Thread: What do you do to fix your nicks?

Just used 1200grit w/d on some of mine, but I got the feeling that wasn't harsh enough if some of there nicks were deeper...what are your techniques?

I raise the blade to like 45 degrees and hone until they are almost gone on a 600 chosera. Then I put the spine back on til the bevelais set. Light pressure as you can crack one if you push too hard.

Originally Posted by bill3152

I raise the blade to like 45 degrees and hone until they are almost gone on a 600 chosera. Then I put the spine back on til the bevelais set. Light pressure as you can crack one if you push too hard.

No i meant on your strops! :lol:

Something like a pumice stone or very fine sandpaper are the best thing for a strop. If that doesn't work the nicks are too deep and you probably can't repair it and have a viable stropping surface. If you have flaps you can glue them down. You can do only so much with leather, it's not a belt or wallet when nicks and such don't really matter or give it character. You need a clean surface.

I have a latigo strop with a few minor nicks in the stropping surface. I sanded it down with a pumice stone and rubbed everything down with baseball glove oil as best I could. I got the edges of the divots even with the rest of the surface (raised surfaces are the real thing to be afraid of), and have been using it now for 6 months like that. The little divots are visible and tactile, but again, when dragging the blade over them, there's no chance for the edge to hit or catch on anything. If I had some pictures I'd post them, but I think you get the idea. I've never had any issues with it, but I am sure others are cringing as they read this.

I have since ordered another strop, but the draw is less to my liking, so as it gets conditioned I still use the damaged one from day to day. No sense in throwing out a 60 dollar piece of leather in my opinion!

Originally Posted by vmathis12019

I have a latigo strop with a few minor nicks in the stropping surface. I sanded it down with a pumice stone and rubbed everything down with baseball glove oil as best I could. I got the edges of the divots even with the rest of the surface (raised surfaces are the real thing to be afraid of), and have been using it now for 6 months like that. The little divots are visible and tactile, but again, when dragging the blade over them, there's no chance for the edge to hit or catch on anything. If I had some pictures I'd post them, but I think you get the idea. I've never had any issues with it, but I am sure others are cringing as they read this.

I have since ordered another strop, but the draw is less to my liking, so as it gets conditioned I still use the damaged one from day to day. No sense in throwing out a 60 dollar piece of leather in my opinion!

Makes sense to me...and hey, if it's giving you good results who can tell you otherwise?

Dont know if youve tried this or not. If the nicks are small and on the edges of the strop they can sometimes just be trimmed out by making them into a small "V" instead of the flap. That way you won't catch the blade.

Originally Posted by Johnus

Dont know if youve tried this or not. If the nicks are small and on the edges of the strop they can sometimes just be trimmed out by making them into a small "V" instead of the flap. That way you won't catch the blade.

Haven't tried that and I have an "edge nick". Thanks!

I put a tiny drop of CA glue on a toothpick and glue them down with that. Works well usually but porous materials like leather are not CA glue's strong point.

Originally Posted by ProudMarineDad

I put a tiny drop of CA glue on a toothpick and glue them down with that. Works well usually but porous materials like leather are not CA glue's strong point.

That's where contact cement comes in handy... it should fill the pores of whatever material you put it on, plus has the added benefit of being flexible so that it'll flex w/ your leather.