Thread: Strop Widths? Is wide really better than narrow ?

I may have asked this one a while back about hones and narrow vs. wide.

I know most people seem to go for really wide strops but what are your reasons for this?

Most would agree the X-pattern is the way to go so why not a 2 1/2" or even a 2" as many European strops are?

Dovo and Jemico products mostly range from 1 1/2" to 2" with each offering a single 3" or so model.

Illinois has 2", 2 1/4" (835?) and 2 1/2" models. Most vintage USA based models I have seen or owned were 2 1/2".

A 3" is perfect for those who want an easy straight up and back stroke and my guess is that is why Dovo and Jemico started doing it...or maybe our USA, "bigger is better" mentality.

I have talked with a few fellows who would really like a European style 2" wide strop.

My personal tastes are with 2 1/2" models. You have to do an X-pattern on them and I simply like the proportion of them....long and quite narrow just looks "right" to me.

I know some will argue that wider may cup easier than narrow but much of that seems to be related to materials rather than width. Oil/waxed/cordovan type tans seem to resist moisture enough they don't move much due to humidity and stay flat. If they do curl they are moldable enough you can correct them easy enough. Natural tanned leathers seem to want to cup as soon as it gets humid . Support hardware on each ends helps a little but it is a long distance down the length of a strop and the hardware really only supports the last few inches.

So.....why wide for you or why narrow?

Tony

I used a 2 1/2 for many years, and when I found this sight I decided to try a new strop, so I bought a Tony Miller 3 inch wide strop! It was a beautiful piece of work, but I quickly reverted back to a 2 1/2 model! It seems an easier size to deal with, it forces an X pattern, which assures good contact all the way across the blade!

When I built mine, I made sure it wa 3" so I wouldn't have to do an x-pattern. Seems to be working just fine.

2-2,5" is just about my size as - just like JMS - it forces me to use an X-pattern which will make sure I catch every part of the blade - even on "smiling" ones.

Originally Posted by marosell

When I built mine, I made sure it wa 3" so I wouldn't have to do an x-pattern. Seems to be working just fine.

I didn't actually go back to the 2 1/2 because it made better contact, I went back because I kept doing the x pattern anyways and realized quickly that I just prefer the 2 1/2 model!
I still use the 3 inch model, but only for knives!

I did always wonder how many guys made their first nicks on a strop trying to learn the X-pattern. The sliding side to side, coordinationing with stopping the strop, rolling the blade, sliding, etc.... vs. up and back which may be a much more simple motion.

I remember "The Great Experiment" about stropping, etc.... maybe there is another Great Experiment brewing out there...X-pattern vs. up and back only.

Tony

I've tried a variety of sizes and the width never really seemed to matter much to the razor. Narrow strops (like short strops) need more laps to get the job done, but this doesn't really seem to be much of a factor until you get down to the 1 1/2" width.

Now on paddle strops I definitely prefer the 3" or 2 3/4 " widths, but on hanging strops the natural flexibility seems to make them more forgiving of sleepy stropping.

mparker762
Electric Razor Aficionado


Huh ??!!


Tony

How do you stop those electrics? x-pattern?

I am a new TM owner (won it at the SE get together, Thanks again Tony!). I have an Illinois 827 russian imperial (about 2.5") and the TM is a 3" buffed horsehide/linen. I started out going up and back on the Illinois as I had a shorter bladed razor and it worked out fine. As I learned to refine my stropping and acquired different razors, I started using the X-pattern. Now that I have the 3" strop, I still use the X-pattern but it is shallower. I am still learning to read the feedback on the horsehide as it has much less draw than the russian imperial. I feel as though both have different uses and I am not sure that the width matters too much to my results. I do now angle the blade about 10-15 degrees heel to toe when I strop and still use the X-pattern regardless of the width. I think I will try and teach myself to strop left handed and use the other edge of my strops too, that may be the way for me to realize the true potential of having a wider strop. Kind of like rotating my tires, no?

Just rambling thoughts as always...