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I have noticed that the Camellia oil I apply to my razors becomes quite tacky on the razors I haven't used for a while. I usually wind up applying a small amount of alcohol to a cloth and degreasing the blade. What if anything am I doing wrong and is there an alternative oil out there that won't become tacky over time?
Larry
I used camellia oil on my razor collection a few years ago and was quick to regret it. I left a sticky staining residue in spots where it tended to pool a bit and ran off of other spots on the razors, leaving them to rust with no protection.
I actually had to use metal polish to remove the stains from some razors. The advise that led to me try camellia oil I now consider bad advice and don't recommend anyone using it. I now prefer just wiping with a new silicon cloth but I understand a good quality oil that IS NOT a fruit or vegetable product should also work.
I use Tuf Glide and/or Ren wax.
Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Any thoughts on Hoppes gun lube?Quote:
Originally Posted by Joed
I'm with JoeD. Ren Wax is a great product to help protect your blades. Just remember....when applying, wipe ALL of your finger prints off the blade first. I usually hold the tang, apply to the blade and let dry. Then reverse.
If you Google "Rust Prevention Test" you are going to find a ton of actual tests that have been done with near every product you can name, some are very good, but what I noted was the one that keeps scoring very high in every test (never the best) by every super product...
Good ole' WD-40 I have been using it on razors for years, and it seems to work just fine even on the razors that only get used once per year and sit in a sealed case... I have never had an issue with it damaging scales, and it takes just a spray on some TP and a simple wipe to be done...
ps: To be honest here I have never tried anything else, I found what works for me have never had an issue so I never experimented farther..
Larry,
Camellia oil is a vegetable oil and will, like other vegetable oils, polymerize over time. This polymerization is the same process that enables oil paints to harden. The vaunted camellia rust preventing properties likely depend on regular and frequent re-application and wiping, which are done before the oil ages enough to get gummy. So you can use it if you have a regimen for frequently tending your razors treated with it. A friend who has made Japanese swords actually prefers clove oil for this anti-rusting treatment, but then again they who own those treasured blades don't just let them sit around without regular wiping. Use a petroleum based oil for long term parking. Synthetics work too, as I use a Birchwood Casey synthetic oil on some of my guns to good effect.
"wipe on, wipe off", Bruce
Bruce, thanks for the technical side of the answer and your own observations. My humble collection now has to be brought out cleaned and retreated. I'll try some of the different answers, tag and re-bag the blades and check periodically for results.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce
Larry
DITTO !!!! I find that mineral oil or a good gun oil is fine. People advise against WD 40, but I see nothing wrong with it. I've used it on fine shotguns for years. Dont forget what the brand stands for------ WD= water displacement. Very Best, JohnQuote:
Originally Posted by stonehenge
I'll throw my .0003 cnets worth in ( that's two cents adjusted for inflation );)
I've fooled with guns, knives, and shiny metal for the better part of 60 years. Whatever you can get that will keep the air and water off the metal will prevent oxidation. WD-40 has worked for me as has 70Weight motor oil and "gun" grease. I've even used boiled linseed oil on steel.
I use TR3 on a lot of stuff. It polishes and leaves a really hard coating on what you just polished. I bought an old trombone for my son to learn on. I shined that puppy up with TR3 and it has held up very well. It does wear off where in the areas he handles it but it lasts longer than wax and is a heck of a lot easier to clean up than clear lacquer. I realize a trombone is long ways off from a razor, but bare polished brass will tarnish as you look at it. Polished steel can too.
Lately I've been using a product called QUICK RELEASE. I got it to oil up old switchblade and push button knives. It also oils the joints on my pocket knives and keeps the blades looking good while they're in my pocket (I don't carry stainless steel knives). I put a couple of drops on my razors that aren't in the rotation and smear it around on the blades and it has done a great job.
Quick Release Oil, Oil for Life
I should have asked this question 6 months ago. All the responses once again prove there is more than one way to skin a cat and the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. Thanks to all and keep those answers coming.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wullie
Larry
I use Camellia oil, on occasion, but it rarely stays on my razors for more than two weeks.
The oil I use most frequently on my straight razors, however, is Tuff-Glide. The needle applicator on the small bottle is especially good for lubricating the pivot on the razor.
I don't think anyone doubts that WD-40 has rust prevention properties. I've used it with success on knives and axes. I think the concern is that the oil isn't very face friendly, so if there are any trace amounts that somehow make it to your face it can be a source of irritation.
Personally, I use mineral oil and have had no problems. But most of my razors don't sit for prolonged periods of time either....
I agree with Ryan and mineral oil is GOOD STUFF MAYNARD!!
The Quick Release is used mostly on my "museum queens".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan82
Ryan: This is not directed at you personally..
I have noted the same response many times in the past, and it amazes me that it is only directed at WD-40 never any other oil, there seems to be a concensus that WD-40 is bad for your face and any other lubricant and anti-rust formula is not... Instead of arguing the point I would suggest that like every other lubricant or anti rust formula you apply to a razor that you might be smart enough to rinse the blade under hot water before actually shaving with it...
But here is some info
What does WD-40 contain?
While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents.
Wonder how safe some of the others are ???? I noted that ONLY the WD-40 was singled out, not the Tuf-Glide nor the TR3 nor the QuickRelease or the Birchwood Casey or even the Hoppe's
Just some Rust tests
Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage
The Gun Zone -- Corrosion Test
GunTech : Gun Cleaning Clinic: Knowing the Limits of Rust Preventatives - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS
I use Gun Oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by lfloyd
Don't ask me for info to back this up, but google it.
FWIW, years ago, pre-internet, there was a NRA Mag. editor by the name of Ed Harris. He is the person behind Ed's Red Bore Cleaner. I've been using it for years.
Anyway, he wrote an article against using WD-40 saying it actually attacks metal. It can also harm the scales on a razor. I don't use it for anything except penetrating rusted parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crotalus
From Ed Harris: ca 1990
Yes to all of your previous questions. Break Free is a better cleaner
for encrusted, hardened fouling on automatic weapon mechanisms than
your run of the mill bore cleaners. It will neutralize chlorate primer
residue and black powder - this is part of the specification, becausew
Mil-L-63460 is used as cannon bore clenaer and all artillery rounds
have blackpowder igniters. It is not particularly effective on heavy
metal fouling, but dissolves powder fouling better than anything. It
is also safer to use than WD-40, which caused problems with stress
corrosion cracking of stainless when I was at Ruger, and we wouldn't
have the stuff in the shop. WD-40 is bad news and I would not use it!
Break Free is better than anything else I have used in protecting
weapons against salt water exposure. I have used it to coat M16 rifles
and M60 MGs which were subjected to complete saltwater immersion, and
nothing else is even close. When they adopted CLP they replaced 27
different FSN's with this material. It works, and is worth the price
to me.
What this actually means is that WD-40 was being used as a cutting oil by Ruger when cutting barrel twists, a use that it was NOT designed for, this statement gained legs and has morphed over the years...
I was running Fidonet on the Psychlo Empire BBS at the time Ed made this statement and it came across the Firearms Forum.
Just screwing around with Google and WD-40 has made me realize that it is one of the most controversial products out there, so further discussion is pretty much useless...
There are just to many pro and con statements to sort through
I have used it on razors for years, I have no rust issues and haven't had any issues with scales, if you are dumb enough to spray it on un-treated wood scales then that's on you :)
From most of the reading I did, it seems that Mineral Oil is a compontent, the percentage varies depending on where you read the info..
As glen probably found out from his google (or already knew) and some of you may know and as stated above the WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement so it, as glen knows from use, will prevent and break up rust (the by product of metal oxidation usually because of water) but shouldn't ever be used as a lubricant or protection.
Perfect example is moving parts....working in a bike shop ppl used it on their chains ALL the time and in the long run it does more harm then good on moving parts.
As for the OP I use camomile oil and wipe off and reapply one every month to 6 weeks
A question for WD-40 and RPF users, and those who use Camellia oils and other mineral oils to protect your razors:-
has anyone used this on razors with etching and/or goldwash?
If so how did it perform?
I personally use Ren Wax and don´t have any problems with etching etc
I have wondered about the safety of WD-40 myself. However, a little soap and water on the blade before using should take care of any issues. Just plain water will likely have little effect as WD stands for water displacement .As for myself, if Glen says it, I usually believe it. I just wish they would put the stuff in something easier to use than the spray can or pencil thing. Like a 3 in one oil, type applicator.
Have never seen any effect on gold wash from mineral oil Shane,It will slowly disolve the paint used in the tang stampings of some razors such as double ducks.
have never used camellia oil (tea tree oil) is actually pretty toxic stuff,I think is not a problem for our application tho.
Has anyone tried ballistol? I learned about it from Stefo. Subsequently I found out that this is what TI uses on its razors. I have been very happy with the results it gives me here in Florida and I suggest that others might also find it suitable.
I just found the site on it and I'll have to pick some up and give a try. Thanks for the tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by BanjoTom
You could use chain saw oil on a blade,or you can just dry the blade off and never have an issue.
This is not rocket science.
Speaking of protecting against rust: this web page is a bit interesting
Corrosion Prevention - Second Round
I know I'm late to the discussion, but is there any particular reason why no one has mentioned using petroleum jelly? I'm curious why a lighter viscosity oil is preferred? I picked up a tube with a flip-top, and the stuff is designed for skin care so no adverse effects if some manages to get past cleaning before using on your face. A dab on each side of the blade and a swipe with a piece of tp does the trick, and all for $3 for a couple years worth. I simply use another piece of tp to wipe it off and run it under hot water before stropping next. I personally wouldn't want my bathroom smelling like WD40 or gear oil, no matter how good they are at protecting. For another light-weight oil suggestion, how about Marvel Mystery Oil?
Will work fine,is also just mineral oil in a thicker form.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stonehenge
The same exact thing happened to me. I also had to use metal polish to clean the razor and I had to hone it again starting from bevel setting since rust was developed on the edge.
I still use camellia oil because I have a lot, but every 2-3 weeks I check the blades and if necessary re pass the oil.
I wouldn’t use camellia oil for long term rust prevention.
Thats exactly what i do, i buy a gallon of wd-40 liquid not a spray, and refill a small sewing machine oil container, that way you only put the stuff on the blade and not spray it all over the place.Quote:
Originally Posted by mackie
I have been using the food grade mineral oil (i.e., laxative type from the drug stores) for SRs that I store for months. It works great and comes off easy under running water.