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10-16-2013, 01:57 PM #1
I purchased a project razor and want to reshape the toe but need guidance.
I purchased this Wade and Butcher for $20 and want to try my hand at an aggressive project.
Below is the image of the razor I purchased. I will be replacing the scales with wood (ash) scales with Tung-oil finish. I want to reshape the toe to a hybrid Spanish point.
So is a grinder out of the question even if I progress slowly and keep the blade cool to the touch. What other methods can be used to re profile a blade?"The blade must always be respected"
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10-16-2013, 02:06 PM #2
I think most people here use a Dremel to reprofile blades. I do with success.
The main things to keep in mind are safety and temper. Wrapping the razor in a wet rag helps me keeping it cool, and some people keep a finger close to the cutting area to monitor the temperature.I want a lather whip
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10-16-2013, 02:09 PM #3
I have a dremel too.
What dremel bits are most using for the bulk removal?"The blade must always be respected"
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10-16-2013, 02:14 PM #4
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Thanked: 5If you aren't going to use a motorized method then your best option is to use diamond files to produce that Spanish point. I use a set of diamond needle files that I got from Harbor Freight where I work. They get the job done and you have an array of shapes to work with. One could also glue sand paper to a metal rod to help produce the desired shape.
You don't have to be insane to do the things that I do, but it helps.
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10-16-2013, 02:42 PM #5
I use cut-off wheels and sanding drums. When using a cut-off wheel, the small piece I cut off will turn blue, while the razor itself will not discolour thanks to the wet rag. I actually cut right into the wet rag to catch the sparks and keep the razor cool. Smaller changes I make with the sanding drums, such as the rounding of the heel.
I want a lather whip
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10-16-2013, 02:43 PM #6
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Thanked: 13249From yesterday on the bench a chipped Round Nose W&B changed to a "Barber's" Notch by request, we lost ZERO blade length on this one
I used a Dremel 430 1/4" Sanding drum and IIRC a 120 grit drum (to be perfectly honest I also touched it to the 72" belt grinder to dress up the front of the spine on a 320 grit but I didn't "have: to do that)
They make a 1/2" also you have to decide which to use
There is only one rule, "Take your time" if you rush a restore you will wreck a razor so don't rush,, a Black magic marker and a camera can help you decide what direction to go... I have a thread on here someplace on how to do that will post if I can find it
There is also a thread called something like the "Wicked Wade d' Butcher" where I did a modded Spanish point and heel on a razor much like that one you haveLast edited by gssixgun; 10-16-2013 at 02:50 PM.
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10-16-2013, 03:04 PM #7
Thanks for the feedback everyone this is great.
I plan on taking this slowly as gssixgun suggested. This is one of those times where I will really force myself to stay slow and not rush.
The wet rag is a great idea Laurens which I will use.
Gssixgun I actually have that thread saved because that exact project inspired me! http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-re-grind.htmlLast edited by Fort; 10-16-2013 at 03:14 PM.
"The blade must always be respected"
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10-16-2013, 03:08 PM #8
I did some photoshop editing to get an Idea ow what I'm after these are edits to the sale images. I will do an actual scan of the blade and use that scan to edit and create a scale drawing or printable image that I can use as a template.
Again these are simple before and after renderings from some pics just for fun I changed the background to a solid color for better contrast. I think I shortened the blade a bit to much but that's why I did this to get the best design!
Here is Before:
Here is after
"The blade must always be respected"
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10-16-2013, 03:13 PM #9
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Thanked: 13249How long is the edge to start with ????
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10-16-2013, 03:16 PM #10