I've got a blade that maintain on .5 Crox, .25 CBN, and .1 FeOx. No linen or leather, just pasted strops.
The shave is a bit prickly, but not as much as I feared. And 1 pass is all I need to match a 2 pass shave with (most) any other razor. It's been an interesting little experiment. I need a better strop for my FeOx though, I think it could get much better with a higher quality linen/fabric.
Its good to hear this. Good luck with your experiments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshal
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I concur 100%Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel
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Hi sorry for digging up this slightly old thread but I am trying to find this pellon paper online and noticed there are different kinds and different gsm weights.. could you please say which one it is that you use or even better send a link to it as I'm a bit confused. Tyvm, mike
Mikey, my wife pick up a yard for me yesterday @ $2.97 per yard. In the sewing/tailor business they call it " interfacing " . Any place that sells fabric ( Walmart, Joann's , Hobby Lobby ) has it. Very common. No idea of the weight but I can ask The Good Lady then evening.
Mikey
Pellon is a brand name of an interfacing. Used in sewing to stiffen fabric components, commonly shirt collars, pockets and shirt front plackets.
It is also sold, one side impregnated with heat activated fusing glue, do not buy that one. Get the plain interfacing, does not have to be the Pellon brand.
It is a paper/fabric like Tyvek but comes in different weights and can be cut with out finishing the edges and will not fray, like denim or other fabrics.
Canvas also will not fray, it has the extra thread in the weave that locks the threads together, which is why it is used for Sails. Sailcloth is a Polyester thread Canvas, as opposed to regular Canvas that is woven from Cotton or Flax.
I have never used silkscreen cloth but did try silk and it worked but frayed too much, and silk does not like water. A distilled water, misted CBN strop will produce a finer finish and edge. Particles in tap or well water are larger that Nano grits.
You can buy Pellon at Wal-Mart or any fabric store, experiment with weights just make sure not to buy the one with fusing.
When you are using Nano grits, (sub one micron) contaminates that are inherent in some substrates, like wood, leather or vintage flax strops are larger than the paste/spray and will scratch the bevel and edge defeating the whole point.
.010 um CBN is about 160,000 grit equivalent. .50um CBN will remove almost all stria visible at 400X, from a 12k edge, with 50-75 laps. When you are making large grit jumps, a progression is easier on an edge and can prevent micro chipping, I usually go from a 20K stone to .50um, (30K) then .25um, (60K) and finish on .125, (120K) or .010um CBN. A .50um to .125um jump is easily done with a properly honed 8-12k edge. A 20k is easier.
As with any honing/finishing, the finish is only as good as the lower grit preparation/progression. In other words, if you still have 1k stria on the bevel, CBN will not polish the bevel stria free and straighten the edge, it is good but not magic.
A bottle of CBN is a lifetime supply, a Pellon CBN strop will last years, it will become contaminated by airborne dust long before it stops cutting.
The smaller the grit, the smaller the stria and the straighter/smoother the edge, but there are limits. The steel, edge geometry, and your skin…
Lastly you do not need a stria free, mirror bevel to get the benefit from a CBN strop. Almost any number of laps will improve, polish, straighten and smooth an edge, it all depends on all the other factors listed above, and the most important one, the user.
Enjoy
Welcome back Marty. Long time, no see.
Thank you Marty, its great to read your invaluable information again.
Thanks for the information very helpful
Is there a reason not to buy the one with fusing? Only I was considering making a flat strop as well for my knives and figured I might be able to use that fusing to stick it to the backing, would that be a problem?
Thanks again :)