A couple more into rotation

From a bag of junk, to a chest of treasures. I've cleaned these two on the pin. Honed and have shaved with the wentworth. Its not bad, just needs tweeked a little more on the hones. Took today and finished theAttachment 198290Attachment 198291Attachment 198292Attachment 198293 faultless. Its midnight will shave with it in the morning. Goodnight y'all. Man i hope i can sleep, anticipation sucks. I know its gonna be an excellent shaver, we'll see Attachment 198287Attachment 198288Attachment 198289

They're comming along nicely. What's going on around the bevel in the first pic? Looks like something is smeared all over it.

Whoever owened them last tried to sharpen with a brick i think, thought it was grinder marks, but metal is fine, no heat generatated. I think he gave up when the toe of one of them cracked. Had to remove 1/8" off the toe since the chip/crack was up thru the stabilizer. But all in all their still good shavers. By the way the shave the next morning was awsome. I drew the blade WTG from sideburn to the jaw. It was so smooth (no pull , chatter from beard ) I had to stop, I really thought it wasn't cutting. Really great blade. Cant complain $30 for 6 screwed up blades mskes me smile

Looking good! :tu

Here's the last of the cleaned on pin. Its a temtest, the one that had the broken toe. The next two i need to make scales for. A meir and a crown&swordAttachment 198555Attachment 198556Attachment 198557 sorry i was in such a hurry to get this finished, that I forgot before pics and the group photo doesn't show the whole blade. Couldn't remove all scratches or i would have destroyed the blade. Doesn't effect the edge. Wich is very tiny and wonderful to shave with. Blade is very thin, flexes when lightly pressed against thumb nail. Honing was easiest. A few bread knifes on a 320, to remove the shark teeth from the brick. 10 laps 1000 nani, TNT dug in and almost thru nail in short order. Ok i say lets try something? 20 strokes 12000 nani, 10 laps cr.ox., 20 fabric, 40 leather. Shave this morning 20 more on leather. AMAZING!! Bin touching my face all day.Attachment 198558Attachment 198559

The fancy scales look to be an Anton Tadros of NY,NY
His imports are the onlies I've seen with that much embellishment.
~Richard

outback: are you using buffer polisher machine for your restorations?

Here ya go geezer ,it didn't show in picsAttachment 198632 i still haven't. Found maker

To flybare. No, all my work is by hand. Though i just bought a dremmel just for major work. Hence this blade. Here's a few pics of how and whatAttachment 198633Attachment 198634Attachment 198635Attachment 198636Attachment 198637Attachment 198638 thats my buffer, lets me apply good pressure, and get in tight places, plus keeps me away from blade. I also nest the blade in a rag to cushin against posible damaged to the blade as would happen for sure against a hard surface.Attachment 198639Attachment 198640Attachment 198641 the sander, blade face only.Attachment 198642Attachment 198643[ATTACH]198644[/ATTACH tang sander and top of spine.Attachment 198645 this and flitz on the scales. Oh! Almost forgot. A crap bucket over filled with elbo grease. YMMV

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outback

Here ya go geezer ,it didn't show in picsAttachment 198632 i still haven't. Found maker

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Didn't Fly..
~Richard

Howsomever you do pretty much the same routine as I do. A lot of hand work and very little power too work. A lot can be done while ignoring the TV set.
~Richard

Sorry geezer, dont know what happened. Grandkids were here. Yep 47 yrs. Old and 2 grandkids, but lets try againAttachment 198665

WOW, Thanks for details. Your initial bundle of blades look familiar, as I have many such bundles of older but nice ones that need a fresh face. Although I can hone most of them to shave ready, they dont always show well, let alone sell. I have been reluctant to do much to them beyond rust removal and general cleaning (as one should not polish the base of a Tiffany lamp e.g.), but my premise is sales will improve if they show clean and shiny. Seeking inspiration here and on u-tube, I was convinced I need a bufffer, wheels and compound to achieve that result, thus my question. So you may have just saved me upwards of $400 (I dont do things half-way!). Guess I need to get to Auto Zone for StarBright and paper with more than 400 grit.
Retired at 62 with only one grandchild, I have the time to address the over 200 SR's that I've acquired. Not by chance, I started buying them here and there 12 years ago, as a hobby and to set up a table at various fairs and flea markets. Retirement Income :D I've gotten pretty good at Dremel pin-removal and re-pinning with rods and washers from Maggard's (I'm in Michigan also), so cleaning the blades properly is my next hurdle. I've been concerned about the safety and mess with a buffer, and I think I can handle a few while golf is on the TV, so I appreciate your confirmation that good results are possible without the machine. Again, Thanks to you and the Geezer too!!

Your very welcome. But i did forget something that makes a huge differance.Attachment 198756 now you can put some really good pressure on it. Carful not to sand off of the edge, or up over side of spine. The round eraser keeps that from happening

Well done! This could be a sticky for all the good information you have shown!
I would still like to see the make of the razor with the very fancy, flowery, blue? scales.
~Richard

OB: Yea, I figured that out after trying freehand. More effective and safer when clamped down. And the rounded eraser only makes sense. Anyway, got to the Zone for full range of papers. They have 3k and 5k in a sponge like pad for wet sanding. After serious effort with the 180 & 320 for rust and pitting, the finer grits really polish it nice. While my results may not have quite the mirror finish of a blade that spent 3 hours on buffing wheels, it certainly is effective and more economical. Thanks again.

Just for you geezerAttachment 198825Attachment 198826

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outback

Just for you geezer

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And muchly appreciated! Thank you!
~Richard

Flybare, use the cr/ox first then flitz. Afrer sanding. Of course. Use a fabric like blue jeans for the cr/ox. Just rub the part of the rag your going to use. Not the whole thing. Lots of pressure not excessive. Circles, diagonally, across, ect. The more you rub the better it works. The heat that is created melts the cr/ox into the rag. Thats when it starts working the best. Whew ! Ha Ha keep going your arm isnt hurting YET.. Now take a break, now rub some more. I think you see where im going. Attachment 198827

OK, here's my update. Took an old BLACK DEMON. There was an X at each end on opposite scales. Here are some old pictures of it.
Attachment 198842Attachment 198843Attachment 198844Attachment 198845

Following the advice of the venerable Outback and Geezer, I used progressive wet/dry papers, here from 320 to 5k grit. I haven't obtained any cr/ox yet but did use the Flitz. Moreover, I removed both pins without damage to the scales, sanded out the X's and overall then polished them and re-pinned with brass (kit from Maggard's). My first real de-pin re-pin effort:beer1:. I'm elated and afraid it might be contagious. I have pondered this awhile and think I at least passed the test with at least a C+
Attachment 198846Attachment 198847Attachment 198848Attachment 198849Attachment 198850Attachment 198851Attachment 198852Attachment 198853
I'm not sure I would be so satisfied with a bench buffer, as doing it by hand and saving some bucks. But then I tie my own trout flies. Thanks for the advice and inspiration from you both.

Besides, old Lawyers never die, nor do I, and "Outback & Geezer" is a good group to work with:rofl2:

By the way, sweet razor. And looks good. The cr/ox will take out more of the fine scratches over flitz

Thank you. But it still needs some work. I am finding that the 400 paper is a bit coarse except for real rust and pitting. It sure removes the shine that exists and it takes alot longer to get those scratches polished out with the finer grit papers.

Still working on obtaining some cr/ox. It's not readily available at HD, Lowes, etc. Have read about "pure" cr/ox (which is supposed to be 0.5 micron) but have looked to Ebay-Amazon as both SRD & Maggards are out of stock. Some are cosmetic powders, others just green block stick or paste. So are there any recommendations as to type or brand? Or might other products be the same, like the white (fine) and jewelers rouges (finer) such as DICO WR-1 and JR-1? These sold as buffing compounds, but I haven't tried them yet.

Same problem tracking down Star Bright products. A local marine dealer may have some, including their Step 2. Have you tried that, and if so, is it just a finer product, grit-wise? In the meantime, I can always fall back on Mequiars Plastic for scales, and Flitz, MAAS or Mothers for the metal.

Finally here's my meager offering. For fly tying, I mounted my Norvise (the greatest for that) on a wooden cutting board. But it works also for sanding and polishing. The blade with or without scales sits well in the routed catch trap. While I almost prefer fingertips to control the paper, I have cut a couple of erasers (not fingers) when I couldn't find one made round. The magnified light from fly-tying is also great for this work, especially for pinning and dremel work. I will get back here when I'm happy with the Black Demon. Lord knows there's more work ahead of me. :hmmm:Attachment 199062Attachment 199063Attachment 199064Attachment 199065

Well im a marine mechanic so starbrite is easily at hand. I dont know if the cr/ox spray would work i use the crayon. Seems like everyone is out of it though. In your cigar box, what's the razor with the sword scales. It looks cool. Kinda something i had in mind for my c&s till it broke

Thats funny. I use my fly tying table for sanding too

the fly bench/work bench

It's a nice Geneva (NY) Cutlery blade with slight smile, in George Washington scales. An Ebay purchase I would have bought just for the Geo. W's.
Any ideas on how to restore the dark lettering without ruining the scale surface? I'm tempted to use permanent marker and quickly wipe the surface. Attachment 199092Attachment 199093Attachment 199094Attachment 199095Attachment 199096Attachment 199097Attachment 199099
I've fished AuSable most of my life but have listed cabin on North Branch (brookie water) for sale (too small for permanent home). C&R all year; season opens 4/30.
Hooray, Hooray, the First of May, outdoor games begin that day!!

From the angle view, it looks like you can save the lettering
For the lettering, I have had some success with the enamel/ lacquer ink ball point pens from a craft store.The tip is small and will usually stay with in the tiny depressions. I use lapping, wet, film after the ink is dry to remove all the overrun without digging it out of the depressions.
The pend\s are available in many colors including silver and gold.
Good luck!
~Richard

So what your saying is paint over the letters. Then clean/sand the blade. Then what aceatone/laquer thinner to remove paint?

Flybare are the letters raised or cut in to the scales. I trout finished the Greenbrier River in West Virginia till 1984 North and South Fork and also the Little River stocked trout now I just steelhead fish the tributaries of Lake Erie it's closer to home and the fish are biggerAttachment 199148Attachment 199149

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outback

So what your saying is paint over the letters. Then clean/sand the blade. Then what aceatone/laquer thinner to remove paint?

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NO SOLVENT!!!!!!!
IF the comment did not make sense to you, do not do anything!
~Richard

Now there's a lifelong fly fisher, nice catch OB!!!
Geezer, the letters are engraved or cut into the celluloid scales. At the same time the outline of the letters is distinct and banked slightly higher than the surrounding surface. Needle probing shows the dark parts to be grime easily removed. While I assume there was, if the lettering was ever inked or filled with any color, there's no evidence or residue to show that. I am going to to something to highlight Geo Washington but Pet solvents are the last thing I want on cellulose (so I'm told). I have some of those enamel paint marker-pens but they are solvent based and so I hesitate. I wouldnt want such vanity to melt the material. So perhaps you can tell this fish that by lap, wet, film you mean carefully and quickly wiping the excess off the surface? Thanks in advance.

Also, got email msg from Maggard's. Their new store open house is set for May 16 noon to eight. Not the 18th.

Lo Flybare,
You are correct. The letters were hot stamped into the surface which displaced the material above the rest of the surface. There was a piece of film that had a coating of ink which was pressed by the stamp into the surface. The film came off and the ink stayed.
I have used the ball type paint pens on many razors over the years. Take the time to allow each coat to dry; it may take a few tracings of the depressions to get then completely full and some paint will be high. Then wet sand with lapping film. Sandpaper of any kind is a bit soft and may scoop out the paint.
I used to just wash out the surface with a citrus cleaner and do my best to fill the markings with a small brush and then sand the whole thing down to the rest of the surface. It worked, but, if the surface was worn around the indentations it often didn't stick well, or the there was not enough depth left to hold any ink by the time I had sanded the surroundings..
I just gave you my preferred method.
YMMV
~Richard
PS. For raised lettering and logos. spread the paint onto a sheet of paper and roll the high spots against it. or paint the surface of a pink pearl eraser and use it as a stamp. It may take a few coats but does the job nicely.

Well actually, I'm not going to do anything. But give it a few passes on the8/12 Nani's, cr/ox , fabric, leather, and my face. LOL

Flybare i used to engrave those plastic pin-on name plates. We would heat crayons w/lighters, then smear into letters then rub off excess. Works great, any color you want. Just soften them not melt

Thanks Guys!! When I really get to that one, this will surely help. I am not familiar with lapping film and need to understand before I begin. :chapeau What color would George want? Meantime to maintain integrity on this thread, here is my final result on the Black Demon. I can't say it looks like something off a buffer but for a hand job it looks much better than before. I used a diamond file to smooth the pinning and finally found a green crayon. After many hours I took it to the Naniwa 12 and Shapglass 16 before web and leather on new SRD. Tried the Jagger Sandlewood soap and balm. Result is very pleasing with very good but smooth action that doesnt threaten to cut on a second pass. Hold the applause. As it's one of the first ones I ever had, it's now going into my rotation for awhile. Again, you two have been crucial to my progress. As Scarface said, I am ripe (for knowledge at least). Merci. Attachment 199220Attachment 199221Attachment 199222Attachment 199223Attachment 199224Attachment 199225Attachment 199226Attachment 199227Attachment 199228Attachment 199229Attachment 199230

Dam good job son. It only gets easier and more fun from here.

Thanks OB, appreciate that. Quick take..I just inspected my Dads grave marker provided thru the VA. Took some time to get from last June. He always called me Son, besides other things. One time I said 'Hey, I'm 60, and my sons are over 30, so if I'm still Son what does that make you?" "An old man..." he replied, "and still your Father." Something else he always told me was "stay straight and be sharp" which made me do my best. Sure miss my fishing buddy and best friend ever. So even though I guess we're about the same age, you can call me son anytime you want!!

Working with the razors I find similar to tying trout flys. Endless patience and a good magnifier using the proper tools and materials. Turning old steel into a smooth shave is like catching a 10" brookie on the matching #18 Sulpher you just tied. Or finally getting that tune right after messing around with your guitar!! Take care my friend.