Linen + beeswax

[izlat]

I am thinking about this as I recently waxed a strop and ironed in the wax to get it nice and stiff.

I got what I needed, but say on a snowboard or ski you scrape off the excess after ironing. This doesn't work as well on a strop.

The linen itself strops fine and I get good results from it now, but next time around I would probably just apply wax on the linen side that doesn't see razor action. I figure the strop will still be stiff, and I can scrape excess without worries, and the surface on the other side will stay as is. I am not sure if the wax has a special function for the edge (e.g. - does it have to be put on the side that the razor is touching? and am I losing something by applying it to the other side?)

Just sharing my experience, thoughts, and asking for some input - if anyone knows / cares

Cheers
Ivo

[AFDavis11]

Don't know the answers but I like your idea of using the back. Traditionally candle wax can be applied also with a similar effect I believe.

I'm not really sure though why you want a stiff linen/canvas? As long as their taught they seem to function pretty well. ????

Candle wax was believed to help heat the blade up quicker I think.

I've been discovering lately that I can achieve much better stropping action with higher speeds in stropping which brings a whole new concept in "burnishing" back to stropping action. And was a big point presented in the candle wax method.

I think you may have to put the wax on the surface and just try it. We've built up a little bit of misunderstanding/misinformation on this site from intuitive presumptions.

When I've used candle wax on the surface I was not able to quantify any improvements but I may check again, especially now that I've identified the effect of blade speed in stropping.

[izlat]

Hi Alan,

the wax IS currently on the working surface, and it works well like this but I do not have an identical linen to compare without it. I also have a cleaned (=de-waxed) linen on another strop and it works very well too, just feels a bit floppy and bendy

The reason I want them stiff is because they came to me stiff and in very good condition (while the leathers were not dried) so I assume they are stiff for a reason. It is much easier to keep the linen taut when stiff, for sure. The feel is also different.

Cheers
Ivo

[spazola]

This does not really answer your question but I thought would share my experiences with beeswax and linen strops. Here is my experiment strop - it has beeswax on both sides and is quite stiff. I applied the beeswax with a brush. I first mixed the beeswax with odorless mineral spirits to make a stiff paste; I then divided it into two batches - one batch mixed with Hand American boron carbide and other with their Chromium oxide. I brushed on then leveled off with a plastic credit card. After drying for a few weeks I burnished the surfaces with the shiny smooth surface of a large screwdriver shank. At first the beeswax was grabby when stropping but it has been getting better with use and age.

I know hanging pasted strops are not all that popular but this strop does seem to work when nothing else will. I am not advocating just sharing.

Charlie

[PuFFaH]

I still use my fathers old strop that is prepared on the linen side with wax and rottenstone. I find a waxed linen handles more like leather if you get my point. Wax if not over applied will aid the razors passage over the strop (hair driers work great) and a small amount of abrasive is great for light touch-ups. Possibly another benifit is the wax will reduce or deny absorbtion of moisture, so reducing the expansion and contraction associated with linen.

Just a small tip: You dont need to add the abrasive to the wax at the melting stage. If you apply a dusting of abrasive powder when the wax has been applied and hardened, you will find it lays nicely on the surface with a rub-in. This will make it possible for you to clean the linen later or change abrasive type. I apply wax till it is soaked right through the linen but keep heating the working side till the wax looks to have melted away.

PuFF

[izlat]

Great ideas, thank you Puff!

Love the hair dryer idea and will try it. I myself also applied heat (iron) until the wax seemed to soak in and disappear from the surface, but stopped because I was worried about burning the linen or damaging it in some way.

Charlie - I have actually heard (and think so myself) that some razors fare much better with treated hanging strops - especially if they have curves that are hard to hit on a hone

Cheers
Ivo