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Thread: CroOx Question

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    Default CroOx Question

    Hello everyone... Hope all is well. Have a question about what Cro/Ox spray for my Streich-Riemen Loom Strop.. When i purchased this i was quite green at the whole SR thing and i without a doubt used the green pasted side in ways it was not intended so went through it fast.. I have never used a diamond spray or paste since.. So i want to use the green side leather with some finishing Cro/Ox but dont know what to get? My finishing stones are Coti & Naniwa SS 12k.. And assuming just 15 or so strokes with the Cro/Ox should be good?

    Thanks as always..
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I have some stick Chrome Oxide, I bought from SRD, years ago, that I think was from Mastro Levi, might have been Hand America. Powder from Kremer Pigment and spray from Hand America, all purchased years ago.

    I have pasted a number of strops with each of them and they all work, stick and powder are the easiest to apply. Spray is messy goes on thin, but it works.

    Before you apply any more Chrome Ox take a clean paper towel, spray some WD40 on the towel and wipe the pasted strop. Those pasted loom strops were heavily pasted, (I have removed all the paste on some old looms, it is on thick).

    The WD40 will soften the hard paste, remove all the black swarf and reposition the existing Chrome Oxide and leave a smooth new green surface.

    If you do decide to re-paste use pure or as pure as you can get Chrome Oxide, you don’t need much. My most used Chrome Ox pasted strops have not ever been re-pasted, I have lightly cleaned them with WD40.
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    @Euclid440...Thank you for the info.. I appreciate it. And yes i remember how thick the paste was.. That goes to show when i said i used it in the wrong way. I was so nervous about honing my own razors at that time i thought i could get away with using that paste to hone a razor Can i just sand that residual paste or still go with.the WD?
    Thanks

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    If you want to remove it all. Spray with WD40 and let sit a few minutes then with a metal or plastic putty knife scrape it all off.

    Clean it up residue with WD40 and paper towel. No need to sand it will all come off easily.
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    @Euclid440.... Perfect. Heading out to garage for the 40 and scaper. So i forgot that i have in my tool chest somewhere deep down in there a stick of green paste i had forgot about..It is real hard and kind of breaks/cracks off.. Now with this would i get some hot water and mix to a paste consistency then apply thinly on the leather? Thanks
    ..

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    Sounds like you are on the right path, Scott. Too much is bad.
    CroOx will smooth a toothy edge and maintain a good edge.

    Too much will create a rounded toothy edge! Back to the hones

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    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    I suggest that you not use your old bar because you do not know the grain size distribution or range. Some bars have particles as large as 6 microns.

    Your safest bet is dry powder crox of 0.3-0.5 micron size. Mix one pea size drop of oil with the same amount of crox. Then apply lightly using an x pattern. XXXXXX. Each X should be about 2" wide. Do not use the entire mixture. You should be throwing away at least half of it.

    Once applied then smear it and rub it into the leather.
    10-20 round trip laps after honing will be sufficient.
    Last edited by randydance062449; 02-23-2020 at 03:09 AM.
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    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

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    Just mixed a tiny bit of what i have up and way too gritty!. I will order some powder in a few minutes.. What kind of oil are you suggesting Randy?
    Thanks guys..

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    DOn’t cheap out. Buy the good stuff from a reputable straight razor source.

    I have a small bottle of green CrOx in oil - I think it is Thiers-Issard - that I got from The Classic Edge when I first started seriously shaving with a straight. I applied it to a balsa paddle strop over 5 years ago and haven’t had to reapply since.

    When they say a use it sparingly, take that advice. You apply a LITTLE BIT and rub it in. Then you wipe it off with a paper tower until no more comes off on the paper. That’s how little you need to charge the strop.

    I haven’t applied it to leather, but I have seen the Mastro Livi videos, and his strops are thickly coated in the stuff. Seems way too much.

    I use a coticule as my primary hone, then usually finish with a Vermio and the paddle strop with CrOx. I can maintain an edge using the CrOx for a very long time without returning to the stones.
    David
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    Puma green paste can easily be found from online vendors and it works well.
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