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Thread: Shaving with the Big Boys
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05-09-2009, 09:46 PM #1
Interesting questions that made me think - which I haven't done much of lately - with respect to my technique.
First, I don't think there is any such thing as an "advanced" straight. I've had little known brand names that shaved as well as popular brands depending on the hone job and condition.
Second, after a while - for me at least, I don't consciously pay attention to the angle - it's either optimal or it's not and I adjust accordingly - regardless of the razor size, etc. It's almost an unconscious thing. I don't know when that started happening. I just started to pay attention to what was happening at the surface of my skin - and that's pretty much all I worry about. That reminds me of when my father was teaching me to drive in Manhattan. He said "just pay attention to the front of your car, and go to the open space - don't worry about anything else..."
I like all sizes of blades. I think many like bigger blades because of the heft. The momentum they have [I]can[I] make shaving seem easier. I think grind has more to do with this though. If I'm shaving every day, that means I'm really just shaving stubble. In that case I like a hollow ground 5/8 or otherwise "light" razor. If it's been a day or two then the big boys feel more appropriate. This is a personal choice thing. See what works for you. Try a bunch of different blade styles before dropping a lot of money in one direction.
I started traditional wet shaving with a DE and used it for about 3 months before I switched to straights. I got pretty good at it, but never got anything close to what I can do with a straight. I've used my DE so infrequently that my technique with this tool is pretty much gone. I'm not "master", but I can get a very decent shave with a 1.5 pass straight shave now in about 5 minutes - if I have to. One stroke WTG, then one XTG in the same spot. I hit each section of face this way, then do a southward pass under the chin/neck; relather and go S/N. Done
Keep at it and you get better. Practice, etc. Enjoy
Sorry for rambling
JordanLast edited by jnich67; 05-09-2009 at 10:08 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to jnich67 For This Useful Post:
JoeyGargano (05-09-2009)
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05-09-2009, 09:59 PM #2
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Thanked: 1Sound info, advice. You didn't ramble!!!
Joey
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The Following User Says Thank You to JoeyGargano For This Useful Post:
jnich67 (05-09-2009)
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05-09-2009, 10:42 PM #3
All great information, keep 'em coming.
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05-09-2009, 11:12 PM #4
My favorite zone is between 6/8 and 7/8, with 13/16 being ideal. For extra hollow blades like the TI's, I like the 7/8's as I think the longer hollow flexes just a bit more to make my shave just a little bit closer.
As regards angle, I am not a stickler for 30 degrees either. I like the "just a little off flat on your skin" rule. I think with wider blades, I tend to shave with a smaller angle then, which is good. That's why I am not a fan of anything smaller than 5/8, as I find the angle harder to judge and control.
For wedges, I find myself subconsciously increasing the angle as well, being afraid of "face suck" as someone had so eloquently put it. Once that has happened, it is hard to forget.
For DE's, I agree with Robin. In my twenty years of DE shaving, my worst cut, bar none, was with a slant loaded with a Feather Platinum. The thing literally shaved a chunk of skin off the base of my neck.
It used to be that I still chose a DE whenever I was in a rush. Now, I find I can do a two pass shave just as fast with a straight. It is the cleanup in tough spots like my chin and either side of my adam's apple that takes longer than with a DE.
But I like taking my time shaving, and even if I say I will just do two passes, I can hardly ever stop while I can still feel some stubble when I run my hand in any direction, so I shave usually prefer to shave when I get home from work.
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05-12-2009, 05:44 AM #5
YES! This is exactly what I strive for every morning. I enjoy the straight shave so much that I hate to NOT start a day without it, but I can't spend the time to do a really, really good shave. Since I generally don't shave on Saturday or Sunday morning, I reserve the good shave for Sunday night. Every weekday morning is my "once down, once up, walk away" 15 minute shave.
I'm using a 5/8 fully hollow ground razor and haven't had much experience with anything else, but would like to indulge in a variety of blades some day (should I have prefaced that with "Hi, my name is Biff, and I'm a straight razor shaver"?)
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05-12-2009, 01:28 PM #6