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For your next project you might want to think about hollowing out that wedge a bit.
It doesn't have to be an awful lot, but you have a triangular wedge here, and as soon as the razor has been honed...

Looks close enough. An oven thermometer is a good idea, because they are dirt cheap, and 10 degrees can make a lot of difference during tempering. I'd try a slightly lower temperature setting next...

After quenching. However, you may need to grind away some crud first. There may be scale on the outside, and that would not skate a file. Sand / grind until you get to the shiny stuff. From then on...

The coffee can wasn't the best. My current approach works better, though it is the same in principle.
Basically, when you are heat treating, you want a nice, even, controllable heat source. Open...

Not entirely sure I agree that it would be the same as wootz. That depends on the type and amount of alloying elements. Without those dendritic strucutres, crucible steel is not wootz.

That setup looks nice. A couple of tips:

You'll notice it will take a long time to dry out. You can help that along by filling it with charcoal and lighting it, first time, don't force air through...

No absolutely. There is no harm in it. The only downside is you have to wait until a piece is annealed instead of taking it out of the box and sticking it in the fire for the purpose of forging....

You should anneal after forging. Annealing before forging will not do much because the forging process itself will leave the metal in a semi hardened state. The only way to have any knowledge about...

Keep in mind that this is only important if you are only going to use stock removal.
If you are going to forge, annealing up front will not do anything.

I quench it in oil and then agitate (move around) for a bit (say 10 to 20 seconds or so), then take it out and quench it in water the rest of the way. the water bit is not necessary from a heat...

You often read exact temperatures and times. That makes sense, because they measure those characteristics, and those temperatures / times are scientifically optimal. However, there is a relatively...

To be honest: don't overthink it.
The process is not anywhere near as sensitive that you would need a pyrometer or worry overly about the temperature of the oil. Just heat a bar of iron, quench it...

That depends. Most honers and makers go for 61HRc.
Personally, I think anything between 59 and 61 is great.

Keep in mind that what is stamped on the file may very well be just marketing.
I suspect it is generic high carbon tool steel, not actual crucible steel, kinda like how razors are sometimes stamped...