Thread: DE Newbie

I recently bought a cheap Shaving Factory DE razor and Derby blades at a local beauty supply store. I really like how it glides across my face but I can't get as close of a shave as I do with my Gillette Fusion. I have a fairly light beard, I usually shave 2-3 times a week. When I shave I like it to be baby smooth. Should I try a different blade or get a better razor first? Any recommendations?

Mark I don't know that razor so I can't speak to that but, Derby blades are very mild AFAIC. Feathers, Gillette Blues are two that are out now that I know are very keen, and known to give a BBS shave. There are others, and someone will be along with more recommendations. A blade sampler pack is a good idea too.

Never thought much of the Derby blades either. Most suppliers have sampler packs. Tried one cheap Chinese DE and it was below par on every level compared to the Edwin Jaeger I had at the time.

I never liked Derby blades either. I swapped to Astra Superior Platinum early on and that's all I've ever used since.

Did you know there are less aggressive and more aggressive DE razors? Also known as open and closed comb. My Gillette (open comb) is much more aggressive than my Mühle R 89 (closed comb). I've attached pictures of them both.

I think the razor you have is a closed comb which is less aggressive.

You might like to try an open comb razor; you can get vintage ones really cheap, mine cost 10 bucks.

DE shaving has a little more of a learning curve compared to 3-5 blade cartridges. The results are fantastic, and well worth the time invested.

Are you doing multiple pass shaves with your new razor? Any special shave prep?

A large part of DE shaving for me was becoming familiar with the new razor, razor cutting angle, finding a blade that worked well with my razor, and paying a lot of attention during my shaves.

If you're missing spots currently, why?
Once you get that nailed down for any problem spots you'll start to be smooth as ever.

Enjoy the journey!

Hello Mark and welcome to SRP.
What is your pre shave preparation?
What soap do you use, brush etc.

Welcome to SRP. Now throw out your multi blade razor and clear your mind. You'll need great prep and as already mentioned shaving with a DE requires more than one pass. First establish which way your grain grows, then one pass WTG, rinse re-lather then second pass XTG. For now I'd stop there untill you've mastered that. I'd stick with Derby blades initially, at the start you're too inexperienced to tell which blade is best. When you get more confident you could try an ATG pass which should leave you with a really smooth face. Throughout use little or no pressure otherwise you'll cut yourself and give yourself razor burn. Learn the angle for your razor when it starts to cut hairs. Finally, check you've assembled the razor correctly if it's a 3 piece it's easy to get the base plate upside down!

Thanks for the welcome guys. To get the close shave I like I use 2+ passes, wtg, atg and then I feel for rough spots. I usually shave after a warm shower. I currently use Neutragena Shave cream from a tube, but I am experimenting with a brush and shaving soap.

I've been DE shaving for 2-3 months now. IMO it is very difficult to beat a fusion for closeness. AFAIK The way the fusion works is to stretch the hair and cut, effectively cutting BELOW the hair line, which results in all kinds of skin problems. The DE cuts at the hair line which is more suitable for most people. Shaving foam from a can has all sorts of harsh chemicals.

What I recommend is, always remind yourself to use a light touch. Rinse with lots of water and reapply the lather between each pass. If you miss a patch, don't go over it with no lather, get it on the next pass until you get more experience. Use an alum block. Don't chase the bbs, it find you when you're ready.
Shaving 2 or 3 times a week I would do 3 passes and a touch up pass. WTG XTG and ATG, during each pass you are cutting the hair shorter each time but not removing it completly, save the whiskers for the next pass. It is your final touch up pass that you remove anything that's left.

+1 on the blade sampler pack,

Also as mentioned the Edwin Jagger razor is a good performing razor and its not that expensive, and if you decide its not not for you, its easy to resell without losing much if anything at all.