Thread: CroOx Question

Most any oil will work but neetsfoot oil is preferred.

Why is neetsfoot preferred?

Originally Posted by boz

Why is neetsfoot preferred?

It does not degrade and become rancid like some vegetable oils. Neetsfoot oil is derived from the hoof's and bones of animals.
Primarily horses and cows.

randydance062449 Thanks for the answer.
Al

Hi fella's.. Been quite busy the last few weeks haven't had time for the forum.. I want to thank everyone for the advice given.. I got both .25 spray and some paste.
I went with paste for the leather on my broom strop.. Well I noticed right away that doing 12-15 laps with the paste prior to linen/leather finish was turning each blade up a notch.. Took over 3yrs of being stubborn in the idea of not having to use pastes. Lol I was most pleased with the result I got with my T.I. p hospital razor.. This is my 3rd TI and without a doubt that steel has given me the most problems getting a good edge.. Frustrating to the point of they were just slot fillers.. Used the pasted strop pretty hard and heavy doing at least 50 laps before final linen n leather.. Finally received a great shave from a TI straight and was very happy!! I still need to figure out the reason why I can't get a good edge with either my Naniwa SS 12k or my coticle with these blades..
Anyway now I'm just rambling. So thanks again everyone..
Peace! Scott W

“Used the pasted strop pretty hard and heavy doing at least 50 laps before final linen n leather..”

So, be careful with pressure and or excessive laps. Diamonds are aggressive even at high grits and will quickly thin an edge.

Look at your edges with magnification before stropping on diamonds and after you will see that it quickly polishes the very edge first, with only 4-5 laps. Add pressure and it cuts quicker and deeper. You only need to polish just the edge. Once it is polished, you arer done,(5-10 laps).

It does not take much to thin an edge to the point it will fail and begin to micro chip and give a harsh shave or with weepers.

The fix is easy just joint the edge on the corner of the 12k 1 or 2 light strokes and 15-20 laps will bring the edge back. If you are having an issue with a hard edge, add an additional layer of tape and do 3-4 more lite laps to add a micro bevel, Strop on linen or leather 5-10 laps between the finish laps and the micro bevel laps for a cleaner edge.

Then do 5-10 laps on the diamonds, you should have a smoking edge. Use the diamonds sparingly and the edge should last a while.

A micro bevel is a quick and easy solution for hard or stubborn steels. Works every time, for me. Stropping prior to cutting the micro bevel cleans the edge of any possible burr or flashing so you get a nice clean edge.

This technique works even if you are not adding a micro bevel, make your finished edge, then strop and do 4-5 more laps on the finish stone with lite pressure.

Hi Euclid.. I definitely new the way I was using that paste on my P. Hospital was doing more harm in the long run than the quick satisfaction of finally getting one of those to a real nice sharpness.. This is my 3rd one and they all have given me fits that's for sure!! I will probably use it a few more times and then run it across a glass bottle and go at it the right way.. I'll use your directions and really spend the necessary time it takes to get it right.. Think I'll stick to just the Naniwa 12k though.. I work for Insurance companies and Medicare driving members to and from Drs appointments,clinics, Labs, etc.. With that nasty mudder-fudder of a bug bringing almost all non emergency appointments to a screeching halt I have found I'm having a lot more time to get all my blades in order..
On that note I wish good health to everyone on this forum..Be safe, use common sense and be compliant..
Take care, Scott W

If you have a good edge, keep it and see how long it last. All I am saying is be careful of thinning the edge with too much pressure or laps.

Some hard steel can take it, many softer steels can not and chip. As I said it is not a big issue and easy fix.

Older TI’ s seemed harder and hold a good edge longer. Use the edge/corner of the stone instead of a glass bottle, the stone will cut the edge straight and you can feel if you have any chips. You don’t need a lot of pressure.

Glass will roll the edge and will cause a bur that will have to be cut off by the stone and can keep the edge off a high grit stone. Cut it off clean and make a new edge. The 12k is surprisingly aggressive.

Take a look at the micrographs that Tim posted in the linked thread below recently.

Look at the very edge of Tim Zowada’s (64hrc) hard razor. Notice how about half of the fine stria has been removed with just 40 laps on plain linen with lite laps.

Also note that not much changes further back on the bevel, the pressure is on the trailing edge.

Imagine what diamonds will do with pressure?

How effective is clean fabric?

I was looking at Tim's photos earlier today... They certainly tell a lot and appearing so simplistic.. I will take your advice and avoid the bottle roll instead using stone edge.. Thank you !
Scott W