How different razors feel...

Hi,

Still new to the straight razor thing but I have three razors and they all shave so differently I feel... I have been using a Dovo Bismarck for awhile and I was really getting it down. I mean I could do a 3 pass shave with few to no nicking. Felt awesome. I recently purchased a hefty Hart and I'm finding that I almost am giving myself a case of razor burn! I have only used it 3 times but it's pretty rough.

Now each of the razors was honed by a different person. But help me debug this because I'm SURE it's my technique. Why might I have a different shaving experience with my Dovo than my Hart? Is there anything I should do differently to try and improve the experience with the Hart (aside from continual practice)?

Thanks guys...

Angle or pressure ? I have this BA Wade and Butcher and almost took off my chin with it the first time I used it. I got to a spot I thought was the hairline because I felt some resistance. I shouldn't have kept going as it was where my chin changed angles. Yep watched the whole thing in the mirror, as it happened. :gaah: It only bled for an hour but I had a spot I had to shave around for a week or so. I have yet to fix up a couple of smilers I have in the repair box. Will pay more attention and stop when I get the feeling I should this time.

That's kind of what happened to me when I first used my wedge after using full hollows. I think the difference in weight was highlighting how much more pressure I had been using than I thought I was. The next time I shaved with it, I consciously lightened up with it and then no burn.

i just had my first shave yesterday with a wedge after only using full hollows and I razer burned my whole chin ha ha its all about learning the different pressures and angles with each razor size width and style!

As said above its an angle thing. I have 12 razors in rotation at this time ranging from a brand new full hollow german razors to an extra heavy wedge 9/8 razor that is nearing it's 200th birthday. Each razor has its own attitude and requires a slightly different technique when shaving... some razors like a straight down cut while other blade work best with a 'scything' type stroke. Most smiling blades work much more efficiently IMO with a scything pass as opposed to a straight stoke. I think it is general consensus that heavier wedge blade require less pressure as the weight of the blade will usually be enough to cut whiskers clean at face level.

I have also notice that the bevel makes a big difference when it comes to the angle that the blade likes to cut at. Typically a smaller bevel may have a slightly steeper angle and therefore would require a slightly greater angle to cut the whiskers well... When a bevel is slightly wider i find you can effectively cut hairs a a lower angle ie 20 degrees or less; this means if you approach your face at a greater angle which may work for some other blades you will end up with sub-par results- enter razor burn! The prime example of this is the shavette with a disposable blade. I have seen some guys go at it at an angle of 70 degrees or more and manage not to nic themselves... Try that with a new Dovo or an old W&BG nand you may be taking a visit to the ER for some stitches on your face.

There are too many factors to say what the problem is for certain. I assuming that the edge is awesome and shave ready and your prep is spot on... That being the case it is likely your approach. As a newer shaver s=get to know your face and how the blade should feel on your face. With practice you should be able to shave with your eyes closed, no joke. Always approach your face with the razor at the lowest possible angle and adjust on the stroke accordingly until you get a feel for the new blade... That should help!

Happy shaving!

The first couple shaves using the 1/4 hollow Hart should have been relatively easy coming off the full hollow Dovo. Shaving technique is the same, regardless of the grind or size of the razor. Both razors will command zero pressure to be used. And, if anything, the 1/4 hollow razor should be MORE forgiving of improper technique than the full hollow.

Here's my two thoughts on the matter. First, your angle may be too steep with the Hart, try to flatten it out a bit. Second, of that doesn't work, the Hart likely isn't completely shave ready and needs some more time on the hones. Believe it or not, you are more likely to get cuts and burn from a dulling razor than an ultra sharp one.

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Originally Posted by Ryan82

The first couple shaves using the 1/4 hollow Hart should have been relatively easy coming off the full hollow Dovo. Shaving technique is the same, regardless of the grind or size of the razor. Both razors will command zero pressure to be used. And, if anything, the 1/4 hollow razor should be MORE forgiving of improper technique than the full hollow.

Here's my two thoughts on the matter. First, your angle may be too steep with the Hart, try to flatten it out a bit. Second, of that doesn't work, the Hart likely isn't completely shave ready and needs some more time on the hones. Believe it or not, you are more likely to get cuts and burn from a dulling razor than an ultra sharp one.

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Wow - seriously? Honing was a real problem with this razor (read here). It seems crazy sharp right now. In fact, I was imagining them trying to spite me by sharpening it up this second time around :)

I plan to play with the angles. Oddly I found the Dovo to be really forgiving. I feel like I could get sloppy with angle and pressure and get away with it. This Hart - not so much... But hell I don't know anything yet - hence this post :)

Okay, after getting caught up on the honing thread it looks like the razor has been rehoned to your satisfaction. If you are confident it is as sharp as sharp can be then shave readiness is out of the equation. That basically leaves pressure and angle as the culprits.

As well, when you said the Hart was "pretty rough", what did you mean? Were you talking about the feel of the blade or just the fact you're getting burn?

I think most folks don't appreciate the "you" factor in shaving and I don't mean your technique.

When you shave with a straight you use very little pressure and a simple change in razors means changes in scale patterns, sizes, textures,weight and balance changes. All these affect how you hold and apply the razor to your skin.

Certainly going from a 5/8s hollow to a 7/8s part wedge will feel very different however among similar sized and types of razors this individuality of a razor and your relationship to it plays a bigger role than many appreciate.

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Originally Posted by Ryan82

As well, when you said the Hart was "pretty rough", what did you mean? Were you talking about the feel of the blade or just the fact you're getting burn?

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Just the burn. After the first pass, it feels fine. After the second, I can start to feel the burn and my face feels like it's been sanded up a bit. After a third pass, it feels quite "burned". It could very well be my technique and perhaps (as stated above) I am able to get away with more pressure with the full hollow Dovo than this Hart. I'll work on lightening up a bit and maybe lowering the spine to reduce the angle.

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

Angle or pressure ? I have this BA Wade and Butcher and almost took off my chin with it the first time I used it. I got to a spot I thought was the hairline because I felt some resistance. I shouldn't have kept going as it was where my chin changed angles. Yep watched the whole thing in the mirror, as it happened. :gaah: It only bled for an hour but I had a spot I had to shave around for a week or so. I have yet to fix up a couple of smilers I have in the repair box. Will pay more attention and stop when I get the feeling I should this time.

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I did something similar with my first go of my Joseph Rodgers square point wedge. Point dug into the cheek a little but I didn't feel it and continued the down stroke. Lovely slice for me there. Seeing it happen and still being surprised is quite a sensation. So too is putting a styptic on that bad boy!

After the first shave I gave myself bad burn too. I honestly think I used too much pressure and got away with it. I may need to learn to shave my neck all over again.

You can do some surprising things with angles if you eliminate pressure. I've posted videos on here before of shavers using angles close to 90% and getting away with it because they limited the pressure to nearly nothing. Look at it this way: if your pressure is really as light as it can be, it is just about impossible to generate either cuts or razor burn. If your razor is really shave ready, there is no need for any pressure at all.

I've never given much thought as to why different razors behave differently, I just know that each of mine have a personality that I've had to learn. The most difficult one is my Charlie Lewis frame back but, once I figured it out, it's an awesome blade! I guess I don't have any specific suggestions beyond what's already been stated. The one thing I think I've settled on is that the full-hollow blades are very flexible and need a little more delicate caution while wedges seem to plow on through with less finesse required. But that's just me. 😸

I have 33 razors in my rotation and each 1 has a personality of its own. some are BBS smooth and others are just a little rougher. I do know however when I start which 1 is which and how to handle each 1. I think that's the fun of it for me- it's always a different experience! obviously I like the ones that are smoother but I'll go with anyone as long as I'm 100 percent positive that it is shaved ready!

Everyone else has said here, it sounds like a combination of angle and pressure. One of the things that have helped me with switching razors everyday is keeping a log of my shaves. (yes, I am that OCD!). I list. The date of purchase, honing dates and most importantly the shave characteristics (closeness of shave, razor burn, nicks, slices...etc). Using this I have been able to alter my exact rotation to use razors in an order that has razors with similar characteristics following each other. For example, I don't try and use my Boker shoulderless full hollow 6/8 immediately after my W&B 8/8 Full Wedge. The razors in my opinion, do not shave similarly. One requires less of an angle and a bit more pressure.

I'm working on a log for Pre-shave lotions and oils; soaps and creams; and after shave treatments to try to maximize my comfort.

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Originally Posted by Silents

Everyone else has said here, it sounds like a combination of angle and pressure. One of the things that have helped me with switching razors everyday is keeping a log of my shaves. (yes, I am that OCD!). I list. The date of purchase, honing dates and most importantly the shave characteristics (closeness of shave, razor burn, nicks, slices...etc). Using this I have been able to alter my exact rotation to use razors in an order that has razors with similar characteristics following each other. For example, I don't try and use my Boker shoulderless full hollow 6/8 immediately after my W&B 8/8 Full Wedge. The razors in my opinion, do not shave similarly. One requires less of an angle and a bit more pressure.

I'm working on a log for Pre-shave lotions and oils; soaps and creams; and after shave treatments to try to maximize my comfort.

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Not THAT, is indeed some OCD sir!

Hey, ESL.
My own preferences have me using the two extremes of grinds - extra hollow and 1/4h and heavier. I love them both. The difference in feel does make demands of my technique, w/ the extra hollow spike points being the most demanding. I do find the angle differs, w/ the EH needing to keep the spine close to the face. Pressure w/ the EH will make things colorful and uncomfortable. The heavies are just the big friendly tools that place little demand. Angle? Schmangle. Lets mow. Pressure? No prob, but don't get carried away. Now w/ all that tolerance in the shave - they still perform incredibly w/ *no* pressure - which is what I try for.
I'd say for the better part of 6 months, I continually thought I knew what 'no pressure' was - only to discover I had a ways to go. During that time, I was more fond of the heavy blades 'cause they were so tolerant.
I suspect a few months from now, you'll be thinking more on how you like or want the particular differences from a particular blade on a particular day.

I find this ironic. Most feedback has indicated that the extra-hollow is less forgiving than the heavy but I'm finding the exact opposite. I was doing great with my 3/4 hollow Dovo and it's not until I am now using this heavy Hart that I am struggling. I'm actually finding that pressure is a big problem with the Hart!

I shaved this morning and I literally was using NO pressure and very small angle. FAR better shave than previously but I do feel like I have started all over again. I stopped doing an ATG pass with it and I focused more on my cheeks than my neck. Again - I feel like I started all over again. Good thing I found it so fun :)