Shaving with the Big Boys

I have been using straights now for about two months. This includes some time on a Feather AC as well. Before straights I have been using DEs for over ten years, so I have many years of 'serious' shaving experience. Most of the straights I have are in the 5/8-6/8 range and one in particular, a Rodgers 6/8 is by far my favorite. It is really easy for me to get a great shave from this razor. Of course, just like the rest of you I have acquired a bad case of RAD, so I have several razors in the hands of Glen being readied for their new life.

I have a few of questions:

-- I've got one 'advanced' straight, a WB 'Barbers Only' 7/8. I have been struggling to get a good shave with this razor even though I know it is sharp and well honed (it was restored by KenRup and you can view it in 'Razors' under WB 'Barbers Only' resto). This morning I kind of played with it on my arm a bit and found that the 'sweets spot' for this razor, seems to me at least, to be more than a 30 degree angle. Is this common with this type of blade? This thing is HUGE, not only because it is a 7/8 almost 8/8 but because these are just large razors. Has this been my problem all along with this razor? Is this one of the reasons why one needs a bit more experience to really appreciate such an instrument?

--I know that many experienced shavers seem to prefer the wider blades, 6/8 and above. What are the advantages of wider blades for these experienced shavers?

-- I have found with my years on a DE and with just my couple of months on straights that a DE will give a quicker shave (by this I mean that I will get a better one pass shave with a DE). However, my straights give me a smoother shave (my skin just feels better). Is this common, or is this a technique issue on my part that will start to adjust itself as I get more experience? This is somewhat true with my Feather AC as well. It gives almost a BBS shave on the first pass, and on the smooth scale it fits in between a DE and regular straight.



I have many other questions, but I will start with these.

Thanks,
Tod

Welcome to SRP, Tod.

I have had two 7/8 razors so far, and I find them awkward to use. I like 6/8 razors most. But this is down to personal preference, and you will find many different opinions on this subject. 6/8 blades for me are an ideal compromise between manoeuvrability and the ability to carry lather. I have tried everything north of 3/8, and the small blades need wiping too often for my liking, whereas I find the 7/8 unwieldy.

I also used to use a DE (and still do when travelling). Given the right blades (I prefer Personna), I get good to excellent results quickly, i.e. in about half the time I need with a straight. This is mainly owed to the fact that you cannot really cut yourself with a DE, and need to pay a lot less attention to proper blade angle and skin stretching. The shaves with a straight do last longer, though, and my skin also feels better.

Any questions, keep asking.

Regards,
Robin

Hi Tod,

I am also on a learning curve with this size blade, I've a 7/8 TI, and have had similar experience but getting better.
I've done some clacs on spine distance from skin and there is a 2mm greater distance at 30 degrees, I'm wondering if unconsciously I could be misjudging the angle and need to practice and just be guided by the feel of the sweet spot.
I've been recently advised by other members not to get to hung up about the 30 degrees, and I think there is an intuitive tendancy to flatten out the angle with the 7/8 especialy on the chin.

As for size I think it's just preference, with me anyway I like the weight and feel, it's as though the razor need less help from me.

Best of luck

Joey

With regards to the angle, I sometimes feel like I'm shaving at a greater angle with larger (and thicker) blades because the spine is farther from my face than a smaller blade's spine would be at the same angle. I don't really worry too much about the angle I use (though I do keep it in control) so long as the razor is cutting well and I don't get any after-shave irritation.

With size, as noted above, it's all about personal preference. I like big blades because I find them pleasing to look at and the weight makes shaving feel effortless. But, if I had to shave with the same blade every day, I would probably want a 6/8 (+/- 1/16) because they are easier to manuver. I find there is a more notable difference in shaving as the grind changes. I think a thicker grind is easier to learn on; the stiffer blades seem to be more forgiving of errors in shave prep and techinque. But, once you can get a good shave with a full hollow, you should be able to get a good shave with anything, and starting with a full hollow will make you improve your prep and technique faster (since they are harder to start with they force you up the learning curve faster).

When it comes to comparing to a DE, I can throw some water on my face, do a WTG pass with a SS and look presentable in about five minutes. I could just do a WTG with a straight and get the same results, but it would take more time. I've never gone ATG or XTG with a DE... because if I'm going to take the time to really shave I'm going to use a straight (so I can't compare closeness XTG). I don't mind the time or effort that goes into shaving with a straight because I find the whole thing quite enjoyable.

Those are just my thoughts and opinions, but I hope they help.

I've got quite a few big blades in the 8/8 and larger size and I like to shave with them sometimes. I also have the more common 5 and 6/8 sizes and even a few 4/8. The smaller blades are like a sports car compared to a truck with the larger. I really don't know about blade angle from a scientific standpoint. I know what works when I put the blade to my face. I do get a smoother shave with a straight than I did with a DE. With my usual Merkur Slant and Feather blade I would get weepers sometimes and if I wasn't careful some irritation. I haven't shaved with anything but a straight in over a year and I can't see wasting a shave on anything else. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

With my usual Merkur Slant...

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Ah. The infamous Merkur Slant. Combining all the disadvantages of a DE with those of an open blade. Stellar stuff, if your idea of fun is shooting yourself in the foot. :rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BeBerlin

Welcome to SRP, Tod.

I have had two 7/8 razors so far, and I find them awkward to use. I like 6/8 razors most. But this is down to personal preference, and you will find many different opinions on this subject. 6/8 blades for me are an ideal compromise between manoeuvrability and the ability to carry lather. I have tried everything north of 3/8, and the small blades need wiping too often for my liking, whereas I find the 7/8 unwieldy.

I also used to use a DE (and still do when travelling). Given the right blades (I prefer Personna), I get good to excellent results quickly, i.e. in about half the time I need with a straight. This is mainly owed to the fact that you cannot really cut yourself with a DE, and need to pay a lot less attention to proper blade angle and skin stretching. The shaves with a straight do last longer, though, and my skin also feels better.

Any questions, keep asking.


Regards,
Robin

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Can't cut yourself with a DE? Check out some of the posts at B&B har,har.

I agree the 6/8s to me is the perfect blade for shaving. I've pretty much used them all and enjoy them all but when it comes down to it I'll take a 5/8s or 6/8s any day.

To Holli4pirating,
Regarding the 6/8 being the preference I know what you mean.
My razor I know will always give me a bbs shave is my stainless dovo 6/8.
It's realy trippy how different razors have their own personality, even the same size and steel.
All said there is something about the bigger blades that's irresistable especially the feel. I to like the look of them.
Unless you're into str8's, it can't be explained.

Joey

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Can't cut yourself with a DE? Check out some of the posts at B&B har,har.

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You know what they say in the higher echelons of technology: Make it idiot-proof, and someone will make a better idiot.

Interesting questions that made me think - which I haven't done much of lately - with respect to my technique.

First, I don't think there is any such thing as an "advanced" straight. I've had little known brand names that shaved as well as popular brands depending on the hone job and condition.

Second, after a while - for me at least, I don't consciously pay attention to the angle - it's either optimal or it's not and I adjust accordingly - regardless of the razor size, etc. It's almost an unconscious thing. I don't know when that started happening. I just started to pay attention to what was happening at the surface of my skin - and that's pretty much all I worry about. That reminds me of when my father was teaching me to drive in Manhattan. He said "just pay attention to the front of your car, and go to the open space - don't worry about anything else..."

I like all sizes of blades. I think many like bigger blades because of the heft. The momentum they have [I]can[I] make shaving seem easier. I think grind has more to do with this though. If I'm shaving every day, that means I'm really just shaving stubble. In that case I like a hollow ground 5/8 or otherwise "light" razor. If it's been a day or two then the big boys feel more appropriate. This is a personal choice thing. See what works for you. Try a bunch of different blade styles before dropping a lot of money in one direction.

I started traditional wet shaving with a DE and used it for about 3 months before I switched to straights. I got pretty good at it, but never got anything close to what I can do with a straight. I've used my DE so infrequently that my technique with this tool is pretty much gone. I'm not "master", but I can get a very decent shave with a 1.5 pass straight shave now in about 5 minutes - if I have to. One stroke WTG, then one XTG in the same spot. I hit each section of face this way, then do a southward pass under the chin/neck; relather and go S/N. Done

Keep at it and you get better. Practice, etc. Enjoy

Sorry for rambling :o

Jordan

Sound info, advice. You didn't ramble!!!
Joey

All great information, keep 'em coming. :tu

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoeyGargano

Hi Tod,

I am also on a learning curve with this size blade, I've a 7/8 TI, and have had similar experience but getting better.
I've done some clacs on spine distance from skin and there is a 2mm greater distance at 30 degrees, I'm wondering if unconsciously I could be misjudging the angle and need to practice and just be guided by the feel of the sweet spot.
I've been recently advised by other members not to get to hung up about the 30 degrees, and I think there is an intuitive tendancy to flatten out the angle with the 7/8 especialy on the chin.

As for size I think it's just preference, with me anyway I like the weight and feel, it's as though the razor need less help from me.

Best of luck

Joey

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I'm starting to see this now. When you start shaving it seems you want to reduce the angle because you of fear of cutting yourself. Now that I've gained some confidence I'm starting to find the angle that lets the razor do the work. On the Big Boys it just LOOKS like a more upright angle because you've got a thicker blade. I think my initial mistake was starting with the Feather in which you almost lay the blade on your face.

Tod

My favorite zone is between 6/8 and 7/8, with 13/16 being ideal. For extra hollow blades like the TI's, I like the 7/8's as I think the longer hollow flexes just a bit more to make my shave just a little bit closer.

As regards angle, I am not a stickler for 30 degrees either. I like the "just a little off flat on your skin" rule. I think with wider blades, I tend to shave with a smaller angle then, which is good. That's why I am not a fan of anything smaller than 5/8, as I find the angle harder to judge and control.

For wedges, I find myself subconsciously increasing the angle as well, being afraid of "face suck" as someone had so eloquently put it. Once that has happened, it is hard to forget.

For DE's, I agree with Robin. In my twenty years of DE shaving, my worst cut, bar none, was with a slant loaded with a Feather Platinum. The thing literally shaved a chunk of skin off the base of my neck.

It used to be that I still chose a DE whenever I was in a rush. Now, I find I can do a two pass shave just as fast with a straight. It is the cleanup in tough spots like my chin and either side of my adam's apple that takes longer than with a DE.

But I like taking my time shaving, and even if I say I will just do two passes, I can hardly ever stop while I can still feel some stubble when I run my hand in any direction, so I shave usually prefer to shave when I get home from work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by todot62

I'm starting to see this now. When you start shaving it seems you want to reduce the angle because you of fear of cutting yourself. Now that I've gained some confidence I'm starting to find the angle that lets the razor do the work. On the Big Boys it just LOOKS like a more upright angle because you've got a thicker blade. I think my initial mistake was starting with the Feather in which you almost lay the blade on your face.

Tod

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While this is true, it does not explain why you find the sweet spot at an angle greater than your other blades. Of course, shaving arm hair is different from shaving your face, but if this is consistent, it may also depend on the angle of your bevel. FWIW, I had a wedge I had honed once with several layers of tape on the spine, and experienced something similar.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jnich67

I'm not "master", but I can get a very decent shave with a 1.5 pass straight shave now in about 5 minutes - if I have to. One stroke WTG, then one XTG in the same spot. I hit each section of face this way, then do a southward pass under the chin/neck; relather and go S/N. Done

Jordan

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YES! This is exactly what I strive for every morning. I enjoy the straight shave so much that I hate to NOT start a day without it, but I can't spend the time to do a really, really good shave. Since I generally don't shave on Saturday or Sunday morning, I reserve the good shave for Sunday night. Every weekday morning is my "once down, once up, walk away" 15 minute shave.

I'm using a 5/8 fully hollow ground razor and haven't had much experience with anything else, but would like to indulge in a variety of blades some day (should I have prefaced that with "Hi, my name is Biff, and I'm a straight razor shaver"?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by biffdebris

I'm using a 5/8 fully hollow ground razor and haven't had much experience with anything else, but would like to indulge in a variety of blades some day (should I have prefaced that with "Hi, my name is Biff, and I'm a straight razor shaver"?)

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Uh Oh, this sounds like the first symptoms of RAD. A mask, Purell and a marriage enhancement book should be standard issue for everyone who joins this fine establishment.

Well, off to the classifieds. :rolleyes:

Tod