Linseed Oil on Strops?

[Jimbo]

Has anyone used Linseed (is that the same as Flax?) oil as a strop conditioner? I got a tip that it can be used to treat leather. I've only ever used it on wood (cricket bats, actually). Anyone had any experience with it?

[Howard Wallace]

Linseed oil is flax oil, although the linseed oil you get from the hardware store has other chemical additives too. Boiled linseed oil will polymerize easily. This makes it turn into a hard, plastic-like substance. I think unboiled linseed oil also polymerizes, although much more slowly. This polymerization may make it unsuitable for use on a strop. I don't think I'd risk it on a good strop.

[Jimbo]

Thanks. Thought it sounded a bit strange. I'll stick to my dovo paste.

James.

[FiReSTaRT]

How about scales?

[xman]

Linseed oil is an excellent product for preserving wood, but I believe it needs to keep being applied over the life of the wood.

X

[Jimbo]

Yes, that's my experience - fairly regular re-application on wood.

[FiReSTaRT]

I checked and Truoil's key component is linseed. Here's the description straight from the manufacturer:

TRU-OIL Gun Stock Finish is the professional's choice for gunstock (or furniture) finishing for more than 30 years. Its unique blend of linseed and natural oils dries fast and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age and resists water damage. TRU-OIL Gun Stock Finish penetrates deeply and forms a tough, clear, hard finish that protects and enhances the beauty of fine woods. For a hand rubbed, satin luster, simply buff with steel wool and rubbing compound or use Stock Sheen & Conditioner. Excellent as a sealer for under butt plates, recoil pads and in inletted actions to prevent stock damage. Use the liquid for fast filling of the pores and the aerosol for the final finish.

How frequent would reapplications need to be if I started off with 5 coats and a wax buffing?

[ForestryProf]

TruOil is a varnish. As such it produces a film finish and will not need to be refreshed unless you wear through or scratch the surface. It offers substantially more protection than an oil finish which will penetrate the wood, but offers little or no surface protection from scratches or abrasion.

Just another data point,
Ed

[Howard Wallace]

I checked and Truoil's key component is linseed. Here's the description straight from the manufacturer:

How frequent would reapplications need to be if I started off with 5 coats and a wax buffing?

The old adage I remember for linseed oil is:

once a day for a week
once a week for a month
once a month for a year
once a year for forever

That said, I usually don't put that much work into it. My garden tools and kitchen knives get oiled about once a year, floors every year or two, the old pre-64 model 70 every few years or if it gets rained on too badly. The essential idea is frequent coats at first to soak in and fill the pores. The way my dad taught me was to rub the oil in with my hands until it absorbed.

If the razor slabs get soaking wet frequently you would probably have to reapply more often. I applied a linseed oil finish on the walnut stock of the old model 70 270 in about '76. It was nice looking and only got oiled every few years. After it got soaked for several hours in a PNW dounpour in the Cascades around 2000 it definately needed another oil treatment. I didn't have a wax coating on it though.

[FiReSTaRT]

Thank you gentlemen. I'll probably be picking it up tomorrow.