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Before you send them off for heat treatment, put your makers mark on them. You will need to do something to your Japanese style razor to help you flip it when stropping. Try it out and see how it...

With that big notch in the hollow at the heal of the blade...I wouldn't. I can't see a pivot hole...

Now, with the mocked up scales...how does it strop? How does it handle if you were to mock shave? These are all important parts of the design...

No, the 1/4" stock. I scribe center around the entire perimeter of a profiled blank before I start removing material for the blade or tang. I don't have a scribe designed for this (yet), so I use a...

Mocking up some scales is a good idea. YOu can then mock strop and shave to see just how it feels. Once I have a blank profiled, I mark center all the way around it. This gives you a reference for...

Believe it or not, once your bevel starts to get thin, your eye will see what the micrometer won't even show. Pay attention to keep the grind parallel to the spine though, this is rather important...

Don't bother with sanding all that much on the hollow as you will be really taking all that material away with the final grind...but that's the only part you don't have to worry about. Everything...

It's looking good, grind looks even from the profile pic.

Looks like a good rough out, now it needs the detail work. Is the pin hole big enough? Get all the grind marks out and finished to at least 400 grit. That grind line where the hollow meets the...

Just remember, sometimes you have to do hand work...you cant do it all by power tools...at least I can't as they work too fast for me sometimes.

You don't have to have tapered tang necessarily,...

I used the natural shape of the grinding wheel, that way you are keeping the hollow uniform. This way, when you are doing a final grind on the hollow you will be able to just add more pressure at...