I purchased this Wade and Butcher for $20 and want to try my hand at an aggressive project.
Below is the image of the razor I purchased. I will be replacing the scales with wood (ash) scales with Tung-oil finish. I want to reshape the toe to a hybrid Spanish point.
So is a grinder out of the question even if I progress slowly and keep the blade cool to the touch. What other methods can be used to re profile a blade?
I think most people here use a Dremel to reprofile blades. I do with success.
The main things to keep in mind are safety and temper. Wrapping the razor in a wet rag helps me keeping it cool, and some people keep a finger close to the cutting area to monitor the temperature.
I have a dremel too.
What dremel bits are most using for the bulk removal?
If you aren't going to use a motorized method then your best option is to use diamond files to produce that Spanish point. I use a set of diamond needle files that I got from Harbor Freight where I work. They get the job done and you have an array of shapes to work with. One could also glue sand paper to a metal rod to help produce the desired shape.
I use cut-off wheels and sanding drums. When using a cut-off wheel, the small piece I cut off will turn blue, while the razor itself will not discolour thanks to the wet rag. I actually cut right into the wet rag to catch the sparks and keep the razor cool. Smaller changes I make with the sanding drums, such as the rounding of the heel.
From yesterday on the bench a chipped Round Nose W&B changed to a "Barber's" Notch by request, we lost ZERO blade length on this one
Attachment 143535
I used a Dremel 430 1/4" Sanding drum and IIRC a 120 grit drum (to be perfectly honest I also touched it to the 72" belt grinder to dress up the front of the spine on a 320 grit but I didn't "have: to do that)
They make a 1/2" also you have to decide which to use
There is only one rule, "Take your time" if you rush a restore you will wreck a razor so don't rush,, a Black magic marker and a camera can help you decide what direction to go... I have a thread on here someplace on how to do that will post if I can find it
There is also a thread called something like the "Wicked Wade d' Butcher" where I did a modded Spanish point and heel on a razor much like that one you have
Thanks for the feedback everyone this is great.
I plan on taking this slowly as gssixgun suggested. This is one of those times where I will really force myself to stay slow and not rush.
The wet rag is a great idea Laurens which I will use.
Gssixgun I actually have that thread saved because that exact project inspired me! http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-re-grind.html
I did some photoshop editing to get an Idea ow what I'm after these are edits to the sale images. I will do an actual scan of the blade and use that scan to edit and create a scale drawing or printable image that I can use as a template.
Again these are simple before and after renderings from some pics just for fun I changed the background to a solid color for better contrast. I think I shortened the blade a bit to much but that's why I did this to get the best design!
Here is Before:
Attachment 143539
Here is after
Attachment 143540
How long is the edge to start with ????
I don't know yet I got this off ebay yesterday and it is shipping today. I will have this by Friday.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
But on a side note I do want to shorten the cutting edge. I want to have a small blade to play with!
Wait until it is in hand, you will know oh so much more :p
You are going to have to remove a lot of material to get to a Spanish point. I would make it smile, with just a bit of work on the heel, on a DMT. Just transfer the point curve to the heel tracing it on a piece of cardboard.
You can remove a lot of material fairly quickly with an aggressive DMT plate or smaller diamond paddle files as the edge is thin. I like the EZ LAP diamond flies for this they are great for shaping, like correcting heels and removing chips in a padded vice.
Another razor with more meat at the tip would be a better candidate for a Spanish.
When removing a lot of metal, a Dremel does work well, but heat can be a problem. A cup of water and a vice are your friends, two hands on the Dremel.
I breadknife the edge when reshaping an edge, just as a little extra insurance, and it is just a little, be careful.
I have an extra course and an extra extra course DMT plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
As you can see on my photoshoped images I brought the toe back very much to get into some meat. I bought his blade due to the price and the shoulderless design. I will put a smile on it, but could you explain how you would do it in a little better detail?
Oh absolutely...I just wanted figure out what I will need to get started so I can get my supplies this week and hopefully start working this weekend. I have test fit pins and final pins, 3 sets of wood scale blanks (ash cut to 1/8" thick book matched), and Tung oil already ordered and on its way.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I thought straight razor shaving was supposed to save me money!
I am supposed to start building a pergola for the wife's hot tube this weekend. So SWMBO has priority during the daylight hours but the night is mine!
Straight Razor shaving saves money about the same as reloading does with shooting :rofl2:
Trace the blade profile on a piece of cardboard, cut out the shape and reverse the cardboard so the toe on the cardboard is on the heel of your razor, trace on to the blade with a Sharpie. That is what you would have to remove to make the smile even.
Holding the razor in a vice padded with leather or dense foam, edge straight up, now you can shape the edge by hand or with a Dremel. If you use a Dremel, dunk in water the minute it begins to get hot. The thin edge will heat quickly.
After my initial post on your project, I read an article in this month’s November/December Fine Wood Working titled “Develop Your Own Design” by Michael Fortune, on his design process. Fortune is a designer, furniture maker.
It is an interesting article and one that while is a different medium, the design process is or could be easily adapted. Too often we see the results of bad, poor or no design or rushed construction. I see it frequently in Automotive customization and Home remodeling, where something just doesn’t look quite right.
Fortune uses a process of creating multiple Drawings, Foam Core or wood scale models, Full size Foam or Particle Board mock ups tweaking the design along the way.
One of his best recommendations is “Then, after letting a few days pass, I review the pictures on my laptop. Two things typically happen with a bit of time passing. An Idea that initially appeared strong will drop out of favor, and an idea that seemed so-so will propel me in an interesting direction.”
Nothing is lost in taking as much time as needed in the design process, making drawings, models and full size mock-up… before you start cutting.
Make full scale cardboard mock–ups of the existing blade and any modifications you plan on making, as suggested mark the changes on the blade to ensure what you plan, can be done.
Also be aware that removing that much steel from the toe will change the balance of the razor in your hand.
I kinda wonder what the toe would look like if it were the same shape as the heel - that's a wicked looking heel!
