Thread: How different razors feel...

Hi,

Still new to the straight razor thing but I have three razors and they all shave so differently I feel... I have been using a Dovo Bismarck for awhile and I was really getting it down. I mean I could do a 3 pass shave with few to no nicking. Felt awesome. I recently purchased a hefty Hart and I'm finding that I almost am giving myself a case of razor burn! I have only used it 3 times but it's pretty rough.

Now each of the razors was honed by a different person. But help me debug this because I'm SURE it's my technique. Why might I have a different shaving experience with my Dovo than my Hart? Is there anything I should do differently to try and improve the experience with the Hart (aside from continual practice)?

Thanks guys...

Angle or pressure ? I have this BA Wade and Butcher and almost took off my chin with it the first time I used it. I got to a spot I thought was the hairline because I felt some resistance. I shouldn't have kept going as it was where my chin changed angles. Yep watched the whole thing in the mirror, as it happened. It only bled for an hour but I had a spot I had to shave around for a week or so. I have yet to fix up a couple of smilers I have in the repair box. Will pay more attention and stop when I get the feeling I should this time.

That's kind of what happened to me when I first used my wedge after using full hollows. I think the difference in weight was highlighting how much more pressure I had been using than I thought I was. The next time I shaved with it, I consciously lightened up with it and then no burn.

i just had my first shave yesterday with a wedge after only using full hollows and I razer burned my whole chin ha ha its all about learning the different pressures and angles with each razor size width and style!

As said above its an angle thing. I have 12 razors in rotation at this time ranging from a brand new full hollow german razors to an extra heavy wedge 9/8 razor that is nearing it's 200th birthday. Each razor has its own attitude and requires a slightly different technique when shaving... some razors like a straight down cut while other blade work best with a 'scything' type stroke. Most smiling blades work much more efficiently IMO with a scything pass as opposed to a straight stoke. I think it is general consensus that heavier wedge blade require less pressure as the weight of the blade will usually be enough to cut whiskers clean at face level.

I have also notice that the bevel makes a big difference when it comes to the angle that the blade likes to cut at. Typically a smaller bevel may have a slightly steeper angle and therefore would require a slightly greater angle to cut the whiskers well... When a bevel is slightly wider i find you can effectively cut hairs a a lower angle ie 20 degrees or less; this means if you approach your face at a greater angle which may work for some other blades you will end up with sub-par results- enter razor burn! The prime example of this is the shavette with a disposable blade. I have seen some guys go at it at an angle of 70 degrees or more and manage not to nic themselves... Try that with a new Dovo or an old W&BG nand you may be taking a visit to the ER for some stitches on your face.

There are too many factors to say what the problem is for certain. I assuming that the edge is awesome and shave ready and your prep is spot on... That being the case it is likely your approach. As a newer shaver s=get to know your face and how the blade should feel on your face. With practice you should be able to shave with your eyes closed, no joke. Always approach your face with the razor at the lowest possible angle and adjust on the stroke accordingly until you get a feel for the new blade... That should help!

Happy shaving!

The first couple shaves using the 1/4 hollow Hart should have been relatively easy coming off the full hollow Dovo. Shaving technique is the same, regardless of the grind or size of the razor. Both razors will command zero pressure to be used. And, if anything, the 1/4 hollow razor should be MORE forgiving of improper technique than the full hollow.

Here's my two thoughts on the matter. First, your angle may be too steep with the Hart, try to flatten it out a bit. Second, of that doesn't work, the Hart likely isn't completely shave ready and needs some more time on the hones. Believe it or not, you are more likely to get cuts and burn from a dulling razor than an ultra sharp one.

Originally Posted by Ryan82

The first couple shaves using the 1/4 hollow Hart should have been relatively easy coming off the full hollow Dovo. Shaving technique is the same, regardless of the grind or size of the razor. Both razors will command zero pressure to be used. And, if anything, the 1/4 hollow razor should be MORE forgiving of improper technique than the full hollow.

Here's my two thoughts on the matter. First, your angle may be too steep with the Hart, try to flatten it out a bit. Second, of that doesn't work, the Hart likely isn't completely shave ready and needs some more time on the hones. Believe it or not, you are more likely to get cuts and burn from a dulling razor than an ultra sharp one.

Wow - seriously? Honing was a real problem with this razor (read here). It seems crazy sharp right now. In fact, I was imagining them trying to spite me by sharpening it up this second time around

I plan to play with the angles. Oddly I found the Dovo to be really forgiving. I feel like I could get sloppy with angle and pressure and get away with it. This Hart - not so much... But hell I don't know anything yet - hence this post

Okay, after getting caught up on the honing thread it looks like the razor has been rehoned to your satisfaction. If you are confident it is as sharp as sharp can be then shave readiness is out of the equation. That basically leaves pressure and angle as the culprits.

As well, when you said the Hart was "pretty rough", what did you mean? Were you talking about the feel of the blade or just the fact you're getting burn?

I think most folks don't appreciate the "you" factor in shaving and I don't mean your technique.

When you shave with a straight you use very little pressure and a simple change in razors means changes in scale patterns, sizes, textures,weight and balance changes. All these affect how you hold and apply the razor to your skin.

Certainly going from a 5/8s hollow to a 7/8s part wedge will feel very different however among similar sized and types of razors this individuality of a razor and your relationship to it plays a bigger role than many appreciate.

Originally Posted by Ryan82

As well, when you said the Hart was "pretty rough", what did you mean? Were you talking about the feel of the blade or just the fact you're getting burn?

Just the burn. After the first pass, it feels fine. After the second, I can start to feel the burn and my face feels like it's been sanded up a bit. After a third pass, it feels quite "burned". It could very well be my technique and perhaps (as stated above) I am able to get away with more pressure with the full hollow Dovo than this Hart. I'll work on lightening up a bit and maybe lowering the spine to reduce the angle.