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Thanks for the update.
Concerning the Wade & Butcher: a rule of thumb I try to adhere to is this: if 15 minutes of work don't complete the bevel, jump down to a coarser hone.

Here's some...

Yes, the D6E is a very good slurry builder.
No problem whatsoever using it, if you're without a dedicated nagura stone.

If you're just going to remove the scratch pattern from the DMT, you might as well jump straight to the coticule with water. It does that job better and faster than a Blue with water.
In fact, for a...

Regarding shaving armhair at the DMT 1200 grit level:
if you get a great edge in the end, I wouldn't bother. I personally never got great results, if I wasn't already at the "shave hairs"-level at...

No, with "fin" I'm just referring the finest outer part of the edge. The part that's affected by stropping, and under the right lighting conditions shows up as silver lining at the very edge....

Removing a frown, or heavy corrosion from an Ebay junker, perhaps?
I've done it a couple of times, and I thought JCitron was talking about something like that.
The technique you described, removing...

Jcitron,

If you "sawhoned" the bevel away, it will take many (an understatement, actually) laps to reestablish a new bevel. Somehow, doing a high amount of laps on a hone that's a bit to fine for...

If the DMT is properly broken in, I don't think so.
I have honed, rougly estimated, about 100 razors with a progression including a DMT D6E. Never encountered any overhoning issues.
It is possible...

I do a crude version of the HHT before leaving my DMT D6E.
However, I have noticed that many honers don't manage to get that degree of sharpness of the D6E.
Maybe it's because my DMT has seen so...