enough which is true since the pro blades look right and feel right. The light blades cause you to use too great an angle and in the end are more irritating then the pro because of that even with no pressure.

The injector is kind of a waste in my opinion, think I would prefer in simple cheap paper like DE blades to cut the cost in half. I imagine the injector is every bit as expensive to make as the blades inside it. Also wondering if there is any sort of ceramic scissor device like what is used to fine up kitchen knives that you could pull the blades through to really smooth then up.