Thread: Camellia Oil Becoming Sticky On Blade

As glen probably found out from his google (or already knew) and some of you may know and as stated above the WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement so it, as glen knows from use, will prevent and break up rust (the by product of metal oxidation usually because of water) but shouldn't ever be used as a lubricant or protection.

Perfect example is moving parts....working in a bike shop ppl used it on their chains ALL the time and in the long run it does more harm then good on moving parts.

As for the OP I use camomile oil and wipe off and reapply one every month to 6 weeks

A question for WD-40 and RPF users, and those who use Camellia oils and other mineral oils to protect your razors:-
has anyone used this on razors with etching and/or goldwash?
If so how did it perform?
I personally use Ren Wax and don´t have any problems with etching etc

I have wondered about the safety of WD-40 myself. However, a little soap and water on the blade before using should take care of any issues. Just plain water will likely have little effect as WD stands for water displacement .As for myself, if Glen says it, I usually believe it. I just wish they would put the stuff in something easier to use than the spray can or pencil thing. Like a 3 in one oil, type applicator.

Have never seen any effect on gold wash from mineral oil Shane,It will slowly disolve the paint used in the tang stampings of some razors such as double ducks.
have never used camellia oil (tea tree oil) is actually pretty toxic stuff,I think is not a problem for our application tho.

Has anyone tried ballistol? I learned about it from Stefo. Subsequently I found out that this is what TI uses on its razors. I have been very happy with the results it gives me here in Florida and I suggest that others might also find it suitable.

Originally Posted by BanjoTom

Has anyone tried ballistol? I learned about it from Stefo. Subsequently I found out that this is what TI uses on its razors. I have been very happy with the results it gives me here in Florida and I suggest that others might also find it suitable.

I just found the site on it and I'll have to pick some up and give a try. Thanks for the tip.

You could use chain saw oil on a blade,or you can just dry the blade off and never have an issue.
This is not rocket science.

Speaking of protecting against rust: this web page is a bit interesting

Corrosion Prevention - Second Round

I know I'm late to the discussion, but is there any particular reason why no one has mentioned using petroleum jelly? I'm curious why a lighter viscosity oil is preferred? I picked up a tube with a flip-top, and the stuff is designed for skin care so no adverse effects if some manages to get past cleaning before using on your face. A dab on each side of the blade and a swipe with a piece of tp does the trick, and all for $3 for a couple years worth. I simply use another piece of tp to wipe it off and run it under hot water before stropping next. I personally wouldn't want my bathroom smelling like WD40 or gear oil, no matter how good they are at protecting. For another light-weight oil suggestion, how about Marvel Mystery Oil?

Will work fine,is also just mineral oil in a thicker form.