Thread: Camellia Oil Becoming Sticky On Blade

Originally Posted by Wullie

I'll throw my .0003 cnets worth in ( that's two cents adjusted for inflation )

I've fooled with guns, knives, and shiny metal for the better part of 60 years. Whatever you can get that will keep the air and water off the metal will prevent oxidation. WD-40 has worked for me as has 70Weight motor oil and "gun" grease. I've even used boiled linseed oil on steel.

I use TR3 on a lot of stuff. It polishes and leaves a really hard coating on what you just polished. I bought an old trombone for my son to learn on. I shined that puppy up with TR3 and it has held up very well. It does wear off where in the areas he handles it but it lasts longer than wax and is a heck of a lot easier to clean up than clear lacquer. I realize a trombone is long ways off from a razor, but bare polished brass will tarnish as you look at it. Polished steel can too.

Lately I've been using a product called QUICK RELEASE. I got it to oil up old switchblade and push button knives. It also oils the joints on my pocket knives and keeps the blades looking good while they're in my pocket (I don't carry stainless steel knives). I put a couple of drops on my razors that aren't in the rotation and smear it around on the blades and it has done a great job.
Quick Release Oil, Oil for Life

I should have asked this question 6 months ago. All the responses once again prove there is more than one way to skin a cat and the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. Thanks to all and keep those answers coming.

Larry

I use Camellia oil, on occasion, but it rarely stays on my razors for more than two weeks.

The oil I use most frequently on my straight razors, however, is Tuff-Glide. The needle applicator on the small bottle is especially good for lubricating the pivot on the razor.

I don't think anyone doubts that WD-40 has rust prevention properties. I've used it with success on knives and axes. I think the concern is that the oil isn't very face friendly, so if there are any trace amounts that somehow make it to your face it can be a source of irritation.

Personally, I use mineral oil and have had no problems. But most of my razors don't sit for prolonged periods of time either....

I agree with Ryan and mineral oil is GOOD STUFF MAYNARD!!

The Quick Release is used mostly on my "museum queens".

Originally Posted by Ryan82

I don't think anyone doubts that WD-40 has rust prevention properties. I've used it with success on knives and axes. I think the concern is that the oil isn't very face friendly, so if there are any trace amounts that somehow make it to your face it can be a source of irritation.

Personally, I use mineral oil and have had no problems. But most of my razors don't sit for prolonged periods of time either....

Ryan: This is not directed at you personally..

I have noted the same response many times in the past, and it amazes me that it is only directed at WD-40 never any other oil, there seems to be a concensus that WD-40 is bad for your face and any other lubricant and anti-rust formula is not... Instead of arguing the point I would suggest that like every other lubricant or anti rust formula you apply to a razor that you might be smart enough to rinse the blade under hot water before actually shaving with it...

But here is some info


What does WD-40 contain?

While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents.

Wonder how safe some of the others are ???? I noted that ONLY the WD-40 was singled out, not the Tuf-Glide nor the TR3 nor the QuickRelease or the Birchwood Casey or even the Hoppe's


Just some Rust tests

Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage

The Gun Zone -- Corrosion Test

GunTech : Gun Cleaning Clinic: Knowing the Limits of Rust Preventatives - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

Originally Posted by lfloyd

Any thoughts on Hoppes gun lube?

I use Gun Oil.

Don't ask me for info to back this up, but google it.

FWIW, years ago, pre-internet, there was a NRA Mag. editor by the name of Ed Harris. He is the person behind Ed's Red Bore Cleaner. I've been using it for years.

Anyway, he wrote an article against using WD-40 saying it actually attacks metal. It can also harm the scales on a razor. I don't use it for anything except penetrating rusted parts.

Originally Posted by Crotalus

Don't ask me for info to back this up, but google it.

FWIW, years ago, pre-internet, there was a NRA Mag. editor by the name of Ed Harris. He is the person behind Ed's Red Bore Cleaner. I've been using it for years.

Anyway, he wrote an article against using WD-40 saying it actually attacks metal. It can also harm the scales on a razor. I don't use it for anything except penetrating rusted parts.

From Ed Harris: ca 1990

Yes to all of your previous questions. Break Free is a better cleaner
for encrusted, hardened fouling on automatic weapon mechanisms than
your run of the mill bore cleaners. It will neutralize chlorate primer
residue and black powder - this is part of the specification, becausew
Mil-L-63460 is used as cannon bore clenaer and all artillery rounds
have blackpowder igniters. It is not particularly effective on heavy
metal fouling, but dissolves powder fouling better than anything. It
is also safer to use than WD-40, which caused problems with stress
corrosion cracking of stainless when I was at Ruger, and we wouldn't
have the stuff in the shop. WD-40 is bad news and I would not use it!
Break Free is better than anything else I have used in protecting
weapons against salt water exposure. I have used it to coat M16 rifles
and M60 MGs which were subjected to complete saltwater immersion, and
nothing else is even close. When they adopted CLP they replaced 27
different FSN's with this material. It works, and is worth the price
to me.


What this actually means is that WD-40 was being used as a cutting oil by Ruger when cutting barrel twists, a use that it was NOT designed for, this statement gained legs and has morphed over the years...

I was running Fidonet on the Psychlo Empire BBS at the time Ed made this statement and it came across the Firearms Forum.

Just screwing around with Google and WD-40 has made me realize that it is one of the most controversial products out there, so further discussion is pretty much useless...

There are just to many pro and con statements to sort through

I have used it on razors for years, I have no rust issues and haven't had any issues with scales, if you are dumb enough to spray it on un-treated wood scales then that's on you


From most of the reading I did, it seems that Mineral Oil is a compontent, the percentage varies depending on where you read the info..