I’m about 50 shaves in with a straight razor, finally taking the plunge after 45 years of traditional wet shaving with brush, soap, and DE razors. I’ve avoided asking the usual newbie questions that have been asked over and over, but took the answers I found here and applied them.
I have a few observations that those of you who have been shaving for a long time with a straight will probably think to be obvious, but I post them with the hope that they might be helpful to those just starting.
Most issues are from my technique, not the razor.
Assuming the razor is properly honed by someone who knows what they’re doing, and stropped properly, any issues about the razor ‘sticking’ or other issues stem from my technique, not the razor. The first one, which I discovered early on is I was making a lather which worked well for DEs, somewhat too thick, and not sufficiently hydrated for a straight razor shave. And the second is something I should know something about…
Pressure and angle
Yes, I know it’s 101. In 45 years of traditional wet shaving with a brush, soap, and DE, I’ve helped several of my friends get into traditional wet shaving with a DE. The thing I emphasize to them is a light pressure and maintaining a proper angle. I had to laugh at myself when I discovered the reason my face felt a bit ‘raw’ after a couple of shaves with the straights. I discovered that my pressure was a bit too heavy and my angle a bit too steep. Had to laugh.
A good razor helps
I started with typical ‘beginner’s’ razors. A Ralph Aust 5/8 from Lynn, and a Livi Grifetto. They were good choices on which to learn the basics. After about a month, I worked up the courage to reach out to Max Sprecher, and I’m fortunate that I was able to get a few of his masterpieces.
The first time I was able to achieve a comfortable 3-pass shave was with an 8/8 Max Sprecher Spanish Point. Not a ‘beginner’s’ razor, I know, but I had absolutely no problem with it. In fact, the first time I completed a three-pass straight razor shave, and the first near-BBS shave with a straight was with his razors. I know there are other great razors out there, and I’ve only stuck my toe into the vintage world, but his razors have me spoiled. The Robert Williams I was able to get, and the Butch Harner/ggsixgun collaboration are wonderful razors and have given me really good shaves. But the shaves I get with Max’s razors are unsurpassed.
I can get away with a drier, ‘fluffier’ lather with a DE.
More care is required with a straight, to make sure the lather is properly hydrated so that the glide helps in the shave. I’ve got a ton of ‘artisanal’ soaps that work great with the DE, including a few that are heavy tallow soaps. I have to hydrate the heck out of them to have them work well with the straight razor. I much prefer my beloved Italian soaps, especially SMN, XPEC, SV, and Nuàvia. And I’ve rediscovered Tabac.
On fear and going slowly
I used to be too scared even to watch a straight razor video. It just looked so dangerous. I’ve been shaving with Feather blades, both DE and SE, almost exclusively since they were released to the American market, so a few years ago I figured, well, a Feather DX shavette and an AC blade would be a good ‘introduction’ to straight razor shaving. Wrong. Nicks, weepers, and small cuts put me off. I so wish I had started with a good straight.
I took Lynn’s advice from his videos to go slowly, and Obie has been so helpful, as have the posts and wikis here, and after a little while the fear went away. Shave after shave, the ‘fluency’ with the razor increased little by little. I’m nowhere near competent yet, but I can get a really good, near BBS shave with the straight and a little touchup with a DE. At the beginning, it was a partial pass with a straight, and the rest of the shave with a DE, now it’s 2 1/2 passes with the straight, and some minor touchup with the DE. I’m in no rush.
One thing I have to avoid is comparing my beginning straight razor shaves to the really good DE shaves I have been getting almost effortlessly for years. It’s been so long ago that I learned to shave with a DE, but I know there was a learning curve, and my shaves were not optimal. Why should this be different? Patience is indeed a virtue.
And despite the fear factor, I’ve yet to draw blood, save for a tiny nick on my 2nd shave.
I like the whole process
Stropping, in particular, is very cool.
This community is a wonderful resource
I have learned so much from the posts, the wikis, the sharing on this community, and I want to express my sincere gratitude again.
Thanks for listening, and for all your help and support.
