I think its safe to say we all have heard or studied up on some of the vintage artisans who put together many of the blades we revere. Ive run through my cycle in my collection and I swear I can tell differences in the way certain manufacturers behave, and they are all sooo different. So as a curiousity i thought I might post a thread that asks for the opinions of those who work with these vintage blades on a daily basis. I'll give you a run down of what my observations are and perhaps you might have an idea as to the why behind the observation.

Ground rules, 20 passes on linen followed by 40 on leather pre-shave. Hot towel, lather, hot towel, lather, shave (2 pass method), post-shave rhetoric.
Dovo 5/8 full hollow (bought brand new) so contemporary steel and manufacturing methods. A short cut pass method works better then the long streight cut, I have very course growth that mum has always said reminds her of a horses tail. Looses edge and starts to grab about half way through, requires a restrop before second pass or I end up with random assortments of uncut growth everywhere.

Wade and Butcher 8/8 full-hollow (pre-1920 mfg.), I can do single long cuts on the first pass, does not require a restrop and leaves no uncut growth. It is a real pain in the bum around the nose and chin areas however.

Boker King Cutter 5/8 full-hollow (1860-1880 mfg.), Such a freaking close shave that a long first pass will bring blood in tiny little pinprickles and I haven't had the courage to attempt a second pass, almost damn scary to use on the neck, nose, and chin areas...actually I break a sweat using it, doesn't require a restrop and leaves no uncut growth that I have found, quite the opposite actually.

So there are the base lines, I have others a Sears, a big SSA which rides like a cady, a Smith and Wesson which is a monster and would be better suited to hacking down rain forrest then shaving with. I've examined them all closely the grinds are the same from eye level, the steel of the two vintage blades I would believe comparable, why then do they all shave differently? The Boker is lighter and easier to sharpen as well, I probabily could do half the strops and get away with it...the others behave best with the aforementioned treatment. Why do the vintage blades behave better then the contemporary ones? What were the manufacturing differences between the different companies? Oh the Boker tarnishes a little faster then the others, I have to make sure to keep it in mineral oil especially, or I end up having to polish it.

Anyway, I am sure that opens a few doors for huge debate and or other observations by others.

Cheers!

Sasha