Results 1 to 1 of 1

Thread: The easy way..

Threaded View

  1. #1
    Senior Member Nervin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    188
    Thanked: 55

    Default The easy way..

    And now it's time for another informative post..

    I am actually posting this for the ones who like Glycerine based soaps over all. Actually for those who have tried my very first formula I am actually posting my recipe... it's real easy to make and the cost effectiveness beats out any glycerine soap out there.

    most have read the melt and pour recipe on here and it is a lot like it.. why? Well when you are working with a melt and pour soap you they are pretty much the same all around. All you have to do is find the soap base that you like. There is little control over what the actual soap properties are because it has already been calculated and hot processed with lye and isopropyl alcohol. However the pluses to it is you can super fat for great conditioning, and what ever fragrance you add to it will be nice and strong as long as you pay attention to the temperatures... Now no matter what.. it's going to lather like any glycerine soap, and moisturize like it too (if you don't add anything).. I used it for quite some time and a few people here have gotten a chance too. Now for the minus.. Because this formula uses clay the lather can dry quicker.. Clay is great for the "Slick" and depending on what type of clay and fragrance/Essential oil you use it might be irritating to the skin. I had two complaints about this and this is why I decided to change my soap to cold process..

    Without further Ado I give you Ugli Soap PS Formula 51:

    What you need:
    Glycerine base of your choice (I used Goatmilk base with kosher Glycerine) if you wand a link to where to get it feel free to PM me..

    moisturizing and skin lubricant (There are three great choices, Shae butter, Lanolin, and I personally have always used Jojoba... If you get a Shae Butter Soap Base then you can use Lanolin or jojoba... both are call liquid wax and are natural humectants that do wonders for skin only one is an animal product and the other is plant one other alternative that is actually superior to either of these is wheat germ oil)

    Clay (this part is tricky because it is a damned if you do and damned if you don't.. I personally cannot use clay especially bentonite, I have psoriasis and it causes all kinds of havoc on my skin... the mixture I used was (for a two pound batch) 2 table spoons of Rhassoul clay 1 table spoon of bentonite... Rhassoul clay does not dry skin but equalizes it.. bentonite is drying.. I have seen some recipes with Koalin clay and that stuff dry's skin and is often used for people who have very oily skin... you can do all bentonite but you should make sure it doesn't bother you at all)...

    fragrance or essential oil.. (any of these you should test it on your own skin to see if it irritates it... but which ever you choose .5 ounces per pound of soap is general rule.. I personally have found that this is very strong and used .5 ounces per 2 pounds.. although I make my own fragrance and essential oils so they are strong anyway.. )

    Molds... (use your imagination.. or if you are wanting to make it bulk and save the rest or give em to friends a PVC pipe with a test cap taped to one end)

    The great thing about this type of soap is that you can use your kitchen utensils and not have to worry about contamination.. There are two ways to melt base.. microwave (not my preferred way...) or crockpot or double boiler.. again your choice..

    Mixer... this can be a spoon if you like but if you want a consistent and thorough mix I suggest a stick blender, or a blender (I know a soaper that only uses a blender), hand mixers, or a stand mixer... (with a stand mixer you can use the metal bowl in a double boiler and just move it to the mixer.. this is actually what I used for mixing melt and pours)

    First, get your additives ready..

    Oils: 1 ounce (by weight) per pound.. measure it out and set it aside..
    Fragrance: .5 ounce (by weight) per pound.. Measure and set it aside..
    Clay: Rhassoul: 1 Tablespoon per pound.. Bentonite: 1/2 tablespoon per pound.. measure and set aside..

    not matter what melting method you use, either use a cheese grater on the soap base, or cut it down to small cubes..

    If you microwave then do it 20 seconds at a time.. pull and stir until its liquid.. take the temp and start mixing in your additives below 110 degrees.. For the double boiler method or crock pot.. just stir and take the temp.. once it melts and hits around 100 degrees take it off the heat.. temperature and constancy is key.. you have to keep it liquid enough to mix in additives, and by the time you are ready to pour it you want it a little thick so that the clay will suspend evenly.. (unless you want to spend a little extra for base that has suspension additive to it)..

    Start mixing slowly and add your clays first.. this will ensure that they get distributed evenly.. followed by the oil... mix well.. then finally your fragrance.. if you want to put in color then make sure to use cosmetic grade pigment coloring.. personally I never use the stuff.. (Hence why my soap brand is called Ugli Soap..).. If you want to make it pretty feel free to PM me and I can help you find some safe pigments for a low price.....

    as you are mixing watch the consistency.. you don't want it too liquidy (as the clays will settle at the bottom) and you don't want it too thick (hard to get it into the molds) you are looking for thin pudding like.. once the mixing starts the temp will drop a little fast.. (one hint for those using PVC... stick the PVC pipe into the freezer the day before.. and pull it out just before you are ready to pour your soap into it..) once you get the constancy pour it into the molds.. if your mold fits in the freezer feel free to put it in.. PVC pipe users.. unless you have a freezer big enough for the pipe to stand straight up then you are stuck with having to wait.. Time in the freezer ( if you have individual molds then about 3 to 4 hours.. a loaf mold.. 12 hours minimum, but test to make sure its solidified.. if you have a freezer that will fit the PVC pipe like a deepfreeze then it's 14 hours..).. no freezer for pvc is 28 hours with the ambient temp at 72 degrees..

    Other molds.. just let it sit in room temp for a few hours then you can use it..

    PVC.. if already frozen.. wait for 5-10 minutes... take off the test cap... get a soup can that fits snuggly into the pipe.. put the can on the floor.. pipe over can and push.. once broke loose then put the can in the other end.. take a broom stick and push.. if it's at room temp them put it in the freezer for 20 mins.. pull out and let sit for 5-10 mins.. then do the same as above.. once it is out them cut.. 3 inch pvc is perfect size..

    once you are done lather and enjoy.. if you used clays remember the lather dries quickly so you will have to use more water than usual.. this goes for any glycerine based soaps with clay in it.. it is just the nature of the stuff..

    either way use common sense when making this.. and always test your soap before pulling it out of the mold.. think about making cake.. you use a toothpick to test for doneness.. well I used a wooden skewer.. so no suing me if bad things happen.. just be careful and you will have a good shaving soap...

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Nervin For This Useful Post:

    ezpz (09-07-2011)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •