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I recently bought a cheap Shaving Factory DE razor and Derby blades at a local beauty supply store. I really like how it glides across my face but I can't get as close of a shave as I do with my Gillette Fusion. I have a fairly light beard, I usually shave 2-3 times a week. When I shave I like it to be baby smooth. Should I try a different blade or get a better razor first? Any recommendations?
Mark I don't know that razor so I can't speak to that but, Derby blades are very mild AFAIC. Feathers, Gillette Blues are two that are out now that I know are very keen, and known to give a BBS shave. There are others, and someone will be along with more recommendations. A blade sampler pack is a good idea too.
Never thought much of the Derby blades either. Most suppliers have sampler packs. Tried one cheap Chinese DE and it was below par on every level compared to the Edwin Jaeger I had at the time.
I never liked Derby blades either. I swapped to Astra Superior Platinum early on and that's all I've ever used since.
Did you know there are less aggressive and more aggressive DE razors? Also known as open and closed comb. My Gillette (open comb) is much more aggressive than my Mühle R 89 (closed comb). I've attached pictures of them both.
I think the razor you have is a closed comb which is less aggressive.
You might like to try an open comb razor; you can get vintage ones really cheap, mine cost 10 bucks.
Attachment 189086
Attachment 189087
DE shaving has a little more of a learning curve compared to 3-5 blade cartridges. The results are fantastic, and well worth the time invested.
Are you doing multiple pass shaves with your new razor? Any special shave prep?
A large part of DE shaving for me was becoming familiar with the new razor, razor cutting angle, finding a blade that worked well with my razor, and paying a lot of attention during my shaves.
If you're missing spots currently, why?
Once you get that nailed down for any problem spots you'll start to be smooth as ever.
Enjoy the journey!
Hello Mark and welcome to SRP.
What is your pre shave preparation?
What soap do you use, brush etc.
Welcome to SRP. Now throw out your multi blade razor and clear your mind. You'll need great prep and as already mentioned shaving with a DE requires more than one pass. First establish which way your grain grows, then one pass WTG, rinse re-lather then second pass XTG. For now I'd stop there untill you've mastered that. I'd stick with Derby blades initially, at the start you're too inexperienced to tell which blade is best. When you get more confident you could try an ATG pass which should leave you with a really smooth face. Throughout use little or no pressure otherwise you'll cut yourself and give yourself razor burn. Learn the angle for your razor when it starts to cut hairs. Finally, check you've assembled the razor correctly if it's a 3 piece it's easy to get the base plate upside down!
Thanks for the welcome guys. To get the close shave I like I use 2+ passes, wtg, atg and then I feel for rough spots. I usually shave after a warm shower. I currently use Neutragena Shave cream from a tube, but I am experimenting with a brush and shaving soap.
I've been DE shaving for 2-3 months now. IMO it is very difficult to beat a fusion for closeness. AFAIK The way the fusion works is to stretch the hair and cut, effectively cutting BELOW the hair line, which results in all kinds of skin problems. The DE cuts at the hair line which is more suitable for most people. Shaving foam from a can has all sorts of harsh chemicals.
What I recommend is, always remind yourself to use a light touch. Rinse with lots of water and reapply the lather between each pass. If you miss a patch, don't go over it with no lather, get it on the next pass until you get more experience. Use an alum block. Don't chase the bbs, it find you when you're ready.
Shaving 2 or 3 times a week I would do 3 passes and a touch up pass. WTG XTG and ATG, during each pass you are cutting the hair shorter each time but not removing it completly, save the whiskers for the next pass. It is your final touch up pass that you remove anything that's left.
+1 on the blade sampler pack,
Also as mentioned the Edwin Jagger razor is a good performing razor and its not that expensive, and if you decide its not not for you, its easy to resell without losing much if anything at all.
My recommendation would be
1) better razor
2) better razor blades
3) and a better shave soap.
I'd get Merkur 37C or 34C HD first, then get feather or gilette or polsilver since those are the blades most people would agree are good and after get a nice bowl of Tabac/Loccitane shaving soap. That investment shouldnt cost more than 100$ and it will settle you for 3-4 months!
After those 3-4 months id get Muhle R41 and give it a shot because it is the most thorough razor there is! Also by that time you will need a new refill of tabac!
What brush are you using BTW?Quote:
Originally Posted by mark9765
I have found that starting slowly WTG for first pass. Lather then XTG for second pass. Two passes does plenty well for my upper face. For my neck I have to lather a third time and go ATG. Plenty of good whipped shave soap/cream. A good aftershave to help the skin heal and moisturize.Quote:
Originally Posted by Raol
Don't be afraid to experiment with different blades, different products and different combinations of products. Just relax and enjoy the shave. Each person has their own "combination" and you just have to find yours.
Feel free to ask as many questions as you need to. The members here have an amazing shared knowledge. If you can't find an answer here, I doubt you will find the answer anywhere.
I would also suggest trying some other blades, however good technique really helps stick with what you are doing and also remember the blade will not last as long as a cartridge multi blade it will need changing about every 3/4 shaves which for you could be a few weeks.
I've had very good results with the Gillete 7 o'clock Sharp-Edge (yellow pack). Also good luck with the Astra super platinum. But, more importantly, good face prep and a quality soap/good lather. Good luck!
One of the sharpest blades there are on the market are Feather and Kai so be sure to give them a go also!
Feather blades are about as sharp as they get; not sure that is the best thing to use for a 2-3 shave a week beard. I too have fallen under the spell of Astra blades which are consistent, smooth shaving and sort of in the middle regarding aggressiveness. Excellent place for you to start, I think, with any razor.
A Muhle R41 razor is a fantastic and very aggressive shaver, like shaving with a straight, demanding some experience and a lot of focus to avoid trouble. Not sure a Muhle R41 will take you where you want to go. There are plenty of razors (new and used/vintage) that shave according to the level of aggression you want and they do not cost a chin and a cheek. My first DE was a Merkur open comb #41 1904-Classic, a mild/medium aggressive razor, it is a reproduction of the old Gillette. My beard is coarse, wants daily shaves (with a DE) and this razor + Astra blades is still one of my faves. Amazon.com: Merkur "1904" Classic Safety Razor - Open-#41- Made in Germany: Health & Personal Care.
Merkur also sells a similar version (#42 - Amazon.com: Merkur "1904" Safety Razor 42C: Health & Personal Care) with a closed comb.
Good luck tuning in your razor and blades. Lots of choices and almost as many flea markets to find $5 deals on old razors.
I ordered a sample pack of blades and some Old Taylor shaving cream. I have worked on my shave angle and my shaves are a lot better. Thanks for the input.
TBH I use 1 feather razor per shave because I've found that on the 2nd shave it's sharpness reduces drasticaly!Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMoo
