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07-30-2008, 04:50 PM #1
Getting some free Hand America Horse leather and need to make a strop
Hey guys, I've been reading everything I can for the past couple of days ever since finding out about the site from a friend over at Knifeforums.com, and I'm really digging all the info on this site.
I've never used a straight razor before, but I'd like to get started. A different friend on knife forums is sending me a piece of Keith's (the owner of Hand America) horse leather, and it's approx. 3" x 24", and another piece that's 6" x 14". I'll be using the 6x14 piece to make a bench strop (I guess the term on this forum is paddle strop) to use with my chromium oxide, which will be 3x11. I'll have some left over from that piece.
The 3x24 piece I'll use for making a hanging strop, and I'll be taking some of the left over pieces from the bench strop to make the two "end pieces", which will be riveted to the leather on either end, that hold the D rings and the clip.
With the horse leather, will I have to "break in" the leather with pumice as I've read?
Also, if anyone can point me in the direction of an online vendor where I can buy top quality D rings, the "chicago screws", and other associated hardware, I'd very much appreciate it.
If anyone would like to sell one of their "practice strops", please PM me.
Any and all info to get started is welcome!
Thanks again,
Ben RivenbarkLast edited by Ben325e; 07-30-2008 at 05:08 PM. Reason: just couldn't leave well enough alone!
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07-30-2008, 05:34 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
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- 3,446
Thanked: 416I buy my D rings and stuff at my local western tack store you might try there first.
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07-30-2008, 05:35 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
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- St. Paul, MN, USA
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Thanked: 335Or Tandy Leather Co.
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07-31-2008, 01:05 AM #4
I don't think you really need to break in a strop. Years ago I used to think you did and used the rolling pin and glass bottle trick but these days I realize it isn't necessary. Unless you get some cheapo strop with leather like cardboard which you will not have with a handamerica Horsehide.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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07-31-2008, 02:36 AM #5
The blade of your hand rubbed up and down the strop before use will heat it up a little and give you a good, flat, clean surface to strop with.
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07-31-2008, 03:32 AM #6
Is the leather still in it's "raw" state? Meaning, has it been finished/sanded yet? If not, then it's probably the same Hand American horsehide that I was able to get from Hand American a few months back. I got 3 of the horse butt strips (what's left over after the "shells" are removed. These strips were approx 5' long and at their thickest point approx 12". The grain side of this leather IMO is not suitable for making a fine leather strop and the "flesh" side as it's called (the side with a high suede nap) is also quite rough.
The grain side on these strips have a fair amount of fat wrinkles, scars, bumps, etc. Don't get me wrong, it's great leather that's as tough as nails. I've cut all strips to 24" by 2.5" and have probably 8-9 strips?
Long lead in, I know, but in answer to your question, IF your leather is in the same natural state as the horsehide I have, you'd be better off hand finishing the surface. I used a flat sanding block and 150-200 grit sandpaper (not wet/dry as it loads too quickly for this, but the regular sandpaper). Sand, sand and sand and sand some more. This gave me additional respect for Tony Miller and Kenrup. Hand finishing a strop to get an utterly silky surface (which I have) is HARD WORK and takes a lot of time. Also, this leather can be a bit wavy; more than I'd like. It needs to be flattened as a final step. The results though are fabulous. I'll try and post a few pics.
Chris L"Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
"Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith