CroOx Question

Hello everyone... Hope all is well. Have a question about what Cro/Ox spray for my Streich-Riemen Loom Strop.. When i purchased this i was quite green at the whole SR thing and i without a doubt used the green pasted side in ways it was not intended so went through it fast.. I have never used a diamond spray or paste since.. So i want to use the green side leather with some finishing Cro/Ox but dont know what to get? My finishing stones are Coti & Naniwa SS 12k.. And assuming just 15 or so strokes with the Cro/Ox should be good?

Thanks as always..
Scott WAttachment 316338

I have some stick Chrome Oxide, I bought from SRD, years ago, that I think was from Mastro Levi, might have been Hand America. Powder from Kremer Pigment and spray from Hand America, all purchased years ago.

I have pasted a number of strops with each of them and they all work, stick and powder are the easiest to apply. Spray is messy goes on thin, but it works.

Before you apply any more Chrome Ox take a clean paper towel, spray some WD40 on the towel and wipe the pasted strop. Those pasted loom strops were heavily pasted, (I have removed all the paste on some old looms, it is on thick).

The WD40 will soften the hard paste, remove all the black swarf and reposition the existing Chrome Oxide and leave a smooth new green surface.

If you do decide to re-paste use pure or as pure as you can get Chrome Oxide, you don’t need much. My most used Chrome Ox pasted strops have not ever been re-pasted, I have lightly cleaned them with WD40.

@Euclid440...Thank you for the info.. I appreciate it. And yes i remember how thick the paste was.. That goes to show when i said i used it in the wrong way. I was so nervous about honing my own razors at that time i thought i could get away with using that paste to hone a razor :) Can i just sand that residual paste or still go with.the WD?
Thanks

If you want to remove it all. Spray with WD40 and let sit a few minutes then with a metal or plastic putty knife scrape it all off.

Clean it up residue with WD40 and paper towel. No need to sand it will all come off easily.

@Euclid440.... Perfect. Heading out to garage for the 40 and scaper. So i forgot that i have in my tool chest somewhere deep down in there a stick of green paste i had forgot about..It is real hard and kind of breaks/cracks off.. Now with this would i get some hot water and mix to a paste consistency then apply thinly on the leather? Thanks
..

Sounds like you are on the right path, Scott. Too much is bad.
CroOx will smooth a toothy edge and maintain a good edge.

Too much will create a rounded toothy edge! Back to the hones

I suggest that you not use your old bar because you do not know the grain size distribution or range. Some bars have particles as large as 6 microns.

Your safest bet is dry powder crox of 0.3-0.5 micron size. Mix one pea size drop of oil with the same amount of crox. Then apply lightly using an x pattern. XXXXXX. Each X should be about 2" wide. Do not use the entire mixture. You should be throwing away at least half of it.

Once applied then smear it and rub it into the leather.
10-20 round trip laps after honing will be sufficient.

Just mixed a tiny bit of what i have up and way too gritty!. I will order some powder in a few minutes.. What kind of oil are you suggesting Randy?
Thanks guys..

DOn’t cheap out. Buy the good stuff from a reputable straight razor source.

I have a small bottle of green CrOx in oil - I think it is Thiers-Issard - that I got from The Classic Edge when I first started seriously shaving with a straight. I applied it to a balsa paddle strop over 5 years ago and haven’t had to reapply since.

When they say a use it sparingly, take that advice. You apply a LITTLE BIT and rub it in. Then you wipe it off with a paper tower until no more comes off on the paper. That’s how little you need to charge the strop.

I haven’t applied it to leather, but I have seen the Mastro Livi videos, and his strops are thickly coated in the stuff. Seems way too much.

I use a coticule as my primary hone, then usually finish with a Vermio and the paddle strop with CrOx. I can maintain an edge using the CrOx for a very long time without returning to the stones.

Puma green paste can easily be found from online vendors and it works well.

Maggard has it in paste form and it works for me. I apply it to a balsa strop and do about 30 laps after a Nanawa 12k.

You could replace the Cromium Oxide if you so wished with Iron Oxide, it's 0.10 which is about 160,000 grit rating so that's extremely smooth.

https://www.maggardrazors.com/produc...10-micron-20g/

Thanks for the help everyone... So i ordered a small bottle of .25 spray and the leather is all cleaned up and waiting to be coated with diamonds..
Thanks again, Scott

@DZEC.. Did you purchase your Vermio from Griffith's by chance? Ive thought about those on occasion but dont hear much about them on the forum.. Thanks, Scott

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TCMichigander

@DZEC.. Did you purchase your Vermio from Griffith's by chance? Ive thought about those on occasion but dont hear much about them on the forum.. Thanks, Scott

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I did purchase it from Griffiths. There are a few threads here that mention them and the Zulu Grey. These seem to be the natural finishing stones folks are comparing these days.

I have pretty much that exact adjustable strop. I love it. These days I use it exclusively for pastes and sprays. What I ended up doing was getting some 50mm cotton webbing and cutting it to the same length as the original leather, stitching it together to form a band, and then punching holes in the appropriate place so I could mount it to the frame of the adjustable strop. It's easy enough to swap out the bands. At this point I have the original leather (which came pasted on one side), and a cotton band with the dovo red and black on it, and another cotton band with CrOx and FeOx on it. I made a post about it a year or so ago but can't find it right now. In any case, it's something I would recommend doing if you like experimenting with stropping compounds.

Second Puma paste. Easy as a wax crayon to use

Most of the powder Chrome Oxide and Ferrous Oxide comes from Kremer Pigments. It is not expensive, though their smallest size in more than you will use in a lifetime. About $10.

There are several old threads on purchasing from Kremer, even the part numbers. Search (Kremer Pigment Chrome Oxide).

About a ¼ teaspoon and a few drops of Neetsfoot oil, mix into a thin paste and apply with a gloved finger or paint brush. You can rub it into the leather or let it sit and dry, the oil will condition the leather. Then strop a razor and the excess will flake off. After a few uses the excess will settle down.

Even after removing all visible signs of Chrome Oxide, you will be surprised at how much remains in the leather and will continue to polish metal.

You can get 0.3µ and 0.5µ Chromium Oxide powder from lapidary supply houses. Mix it with mineral oil to about the same consistency as ketchup. Rub it it with your finger tips, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Ideally, it only fills the pores of the leather. You don't want a thick layer.

Then, go wash your fingers. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TCMichigander

@DZEC.. Did you purchase your Vermio from Griffith's by chance? Ive thought about those on occasion but dont hear much about them on the forum.. Thanks, Scott

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So as not to hijhack the thread, here is a link to a ZG vs. Vermio thread I started back around Christmas that got some good input. I also put a link in it the original ZG super-thread from 2012: https://sharprazorpalace.com/hones/1...l-torreys.html
I need to go back and work with that Vermio some more. Griffith's is showing them back in stock, and his ad says it finishes finer than a thuringian for him.

Most any oil will work but neetsfoot oil is preferred.

Why is neetsfoot preferred?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by boz

Why is neetsfoot preferred?

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It does not degrade and become rancid like some vegetable oils. Neetsfoot oil is derived from the hoof's and bones of animals.
Primarily horses and cows.

randydance062449 Thanks for the answer.
Al

Hi fella's.. Been quite busy the last few weeks haven't had time for the forum.. I want to thank everyone for the advice given.. I got both .25 spray and some paste.
I went with paste for the leather on my broom strop.. Well I noticed right away that doing 12-15 laps with the paste prior to linen/leather finish was turning each blade up a notch.. Took over 3yrs of being stubborn in the idea of not having to use pastes. Lol :) I was most pleased with the result I got with my T.I. p hospital razor.. This is my 3rd TI and without a doubt that steel has given me the most problems getting a good edge.. Frustrating to the point of they were just slot fillers.. Used the pasted strop pretty hard and heavy doing at least 50 laps before final linen n leather.. Finally received a great shave from a TI straight and was very happy!! I still need to figure out the reason why I can't get a good edge with either my Naniwa SS 12k or my coticle with these blades..
Anyway now I'm just rambling. So thanks again everyone..
Peace! Scott W

“Used the pasted strop pretty hard and heavy doing at least 50 laps before final linen n leather..”

So, be careful with pressure and or excessive laps. Diamonds are aggressive even at high grits and will quickly thin an edge.

Look at your edges with magnification before stropping on diamonds and after you will see that it quickly polishes the very edge first, with only 4-5 laps. Add pressure and it cuts quicker and deeper. You only need to polish just the edge. Once it is polished, you arer done,(5-10 laps).

It does not take much to thin an edge to the point it will fail and begin to micro chip and give a harsh shave or with weepers.

The fix is easy just joint the edge on the corner of the 12k 1 or 2 light strokes and 15-20 laps will bring the edge back. If you are having an issue with a hard edge, add an additional layer of tape and do 3-4 more lite laps to add a micro bevel, Strop on linen or leather 5-10 laps between the finish laps and the micro bevel laps for a cleaner edge.

Then do 5-10 laps on the diamonds, you should have a smoking edge. Use the diamonds sparingly and the edge should last a while.

A micro bevel is a quick and easy solution for hard or stubborn steels. Works every time, for me. Stropping prior to cutting the micro bevel cleans the edge of any possible burr or flashing so you get a nice clean edge.

This technique works even if you are not adding a micro bevel, make your finished edge, then strop and do 4-5 more laps on the finish stone with lite pressure.

Hi Euclid.. I definitely new the way I was using that paste on my P. Hospital was doing more harm in the long run than the quick satisfaction of finally getting one of those to a real nice sharpness.. This is my 3rd one and they all have given me fits that's for sure!! I will probably use it a few more times and then run it across a glass bottle and go at it the right way.. I'll use your directions and really spend the necessary time it takes to get it right.. Think I'll stick to just the Naniwa 12k though.. I work for Insurance companies and Medicare driving members to and from Drs appointments,clinics, Labs, etc.. With that nasty mudder-fudder of a bug bringing almost all non emergency appointments to a screeching halt I have found I'm having a lot more time to get all my blades in order..
On that note I wish good health to everyone on this forum..Be safe, use common sense and be compliant..
Take care, Scott W

If you have a good edge, keep it and see how long it last. All I am saying is be careful of thinning the edge with too much pressure or laps.

Some hard steel can take it, many softer steels can not and chip. As I said it is not a big issue and easy fix.

Older TI’ s seemed harder and hold a good edge longer. Use the edge/corner of the stone instead of a glass bottle, the stone will cut the edge straight and you can feel if you have any chips. You don’t need a lot of pressure.

Glass will roll the edge and will cause a bur that will have to be cut off by the stone and can keep the edge off a high grit stone. Cut it off clean and make a new edge. The 12k is surprisingly aggressive.

Take a look at the micrographs that Tim posted in the linked thread below recently.

Look at the very edge of Tim Zowada’s (64hrc) hard razor. Notice how about half of the fine stria has been removed with just 40 laps on plain linen with lite laps.

Also note that not much changes further back on the bevel, the pressure is on the trailing edge.

Imagine what diamonds will do with pressure?

How effective is clean fabric?

I was looking at Tim's photos earlier today... They certainly tell a lot and appearing so simplistic.. I will take your advice and avoid the bottle roll instead using stone edge.. Thank you !
Scott W

The diamond progression thing was popular about when I began straight razor shaving.
Worked a treat if you did not overdo it, but the romance was short-lived most of the time.

Too much of a good thing seemed inevitable.
Razors developed a steep, rounded bevel which would become sorta dangerous! :eek:
TOTAL bevel job to get them right again.
Diamonds do work. Just too good? For your own good. :)

Honing is pleasant, and infrequent for touch-ups.

I've never used CrOx, or diamonds, so maybe I don't know what I'm missing.

I'm going to be going on travel for about 8 months though. Thinking about what my setup should be... thinking right now of thinning down to two or three choice razors, a good boar brush, linen & leather strop, and a barber's hone... Might stick with a JNat though and a couple of nagura... or an Ark... hmmm...

Rest assured, regardless of what you pack, the time will come when you wish you had brought one more thing.
Good luck!