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Yeah, I think that that is a big part of the reason that I've never tried it.

A finish carpenter friend constantly tells me, 'When you are about to do something on a table saw that seems like it...

I'm assuming that you were dressing the wheel on the back side since I can't see any other way. I've never tried that, but I've always wondered how doable and successful it would be.

That's weird, I can't say that I've ever checked the crown with a tensioned belt, but I do know that on my setup it does behave crowned.

If you're asking what I think that you're asking, you are trying to fit a cylinder (wheel) into a toroidal grove. Not a big deal at the roughing stage like you said. There are different ways of...

They look really nice John. I look forward to seeing them in hand.

I like the Blaze belts for hard steel and use them at 36 and 50 grit. I like the feel of aluminum oxide better and use them when most of the material is gone 60 grit and up, but they dull really...

They probably worked a 16 hour day, so that made it easier... Yeah right!

Did they skate a file after the quench? I've learned the hard way to always check that.

I thought of that same smith when John said 4 or 5 heats. There is another video of his where he talks about forging 2 gross of knife blades per day and a dozen was 13 to make up for grinding...

I think that the amount of mass directly behind the edge can have a lot of effect on the quench speed. I have not had issues with 1095 and canola, but I have only quenched thin sections with it.

I'd guess up to .08" or so would be thin enough, but I would also think that it would be easy enough to match the razor thickness pretty close.

I like to go up to ~ 150ºF with my quench oil, but...

Keep in mind that 1095 has a low hardenability, so any test pieces should be at about the same thickness as the thin part of your razor in order to cool fast enough.