I don't see where that would make any difference since I believe both sides would need stropping rather than just the hollow ground side.
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...I thought of it to even the wear on the edges of the strop; but it's easier to just turn the strop upside down. Head stands could work, too.
This is assuming that you start with the blade the full width on the strop. Assuming that you are right handed why not start with mostly the heel on the strop to the left side coming to full strop/razor contact at mid stroke. This would create the most even contact duration for each area of the blade and create an X pattern of wear on the strop.
But that would cause any blade with a stabilizer to drag a gouge into the strop. I think the stroke has to begin with the blade as far to the left as possibly can be done with the stabilizer still remaining just to the right of the right side of the strop.
With a 3" strop and a 3" blade why use an X Stroke?