Need Advice on Oil Finishes

[diyguy]

Do you guys have any tips on speeding up the process for finishing scales with oil?

I like the look of oil finished scales (been using Tru-oil) and I like the easy maintenance of oil finishes, but the process is time consuming.

Based on my informal perusal of woodworking sites across the internet, most sources recommend 8-10 coats for a high gloss finish. One source recommended 17 coats! The Tru-oil bottle says that the oil will dry in 2 hours, but I’ve found that this estimate is wishful thinking. I can apply a coat in the morning and maybe a coat at night for two coats a day at most. It’s also recommended that the last coat cure for a few days before buffing (some recommend a full week of cure time). At this rate, it’s easily taking me a week or more to get 10 coats properly applied.

Accordingly, I’ve experimented with soaking with a 50/50% mix of oil/turpentine. I’ve tried experimenting with using the 50/50% mix for all coats. I’ve tried applying coats when the previous coat is not 100% dry in an effort to “double” up the applications. I’ve tried experimenting with hand buffing each coat dry to the touch a few minutes after each application. In the end, the process still takes a while.

Anyhow, I’m curious how you pros apply their oil finishes (how many coats, exact process, etc.)?

Thanks a million!

[gssixgun]

Yeah that is about my speed, 3 coats a day... one before work, one after work and one if by chance the dogs wake me up to go out at around 2 am...

The only thing I do at the start is to always do an Acetone wipe down before I start, and I always do one wash coat sometimes two, a wash coat is the 50/50 mix with Mineral Spirits... As to how many coats, that actually varies on the wood itself, some wood as little as 3 some as many as 12, very rarely more than that. When you get the perfect final coat then just learn to stop

The only difference is that many of us that do this professionally are working on multiple razors at a time, so the waiting game isn't as bad because we have another razor to mess with

[pixelfixed]

Try cutting your oil 50/50 with lighter fluid (naptha) I use artist grade (clear) linseed oil.
Should work with Tung also

[fast14riot]

Well there is a solution for you! ArmorAll (the car shine stuff) works as a catalyst for Tru-Oil. I have applied 2 dozen coats in one day with this method.

I usually do the first coat as normal, then spray the scales with ArmorAll and wipe off the excess. Immediately apply your next drop of Tru-Oil and rub it in vigorously with the grain until it smooths out and gets hard, about 5 minutes. Spray with armorall again and repeat. Subsequent coats will go faster. If you are applying finish to an oily wood like cocobolo it will not work, they generally don't need an oil finish. Practice on a piece of scrap to try it out before you do any scales. With open grain woods, apply the first coat of oil with sandpaper going across the grain lightly and the slurry will fill the grain. I have done rifle stocks this way with great results.

With your 50/50 mix try adding an equal part of beeswax to help it out. Also I like to do a light rub down with 0000 steel wool between coats, it helps with adhesion.

HTH

-Xander

[diyguy]

Thanks, guys. I never heard of the ArmorAll solution -- I will have to research that one. Thanks for the tip.

Another thought I had is to do fully submerged long-term soaks (say overnight or 24 hours) with the 50/50% mix to create a solid base to start with. The long soak coat would presumably take longer to dry, but the idea is that the solid base would allow for fewer coats in the long run???? Has anyone tried this?

[fast14riot]

Here is the last rifle stock I did with this method. I have since cut the shine back with steel wool, it made the metal look worse than it was! But good results aren't hard to achieve with this method.



Since you already have the Tru-Oil and most likely have some ArmorAll in the garage, it is cheap to try out for yourself. I recommend this method to most anyone trying for a quick durable finish. It can be touched up exactly the same way at any time down the road, just like plain Tru-Oil as we'll.


-Xander

[diyguy]

Thanks again for the tip, Xander. I'll have to give this a whirl - that finish looks nice.

[Pete_S]

I think Tru oil is actually a varnish, despite its name.

[jerrybyers]

Tru-Oil is a varnish. I use it all the time to restore gun stocks and grips. My first coat is heavy and sometimes with a slurry to fill the holes. I let that dry completely and then sand it back. The following coats are thin and get thinner after subsequent coats. I'm able to do two coats a day. Thinner coats take less time to dry. Be sure to smooth the surface with steel wool between coats - and clean the surface before applying another coat. Take your time and give it time to cure. It's not a lacquer, the oil only assists with applying the shellac; a good coat requires you to lay down the shellac, not pile it on.

[diyguy]

I think Tru oil is actually a varnish, despite its name.

Thanks, Pete. Some Google searching reveiled that Tru-oil is 56% thinner, 33% oil based varnish, and 11% linseed oil. If Mr. Google is correct, then the product is in fact more varnish than oil. I feel cheated. :-) :-) I like the results though - if you have patience!!

What product do you use?