slightly off-topic...because I'm interested in this exact thing.
what tutorial? I've been looking for a good video tutorial of how to paste a strop and even in my short time here I've learned that Lynn is a few kinds of awesome.
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slightly off-topic...because I'm interested in this exact thing.
what tutorial? I've been looking for a good video tutorial of how to paste a strop and even in my short time here I've learned that Lynn is a few kinds of awesome.
I saw it a while ago, I believe it's part of the Wiki content.
This paste or crayon is actually quite good. I just rub it on the linen until you start to see the color on the linen. Don't cake it on. Once it's covered, then just 10-15 very light strokes and it should wake up the razor. Actually sometimes, just 5 strokes will work, so try less first.
Have fun,
Lynn
thank you Lynn. Will do!
Yeah..I must agree with Lynn...don't cake it on. One time I put Chrom-Oxde. on my linen strop, and at first I didn't use enough paste...so afterwards, I put it on fairly heavy...and boy-oh-boy did I regret it. For one, it removed so much metal that it actually dulled the razor. And in fact, I could actually see the removal of the metal with every few laps. A lesson learned!
I've had a love hate relationship with CrO. I have tried it on leather and hard linen with pretty good results, but I am very content with liquid CrO painted on balsa. It has a nice feel and you can stroke it as you would your hone. As already mentioned, start with fewer strokes and light pressure, then leather strop and HHT or ST. Go again if it needs more. I can go several months this way before honing the edge again.
I have a related question. when using Cro-Ox should you tape the spine to protect it like you would on a hone? If you use a layer of tape when honing do you use a layer of tape to keep the angle the same on Cro-Ox?
Tape is only needed if you have the CrOx on balsa IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbbabson
This is actually a very good question.
You should typically use the same method (angle) that you were using on the stone, especially if you are trying to protect an ornate spine. However, at 0.5 microns CrO averages around 30,000 grit +/-?K. This is a very fine polish indeed and will probably just create a mirror finish on your spine. The other reason tape may not be critical is the pliability of the medium (i.e. leather, linen, paddle or balsa). By the way, on balsa I have never been left with a green residue on the blade - very clean medium. With or without tape, even with a light touch you should get pretty good coverage at the edge. OK, I have tried it both ways and found little difference. :D
I actually find that both .5 diamond and chromium oxide work best for me on the rock hard wool on the paddle, bench or hanging strop. The natural cushion of this material is perfect and normally 5-10 strokes is all you need. I have used this for thousands of razors with great results and not found the need to tape.
Have fun.
Lynn,
I applied it on my linen strop in an x pattern. It feels like concrete. Did I lay it on too heavy? Or should it just be "faintly" (if that's a word, I think you get my meaning) applied?
You should only put enough on to see the color on the linen. It should not feel any different than just the linen. You might want to scrape a little off before using it with something like a butter knife.Quote:
Originally Posted by cflaageriv
Sorry, but I'd like to ask for a little clarification. I don't mean to interrupt this thread, but as I read this and being not all that familiar with CrOx, (this is a beginner's question), when it's applied to a strop, don't you stroke and lead with the the spine, like regular stropping? Do you lead with the edge when it's on balsa?Quote:
It has a nice feel and you can stroke it as you would your hone.
Thanks very much for any clarification. I'm thinking of making a balsa pasted strop.
Always spine leading like stropping for sure. Doesn't matter if it's on a strop or balsa.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsCool
If you hone with tape, and try and use the CrOx on balsa without tape you will not be touching the edge. You will be at a flatter angle and polish behind the edge.
Not to get off the subject but, for clarification, when you apply paste to balsa should you be using as if it's a hone, i.e., leading with the edge? I had no idea if that's the case. I mean, I read somewhere here that chro-oxde is abt. the equivelant of b/w 30k and 60k grit...so that would make sense, if that's the case.
See two posts above yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by cflaageriv
Thanks Blix, that's what I thought anyway. I read the message above those two...that'll learn me. If you don't mind me asking, what (other) benefit(s) does one get when using a balsa strop? When I first tried a pasted strop, I immediately noticed the effect. I just can't imagine there being any 'other' benefit w/ balsa. Unless, of course, the user is putting diamond paste on it - which rumor has it, is worth every cent.
I use both 1.0 diamond and .5 CrO2 on hard felt. I ordered a strop from SRD with two felt pieces. One is now a faint gray, and one a medium green color. These are my finishing "hones" and I like them very much in that role. After my 4k/8k routine with tape, I pull the tape and do 10 on the diamond and 15 on the CrO2. For touch ups, I typically do 5 on the diamond and 10 on the CrO2.
here's a related question: can I apply chromium oxide paste to one side of my linen strop, keep the other side clean, and use them both? my strop comes apart and I can reassemble it with either side out, so it seems like a fine idea to get the most options from my equipment. any reason this wouldn't work? or if I had to choose, would you recommend that I keep the clean linen or paste it, and why?
I imagine you'll get some advice not to do this, but I don't know why you couldn't. I contemplated pasting one side of my canvas. The only reason I didn't was because I knew I wanted both 1.0 and .5 pastes, so I bought a new strop with two pieces of felt. In fact, I thought about getting one piece of felt and pasting both sides of it, then getting a different leather for the top. In the end, I liked having a deadicated piece of felt for each paste, and I did not want to take my strop apart every time I wanted to use paste.
I think if you are careful about contanimation of your leather, or the "dry" side of the felt, you should have no problem pasting on side of the felt. I would hope before anyone says not to do it, their comment is based on actual experience.
Good luck, and let us know how it works if you try it.
--David