Thread: "Proper" Width of a Strop?

I bought a strip of leather from a leather worker, and I got it cut 4" Wide, 36" long. In retrospect, I should have done some more research, and gotten a more useful size.

Either way, I was going to make the strop 4 inches wide, so that I don't have to worry about an "X" Pattern. Although, it seems like all other strops are approximately 2 1/2, 3 inches?

I'm just wondering if there's any benefit to making a strop thinner as opposed to wider (Or what width would you specifically suggest?)

Most razors are 3" or less so this is usually the max thickness that strops come in. You are right in that by using a wider strop you won't have to use an X stroke which is the appeal of a 3" strop but 4" is really too large as there is no added benefit to the extra width and you potentially have a greater risk of the strop cupping. I've seen other strops as narrow a 2" which requires a fairly sever X stroke but I believe a 2.5" is historically the width of choice. Thinner has less of a potential to cup while also being the most economical other than that I can't see any reason for a thinner strop.

I personally believe that there is a lot of benefit in doing some X stroke during stropping. The strops I make are 2.5" wide, and I believe that is the optimal width, not being too narrow, but still allowing for some X during the stroke. it also reduces the chances of cupping, etc, which can happen more easily on the wider strops.

Historically strops were generally narrower, usually closer to the 2" mark. The 3" strop is a fairly new invention.

The wider the strop the more chance for cupping. X strokes are always good. It's better to learn the right way and not use a wide strop as a crutch. Some do prefer wider and that's fine but one you learn to do it the classic way the width does not matter.

Originally Posted by thehekler

You potentially have a greater risk of the strop cupping

+1 I had to learn this as well. My 3" wide strop cupps while my 6.6 cm does not. So many times men on this site have suggested the importance of learning how to strop and hone with an "X" stroke. Their suggestion is invaluable. It has taken me some time to appreciate it.

Since you've used chicago screws (smart man) I would suggest that you replace the rawhide lace for Dee rings at both ends and re-attach your lace to one of those. While you have it in bits I would also suggest approaching a leather worker or Saddlers shop to see if they have what is called a 'leather splitter' on hand. Running the leather through the splitter and removing some of the flesh side of the leather will give the strop an even thickness and may fix those hills and valleys for you.
Apart from that I would suggest appling some leather treatment and running the leather over a smooth 90 degree angle or a glass bottle to help with that bumpy-ness.
Good luck, and next strop measure and mark where the rivet holes are going to go before punching them out.


Mick

Should have paid more attention to the photo's. Legion suggested that metal part as a handle, I'll back him up on that suggestion and just get something like a Dee for the other end.

The "leather splitter" refered to is called skiver by the leather and other industries. The verb is: to skive.

Originally Posted by nipper

The "leather splitter" refered to is called skiver by the leather and other industries. The verb is: to skive.

Quite possibly nipper has it right as it applies to your own country However here in Australia and I daresay most other parts of the world, skiving is a similar but different technique to splitting and in the leather industry you will be looking for a leather splitter for the task I mentioned. Skiving, as such, is more a beveling of the edges rather than taking off leather on a larger scale. Splitting will take off the the entire width of the strap, to the depth you want, in one go. You can split with a well honed knife (I'm talking cut-throat razor sharp here. Literally!) and some practice, but a dedicated splitter will do the job with less fuss and no practice. You can buy hand skivers, but they won't measure up to the width your trying to thin down and the blades are curved, taking a deeper bite from the centre than the edges. I would look at going to a saddler's shop or similar (Shoe makers may help) and asking them to split the leather until it was even across the entire length.
My statement is based on years of leather working experience, making whips, knife sheathes, pouches, necklaces etc, and most recently, though usually not necessary for the task, strop making.


Mick

Well, I took the advice on using a triangle bracket for the top portion. I couldn't be bothered to shop around for one, so I bought some 3/16 cold rolled steel, and used my oxy/acet torch to make one, turned out great.



My apologies for the blurry picture. I then just tied some rawhide to the other side to make a handle.



I was able to get most of the ridges out by burnishing the leather with a wine bottle. Thanks for the advice, everything turned out great.

Next project is to make that 1.5inch strop, and I might back the 2.5 one with linen eventually. Is there a specific type of linen to use, and how would you affix it to the back of the leather?

4" is probably a bit too wide.

I have an SRD 3" black latigo and a 2.5" roo hide from MickR. Both of these widths work very well for me and I wouldnt want anything wider. I dont need to do an X at all on the 3" and only a very slight one on the 2.5", and I definately wouldnt say either of those strops are tricky to use.

I started out on a 2" Dorko strop and I got used to the X stroke after about 3 shaves as well. Its quite an easy motion!

But I think you might find a 4" strop a little too wide perhaps.