Strop Widths? Is wide really better than narrow ?

I may have asked this one a while back about hones and narrow vs. wide.

I know most people seem to go for really wide strops but what are your reasons for this?

Most would agree the X-pattern is the way to go so why not a 2 1/2" or even a 2" as many European strops are?

Dovo and Jemico products mostly range from 1 1/2" to 2" with each offering a single 3" or so model.

Illinois has 2", 2 1/4" (835?) and 2 1/2" models. Most vintage USA based models I have seen or owned were 2 1/2".

A 3" is perfect for those who want an easy straight up and back stroke and my guess is that is why Dovo and Jemico started doing it...or maybe our USA, "bigger is better" mentality.

I have talked with a few fellows who would really like a European style 2" wide strop.

My personal tastes are with 2 1/2" models. You have to do an X-pattern on them and I simply like the proportion of them....long and quite narrow just looks "right" to me.

I know some will argue that wider may cup easier than narrow but much of that seems to be related to materials rather than width. Oil/waxed/cordovan type tans seem to resist moisture enough they don't move much due to humidity and stay flat. If they do curl they are moldable enough you can correct them easy enough. Natural tanned leathers seem to want to cup as soon as it gets humid . Support hardware on each ends helps a little but it is a long distance down the length of a strop and the hardware really only supports the last few inches.

So.....why wide for you or why narrow?

Tony

I used a 2 1/2 for many years, and when I found this sight I decided to try a new strop, so I bought a Tony Miller 3 inch wide strop! It was a beautiful piece of work, but I quickly reverted back to a 2 1/2 model! It seems an easier size to deal with, it forces an X pattern, which assures good contact all the way across the blade!

When I built mine, I made sure it wa 3" so I wouldn't have to do an x-pattern. Seems to be working just fine.

2-2,5" is just about my size as - just like JMS - it forces me to use an X-pattern which will make sure I catch every part of the blade - even on "smiling" ones.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by marosell

When I built mine, I made sure it wa 3" so I wouldn't have to do an x-pattern. Seems to be working just fine.

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I didn't actually go back to the 2 1/2 because it made better contact, I went back because I kept doing the x pattern anyways and realized quickly that I just prefer the 2 1/2 model!
I still use the 3 inch model, but only for knives!

I did always wonder how many guys made their first nicks on a strop trying to learn the X-pattern. The sliding side to side, coordinationing with stopping the strop, rolling the blade, sliding, etc.... vs. up and back which may be a much more simple motion.

I remember "The Great Experiment" about stropping, etc.... maybe there is another Great Experiment brewing out there...X-pattern vs. up and back only.

Tony

I've tried a variety of sizes and the width never really seemed to matter much to the razor. Narrow strops (like short strops) need more laps to get the job done, but this doesn't really seem to be much of a factor until you get down to the 1 1/2" width.

Now on paddle strops I definitely prefer the 3" or 2 3/4 " widths, but on hanging strops the natural flexibility seems to make them more forgiving of sleepy stropping.

mparker762
Electric Razor Aficionado


Huh ??!!


Tony

How do you stop those electrics? x-pattern? :D

I am a new TM owner (won it at the SE get together, Thanks again Tony!). I have an Illinois 827 russian imperial (about 2.5") and the TM is a 3" buffed horsehide/linen. I started out going up and back on the Illinois as I had a shorter bladed razor and it worked out fine. As I learned to refine my stropping and acquired different razors, I started using the X-pattern. Now that I have the 3" strop, I still use the X-pattern but it is shallower. I am still learning to read the feedback on the horsehide as it has much less draw than the russian imperial. I feel as though both have different uses and I am not sure that the width matters too much to my results. I do now angle the blade about 10-15 degrees heel to toe when I strop and still use the X-pattern regardless of the width. I think I will try and teach myself to strop left handed and use the other edge of my strops too, that may be the way for me to realize the true potential of having a wider strop. Kind of like rotating my tires, no? :hmmm:

Just rambling thoughts as always...

Nope, I always strop my Electrics in a straight line. Up and down on a 3" wide strop, and diagonally across on a narrower one.

From Uniclectica:

ELECTRIC
Used by Friedman & Lauterjung, New York City ca. 1873-1890. Moved to Newark, New Jersey from ca 1890-1910. Moved to Walden, New York ca. 1910-1920

Too cool.. thanks.

I own a TM Latigo 2 1/2 with linen; I didn't order the practising strop and stropped straight ahead with an X pattern. I must say that I nicked it a few times, but nothing deep and always at the beginning or at the end of the stroke - so as long as I don't nick it in the centre, I can decrease the stropping area. Maybe this wouldn't have happen with a 3" as it seems to result from a bad orientation of the leather when stropping.

But more stropping, the better the technique... and the strop will survive with some character and wounds - I don't nick it any more. And - if I am not mistaken - one could order the strop parts separately from Tony and replace only the leather side... or buy a horsehide new strop... or why not a horsehide/latigo and a cotton/linen :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ockham

And - if I am not mistaken - one could order the strop parts separately from Tony and replace only the leather side... or buy a horsehide new strop... or why not a horsehide/latigo and a cotton/linen :p

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Yep, available as replacements. I do all those combos at time.


Tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sicboater

I think I will try and teach myself to strop left handed and use the other edge of my strops too, that may be the way for me to realize the true potential of having a wider strop. Kind of like rotating my tires, no? :hmmm:

Just rambling thoughts as always...

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Yikes! I better start on that replacement horsehide piece on Monday :)


Tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tony Miller

Yikes! I better start on that replacement horsehide piece on Monday :)


Tony

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HA! I DO have the practice strop! No worries Tony! :roflmao

:OTI was wondering if there was a way to increase the draw on the buffed Horsehide without changing the surface texture. Any thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JMS

I used a 2 1/2 for many years, and when I found this sight I decided to try a new strop, so I bought a Tony Miller 3 inch wide strop! It was a beautiful piece of work, but I quickly reverted back to a 2 1/2 model! It seems an easier size to deal with, it forces an X pattern, which assures good contact all the way across the blade!

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+1

I only have a TM 2.5 but I totally agree. The width makes you pay attention to your blade contact and stropping technique. I usually strop with the x-pattern, heel leading and the 2.5 inches seems the perfect size for this.

Previous to my Tony Miller 3" wide strop, I had been using a Dovo 2" wide strop - which, granted, forced me to learn and use the x-pattern strop technique. That said, I prefer the 3" wide model because I believe it supports the blade better and doesn't allow for any rocking side-to-side. My shaves have been greatly improved since the arrival of my new strop, and I couldn't think to go to anything narrower (or wider) from now on. I'm 100% sold on the 3" wide strops.

Mark

Same experience as Mark.

I used a 2" Russian Dovo for years and then I purchased a 3" ,"Old Dog Hand American" strop.

The 3" works better IMHO. It's not just the width, I think the length of at least 24" usable strop also matters.

I'd actually rate the size of the strop as more important than the type of the leather.

I suppose if you have short arms or long arms it must make a difference.

I use an old Red Imp 2 1/2 and a 3" horse/latigo. I start out on the red imp's linen and leather and go to the latigo and then the smooth horse. I suppose I would have been fine with the Tony Miller strop being 2 1/2 but I like the 3" width and the strop is luxurious. Unusual to find a modern product that exceeds the quality of the vintage examples but Tony has done it IMO.

English,
An interesting point is strop length. I have made long ones and short ones and have settled on a 17" to 18" usable stropping surface in a 24" to 29" length as working well for most. I find an overly long strop seems to have more side to side swing in use and I feel as if I have less control. Too short and I feel my stroke is hindered a bit at each end.

As a comparison I am 6' 6" tall with long arms (36" sleeve on a dress shirt) and the 17-18" length feels about right to me.

Tony

Tony,

I wouldn't disagree with what you say at all and I do agree that a longer strop does tend to swing and twist.

What I have enjoyed about the long length of leather is the ease of getting a bit of speed up on the strop.

It's a bit like you can go faster if the road is longer.

In practical term though, I don't know that the blade is any sharper as a result and that is what really matters.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tony Miller

As a comparison I am 6' 6" tall with long arms (36" sleeve on a dress shirt) and the 17-18" length feels about right to me.

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Wow! I'm only 6'1" tall, but I wear 37" sleeves on a long-sleeved shirt... and my knuckles don't drag :p

(and I prefer 3" strops)

English,
I do agree that shorther does slow one down a bit as one needs to mind the ends whether leather caps as on mine or bare metal on others.

Each step is a trade off and I switch favorites quite often.

Quite honestly if I were to only make what I wanted it would be a 2 1/2" Artisan, either buffed horse or Red Latigo and my 4 sided paddle. To me this is all anyone needs if you want my favorites..........But, the public likes wide, still it seems...and some like dees, some linen, etc.....

(To round out the store: For pure honing I'd still sell the vintage NOS 2 1/2" x 5" Thuringens. For razors, well, the least expensive Dovo that still gave me a natural handle material like wood or horn or bone and a Rooney No.1 Finest Badger.)

Tony

I prefer 1 1/4" to 2" wide strops. I seem to get better results with them. My favorite strop is a piece of hand selected latigo 1 3/4" wide with a grommet in one end of it. My second favorite is an old Torrey "stretcher" type that is 1 1/4" wide.

I have had several hangers of 2 1/2" or better, but gave all but one away.

I can't see width making any diff to the quality of edge you get only the ease with wich you get that result :)

I prefer a 2.5" strop, only because I can get away with less X motion :) A 2" strop has more control for my taste and the 3" inhibits stropping selected areas by running the risk of grazing from toeing or heeling the razor. That said, all will strop a razor to the same end result.

PuFF

i started with a 2.5 in ilinois. i liked it. then i got a 2.75 russian superior. i really like it. the biggest difference i like is not the width, but the length. 17 inches vs 21ish(have not measured.)

and i have some old 1.5 in paddles with padded leather on 2 sides and a hone on the 3rd. i liked this for the pastes. doing 10 laps on this is much less intrusive than 10 laps on my russian. my other favorite strop is a home made 2 side paddle. 18 inches of leather long, 1.75 inches wide. one side plain, one side cro ox. that thing is golden. that is what i finish honing on before my hanging strop.

vgod