Thread: Camellia Oil Becoming Sticky On Blade

I have noticed that the Camellia oil I apply to my razors becomes quite tacky on the razors I haven't used for a while. I usually wind up applying a small amount of alcohol to a cloth and degreasing the blade. What if anything am I doing wrong and is there an alternative oil out there that won't become tacky over time?

Larry

I used camellia oil on my razor collection a few years ago and was quick to regret it. I left a sticky staining residue in spots where it tended to pool a bit and ran off of other spots on the razors, leaving them to rust with no protection.

I actually had to use metal polish to remove the stains from some razors. The advise that led to me try camellia oil I now consider bad advice and don't recommend anyone using it. I now prefer just wiping with a new silicon cloth but I understand a good quality oil that IS NOT a fruit or vegetable product should also work.

I use Tuf Glide and/or Ren wax.

Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Originally Posted by Joed

I use Tuf Glide and/or Ren wax.

Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Any thoughts on Hoppes gun lube?

I'm with JoeD. Ren Wax is a great product to help protect your blades. Just remember....when applying, wipe ALL of your finger prints off the blade first. I usually hold the tang, apply to the blade and let dry. Then reverse.

If you Google "Rust Prevention Test" you are going to find a ton of actual tests that have been done with near every product you can name, some are very good, but what I noted was the one that keeps scoring very high in every test (never the best) by every super product...

Good ole' WD-40 I have been using it on razors for years, and it seems to work just fine even on the razors that only get used once per year and sit in a sealed case... I have never had an issue with it damaging scales, and it takes just a spray on some TP and a simple wipe to be done...


ps: To be honest here I have never tried anything else, I found what works for me have never had an issue so I never experimented farther..

Larry,

Camellia oil is a vegetable oil and will, like other vegetable oils, polymerize over time. This polymerization is the same process that enables oil paints to harden. The vaunted camellia rust preventing properties likely depend on regular and frequent re-application and wiping, which are done before the oil ages enough to get gummy. So you can use it if you have a regimen for frequently tending your razors treated with it. A friend who has made Japanese swords actually prefers clove oil for this anti-rusting treatment, but then again they who own those treasured blades don't just let them sit around without regular wiping. Use a petroleum based oil for long term parking. Synthetics work too, as I use a Birchwood Casey synthetic oil on some of my guns to good effect.

"wipe on, wipe off", Bruce

Originally Posted by Bruce

Larry,

Camellia oil is a vegetable oil and will, like other vegetable oils, polymerize over time. This polymerization is the same process that enables oil paints to harden. The vaunted camellia rust preventing properties likely depend on regular and frequent re-application and wiping, which are done before the oil ages enough to get gummy. So you can use it if you have a regimen for frequently tending your razors treated with it. A friend who has made Japanese swords actually prefers clove oil for this anti-rusting treatment, but then again they who own those treasured blades don't just let them sit around without regular wiping. Use a petroleum based oil for long term parking. Synthetics work too, as I use a Birchwood Casey synthetic oil on some of my guns to good effect.

"wipe on, wipe off", Bruce

Bruce, thanks for the technical side of the answer and your own observations. My humble collection now has to be brought out cleaned and retreated. I'll try some of the different answers, tag and re-bag the blades and check periodically for results.

Larry

Originally Posted by stonehenge

I used camellia oil on my razor collection a few years ago and was quick to regret it. I left a sticky staining residue in spots where it tended to pool a bit and ran off of other spots on the razors, leaving them to rust with no protection.

I actually had to use metal polish to remove the stains from some razors. The advise that led to me try camellia oil I now consider bad advice and don't recommend anyone using it. I now prefer just wiping with a new silicon cloth but I understand a good quality oil that IS NOT a fruit or vegetable product should also work.

DITTO !!!! I find that mineral oil or a good gun oil is fine. People advise against WD 40, but I see nothing wrong with it. I've used it on fine shotguns for years. Dont forget what the brand stands for------ WD= water displacement. Very Best, John

I'll throw my .0003 cnets worth in ( that's two cents adjusted for inflation )

I've fooled with guns, knives, and shiny metal for the better part of 60 years. Whatever you can get that will keep the air and water off the metal will prevent oxidation. WD-40 has worked for me as has 70Weight motor oil and "gun" grease. I've even used boiled linseed oil on steel.

I use TR3 on a lot of stuff. It polishes and leaves a really hard coating on what you just polished. I bought an old trombone for my son to learn on. I shined that puppy up with TR3 and it has held up very well. It does wear off where in the areas he handles it but it lasts longer than wax and is a heck of a lot easier to clean up than clear lacquer. I realize a trombone is long ways off from a razor, but bare polished brass will tarnish as you look at it. Polished steel can too.

Lately I've been using a product called QUICK RELEASE. I got it to oil up old switchblade and push button knives. It also oils the joints on my pocket knives and keeps the blades looking good while they're in my pocket (I don't carry stainless steel knives). I put a couple of drops on my razors that aren't in the rotation and smear it around on the blades and it has done a great job.
Quick Release Oil, Oil for Life