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It does not need to be wet dry.
In fact I've come to prefer the plain 'dry' paper. But make sure it is paper for sanding metal and not wood. The wood paper loses grit very easily which is not handy....

There is actually an option number 3. I'll see if I can find it.
Way before any of you were here, we had a restoration demi God named Vladsch.
He took pics of the engraving on an 8/8 W&B before he...

Thanks guys. It's great that people still read this thread :)
As for the gold wash: as soon as you start sanding or polishing, it will be gone.

Yes. See here for pics:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/gallery/18600-finished-last.html

The rot had made the blade so thing that the tip fell off :)
But it was only the toe, so I just made it...

Yes. Going up sooner than that only takes more time, because removing pitting at 80 grit is faster than removing pitting at 320 grit.
If you get rid of all the damage first, all the next grits are...

You can do it completely by hand, but then you best handsand to as high a grit as possible.
You can get sandpaper up to 2000 grit, and then there are the micro mesh pads that go up to several tens...

Nice pic. I was just going to ask if that was layered steel because of the texture of the steel. But then I noticed it was a tanto so I guess that answers my question.
Really nice looking steel.

Depends.

If I remove damage, then I sometimes use as much pressure as I think the razor can handle.
so a full wedge or quarter hollow is basically indestructable.
A full hollow is structurally...

After sanding for 10 hours on a blade using only your fingers, you'll probably find that using a sanding block / stick / device is a good idea after all.

I switched from hand to stick when I...

I thought it was Cr2O3?

anyway, yes you can get chromium oxide for cheap. I got a brick sized piece which is used to load polishing steel on a buffer wheel.
But the grit size is 15 micron instead...

Actually, WD-40 is an interesting idea.

I don't use water because that is very risky at lower grits.

With 240 or even 400 - 600 grit, you leave significant scratch lines that will grab water....

Those things look very useful indeed. I think I am going to have to give them a try.

Most of the time is spent on the low grit stages.
The 120 grit takes a long time to get rid of pitting and damage.
Then next grit takes a long time because the blade will be deeply scratched at...

You could, I suppose. In fact why don't you just try it out.
One thing I can imagine is that it would be very easy to put too much pressure on a full hollow.

Also for curved razor you might have...

I have a norton sized stone that I cut from a litography stone, which is lime I think.
It is flat, and it has the nice property that you can hit it with an edge withot damaging or blunting that...

Several people asked me to re-post my hand sanding guide, so here it is. Hopefully I've written it for the last time :)

The purpose of handsanding is to bring a blade back to a near perfect...