Just used 1200grit w/d on some of mine, but I got the feeling that wasn't harsh enough if some of there nicks were deeper...what are your techniques?
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Just used 1200grit w/d on some of mine, but I got the feeling that wasn't harsh enough if some of there nicks were deeper...what are your techniques?
I raise the blade to like 45 degrees and hone until they are almost gone on a 600 chosera. Then I put the spine back on til the bevelais set. Light pressure as you can crack one if you push too hard.
No i meant on your strops! :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
Something like a pumice stone or very fine sandpaper are the best thing for a strop. If that doesn't work the nicks are too deep and you probably can't repair it and have a viable stropping surface. If you have flaps you can glue them down. You can do only so much with leather, it's not a belt or wallet when nicks and such don't really matter or give it character. You need a clean surface.
I have a latigo strop with a few minor nicks in the stropping surface. I sanded it down with a pumice stone and rubbed everything down with baseball glove oil as best I could. I got the edges of the divots even with the rest of the surface (raised surfaces are the real thing to be afraid of), and have been using it now for 6 months like that. The little divots are visible and tactile, but again, when dragging the blade over them, there's no chance for the edge to hit or catch on anything. If I had some pictures I'd post them, but I think you get the idea. I've never had any issues with it, but I am sure others are cringing as they read this.
I have since ordered another strop, but the draw is less to my liking, so as it gets conditioned I still use the damaged one from day to day. No sense in throwing out a 60 dollar piece of leather in my opinion!
Makes sense to me...and hey, if it's giving you good results who can tell you otherwise?Quote:
Originally Posted by vmathis12019
Dont know if youve tried this or not. If the nicks are small and on the edges of the strop they can sometimes just be trimmed out by making them into a small "V" instead of the flap. That way you won't catch the blade.
Haven't tried that and I have an "edge nick". Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnus
I put a tiny drop of CA glue on a toothpick and glue them down with that. Works well usually but porous materials like leather are not CA glue's strong point.
That's where contact cement comes in handy... it should fill the pores of whatever material you put it on, plus has the added benefit of being flexible so that it'll flex w/ your leather.Quote:
Originally Posted by ProudMarineDad
What do you do to fix your nicks?
Make sure I'm not tired or drunk when stropping. :p
but.... I use diamond plates for strop repairs.
Just don't nick it...Unless you've already nicked it, in which case I don't want to know about your light fingered way of life. :p
Mick
This works anywhere, provided the nick isn't too deep. I just trim the flap off at an angle so the nick is more like a small trench, then I sand over it to smooth it down and bobs your uncle. Though all my nicks are in pretty much the same place and near the end, and they really are not deep.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnus
No doubt if it was this type of nicking, the nicker would just nick another, just don't nick mine it's already nicked, and dont get caught or you'll end up in nick. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
Quote:
Originally Posted by edhewitt
You have a flipping issue then don't cha!
Mick
Arrrggggghhhhh, me hearty, I suffer(ed) from the common handle end heel side flip nick affliction. I seem to have mostly recoveredQuote:
Originally Posted by MickR
You have HSFNA? I have some of that myself. Might should start a support group or try to get vaccinated against it. This terrible illness costs daydreaming shavers a fortune in strop replacements each year.Quote:
Originally Posted by edhewitt
(I have had luck with fine sandpaper or a fingernail file to smooth out gouges, crevasses, nicks or slices.)
Seeing as it usually only affects the last few inches of stropping surface, or about the last 4-6" of strop we could start a business selling rolled strop dispensers, like paper towel roll holders, so you could cut off the end of the strop and just pull out a bit more from the dispenser which would effectively form the anchor point for the strop. Alternatively lefty and Righty stroppers could pair up and swap strops when their affected areas got too bad. Or we could buy em up cheap and make em into paddle strops and sell them back to the bozo sorry person we bought them from. :)
I put a few in mine when i first strarted Straight shaving "up at the top". I learned to slow down a little (I don't live in a western movie) and i moved down the strop to the handel end, I found it workes better you me anyway. But i have been thinking about this very thing lately. thanks for the tips guys.
Rich
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDM2
The way I stropped when I first started, you would have thought I was looking for a role in a Western as a barber. Strop isn't too pretty, but not too bad either considering (Yes I still have that first strop). More harm was done to the edge of the razor way back then...Almost 20 years ago now...Geez I feel old all of a sudden...
Mick
I'm in...who do we get as a supplier? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by edhewitt
You sound old all of a sudden :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
Well I've got one, bozo #1 right here. Though I think my nicks give my strop character, I am not really a fan of "all shiney and new"Quote:
Originally Posted by Ru4scuba
Ahh, that's how it should be, "I gave my strop some character!", it sounds way better than nicked it!Quote:
Originally Posted by edhewitt
Well glass half full and all. I noticed the other week that someone had given my car some character the other week when I went to open the bonnet and discovered that the bull bar had been bent back into the front wing, thus preventing the bonnet from opening. Oh well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemur
I got my share of strop micro nicks where I flip the blade near my left hand. Most nicks are on the the shank side of the strop but some are on the toe side. A few had small flaps which I glued down after applying glue using a tooth pick. When dry, I sanded down anything sticking up above the surface using fine sandpaper. I then cleaned the surface with a slightly damp rag. I rub the surface with my palm before use. The nicks are now shallow gullies with rounded edges at the surface. The strop seems to work well and seems tobe improving with age and use. Nothing sticks up to catch or bend an edge.
HTH
Well I hope you've trained yourself to keep the toe down on the strop as well now.
Mick