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What is important about this thread and the one that preceded it is how far the OP has come. Without anyone looking over his shoulder, he has created at least one perfect edge, and working on...

There is that old saw, It does not matter what the bevels looks like, just the edge is all that matters.

But…

In this case this razor had issues with chipping. The OP has removed a bit of metal...

Looks good, a very nice straight edge. Yes the 1um then the .03um then the .03um with paper to finish. Just a few laps on the .03 to set the stria then paper to polish.

Nice work.

Go back to the 8k and hone the chip out, should not take much. The edge is crumbling or you got some grit on the film or under.

Yea, get a roll of new tape, if your tape is old. If you feel the...

Personally, I believe smooth is more important than flat, and flat enough is plenty flat, especially with film.

The reason I flatten film substrate, is for better contact with the film for...

I did not see your other post. You can go to film after the 12k and use it as a finisher or after the 8k.

Film will leave a much finer and uniform stria pattern than a stone, so I usually drop...

Yes, much better, the edge looks nice and straight except for the one spot on the second to the last photo just short of the toe.

Yup, that is the gymnastics that Glen is always talking about....

Never tried that, might work. Wet & Dry is probably more abrasive.

The plate looks good, most of mine look like yours and work just fine.

No, that’s good. The flatter it is the better it will stick and the more material in contact with the edge.

That should work fine. But if you want is flat some 180 or 220 W&D on a cookie sheet and...

Yes, does look much better. You are getting the X stroke down, and now honing all the way to the edge, it can take some time to get it, and even harder to describe. Good work.

Move up and see if...

Smooth out the bevel on the pink 3um to straighten the edge, then move to the Green 1um and finish on the White .3um

Try the 8k but spend a little more time on the toe with some pressure, looks a lot better.

Here is the photo of the skew for the glass plate for the film, dont know why the PM would not let me...

Start your rolling x with the heel forward and put your index finger on the heel, keep the heel on the stone at least halfway across the stone.

Then swing the toe around and down towards the...

Some good work on this thread. PM me your address and I will send you some lapping film.

I have had good luck with film and chippy hard razors. It would be interesting to see what it would do on...

Looks like some funky steel at the toe and that you are still not honing all the toe as well as the rest of the blade. The rest of the blade looks good, but, still some chipping.

I would remove...

It does look better, but as you say, still not hitting the edge in some spots.

You can lightly draw a sharpie on the edge from heel to toe and that will ink the edge and down from the edge a few...

Yea, this is one of those razors that Glen talks about, where you should, first try to set a bevel, before you spend a lot of time in restoration.

On this razor, you would have seen the pitting on...

Looks better but, still some chipping, you might try adding another layer of tape to increase the angle at the edge, you will end up with a double bevel but it will straighten the edge.

And or...

You are not honing to the edge, Rolling X

Remove all the deep 4k stria. Ink…

You must remember that we are looking at chipping at high magnification and while the chipping looks bad it is a small percentage of the bevel, so very small chipping, very hard to see without...

Looks better, but stay on the 8k and see if it will hold an edge, it should come together rather quickly, don’t be afraid to joint and reset the edge.

By repeated jointing and re-setting you are...

It’s a bad steel issue, Spikes came in a variety of scales, the translucent and some white/ivory are cell rot candidates and the grinds are very thin, which is why they are great shavers. And any...

Looks like what I have seen from Cell Rot blades. Is this a cell rot victim? There seems to be similar pitting on the blade above the bevel.

You have to get to good steel, then re-set the bevel,...

The stria on the bevel looks good, but there is a lot of pitting at the toe and a ragged edge.

I would lightly joint it and reset the bevel on the 12k, see if the edge holds together. If not drop...

I would do a few more laps on the toe, either rolling X or a finger of pressure on the left side to clean up the stria in photo 4, at the toe, then move up.