I have these 3 options to use on my razors after i shave with them to prevent them from rusting. Which one should i use?
I keep seeing these pop up here and on other places. Is it a matter of preference or is 1 obviously better then the other?
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I have these 3 options to use on my razors after i shave with them to prevent them from rusting. Which one should i use?
I keep seeing these pop up here and on other places. Is it a matter of preference or is 1 obviously better then the other?
keep em dry and away from moister after use and you dont need to use any oil. if u plan to not use it in a longer period of time i would recommend getting silica bags or Camelia Oil, baby oil or any other mineral oils works fine to but i perfer Camelia.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toroo
I use food grade mineral oil, that way im not concerned with it getting on my face but all of them will work. It is up to you, some guys like tuf glide some like silicone spray ect. Use what works for you that is easy to apply and clean off, you can also dust them with baby powder or so im told :) Hope this helped a bit.
Is putting the razor away enough or is using oil/wd40 anyway better to make sure theres no water/moisture left?Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMagnus
Mineral oil, not the perfumed baby oil,,,my stored razors are checked every 6 months,,,no problem with them, in a cigar box with mineral oil on them.
I prefer to strop 10x on linen after shaving. It removes the last microscopic drops from the edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by toroo
Here's a neat little trick, if you're still concerned: wipe your thumb and index finger over your nostrils and then on the blade. The fat of your nose skin should keep the blade in good condition.
I hear normal WD40 is a no-go...a chemist here said, "like dissolves like" being that normal WD40 is carbon based. I hear the wipes are alright however.
Personally, I strop on linen after shaving to ensure dryness, leave the blade on the stand without the blade fully in the scales. When I put one away in my rotation, I apply Tuf-Glide to the razor. This is what came with my first str8 kit and works fine for me. It's a light oil with an anti-rust ingredient.
That's my routine...ymmv
im not using oil on any of my razors right now. i make sure thay are dry when i put them away.. i do have some silica bags in a few of my boxed razors.Quote:
Originally Posted by toroo
using oil is safer yes, but you also will haf to wipe it off and on every time you use the razor. if u dont mind doing that every time you use it then why not, it only gives you more protection against the possiblility of rust getting on the blade.
depends alot on the air you live in aswell. if you have a high moist% in your country then oil can be a good thing to use regularly
Yes, forgot to mention as well....aside from putting on the Tuf-Glide, I also store my razors in a large sealed Ziplock bag with several silica packets as well. This has worked for me, and as I use each razor for 1 week per, I can leave the oil on then for approx 2 months between rotations.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMagnus
And keeping the scales dry, especially the pivot is important as well, as I learned a year ago when a small dot of rust appeared right beside the pivot pin, lost a little bit of gold wash getting rid of the rust spot. (ouch)
But good, moisture free storage is vital....
Camellia oil is not recommended if your razors are likely to be stored for some time. Ballistol is a better alternative. Another tip is to buy a dispenser that works via a wick in the top - the bottle can be filled in the bottom part and the oil then wicks up leaving your fingers well away from the edge. As others have said, make sure the razor is dry before you put away or apply oil.
,,,,,,,,,,,Attachment 145062Quote:
Originally Posted by Laurens
Facial oil & salts do not compute with me either on a carbon steel blade Hirlau...nor would I recommend it
This is a much discussed topic with many divergent opinions. Unprotected carbon steel will rust if left exposed to water for any length of time, or if left unprotected to the air and humidity for a significantly long time. The lower the humidity and shorter the storage time, the greater the chance that an unprotected carbon razor will survive unscathed until its next use or inspection.
In my opinion, staining and rust are most commonly associated with:
- Unknowingly getting water between the scales during shaving or honing, especially in the pivot shank area, and then putting the razor away not actually dry. Damage can happen over night. This is an especially heart breaking tragedy for noobys who have acquired their first pristine razor and had this happen to them. It also is especially bad when it happens on or near delicate etching and gold wash.
- Placing an infrequently used razor in storage for many weeks or months only to discover bad staining and rust on its next use or inspection.
For short term storage between frequent uses, I wipe my truly dry carbon razors with Camellia oil marketed for the protection of steel blades. Mineral oil also works.
One should not expect any rust preventative treatment to work on a wet blade, The blade must be dry before wiping on oil.
I heat my blade after shaving under running hot water with the point slanting down being very careful to never get water under the scales. I then let the warmed wiped blade air dry on the counter while I clean up after shaving. When my cleanup is done, I strop 30 linen and 60 latigo leather. The blade is then wiped with Camellia oil and stored in a dry location until next use.
If I will not be using that razor for an extended period, I wipe it with a well respected gun oil (Ballistol, WD-40, Rem-Oil, etc.) Intended to protect firearms from rust during extended storage and wet field use.
Camellia oil tends to bead up on steel and may polymerize into a hard to remove coating after extended storage.
It is important to inspect carbon steel razors periodically to catch any corrosion issues before they get into an advanced state.
Caution should be exercised with celluloid vintage scales which can decompose emitting corrosive acid gas. Cell rot will not only wipe out its blade by rusting, but also any oiled or unprotected carbon steel blades stored in close proximity.
Clean and dry blades can also be wiped with Renaissance wax and silicone gun cloths.
It is important never to store razors in damp environments such as sub-grade basements and unheated garages.
Storing them in a clean dry sealed container with a dessicant pack may add additional protection.
HTH
I'm with Hiralau - I don't get it.... That gave me visions of a blade slicing off fat tissue inside someone's nose.
I looked up the description for the Tuf-Glide I use, for your info, it's oil free and: TUF-GLIDE penetrates hard to reach areas and displaces water. It provides cleaning, rust protection and lubrication. Pure mineral spirits carries the active ingredients and provides cleaning action. It quickly evaporates, and Sentrys proprietary ingredients bond to the surface. The bonding ensures long-lasting effectiveness, and reliable dirt free performance.
TUF-GLIDEs waterproof protection will not wash off and will not thicken in the cold (even down to -40°F/-40°C). It is dry to the touch so will not attract dirt like oil-based products, nor does it leave a slippery film like silicone. It is safe to use on wood and most plastics.
Again though, I thoroughly dry the blade, ensuring no moisture is left between the scales, especially the pivot area as I mentioned before, and let air dry on my razor stand before applying any Tuf-Glide.
As I mentioned, that came with my initial starter kit and was works for me....
Technically, all 3 choices would work.
Vaseline... do you mean petroleum jelly? If so, then you can use it, but it would make things a bit sticky.
WD-40... I remember reading that Glen (gssixgun) used that on his razors at some point. I use it on all of my tools, but not my razors. It is a penetrating oil, so it would work. However, I'm not sure about its health effects on your skin.
Baby oil... as mentioned, this is basically mineral oil with fragrance. It'll work. I've used this on my razors in the past. I stopped using it because I didn't want my razors smelling like baby oil. I switched to using food-grade mineral oil (USP), which has no scent; this is the type found in drug stores, in the laxative section.
I only use oil on my razors if I store them for a long time (e.g., over a week), or right after I hone them. I just dry and store my razors in a dry place after every shave.
That is plain silly ;) Wiping fingers on nostrils to make them fat, then wipe fat on razor. Shooter has a point though, with the facial salt. I tried it a few times with good results, but I got lazy and stopped oiling/fattening my razors and went with just careful drying. Some got a few spots, most don't. I don't mind the spots.Quote:
Originally Posted by AirColorado
WD-40= Water Displacement 40th test material
Yes, WD-40 is also approved for use with foods ie., use on knives for food prep etc..Quote:
Originally Posted by SS502MC
WD-40 is a product that does multiple things things, not all of them especially well ( and I find it smells).
The Sentry solutions products are more specifically geared towards products like razors, firearms etc...and is not an oil based product.
My two cents, YMMV...
edited to add: many of the intro kits to str8 shaving I've seen come with the small pen applicator of Tuf-Glide and I've read here a few months ago another members opinion that carbon based products, like oil, can be termed, "like dissolves like", therefore to stay away from oil based products. Tuf-Glide and other products are mineral spirit based, but again, it's another opinion....
While WD-40 is not that toxic (rated 1 - slight health hazard) it's definitely not safe to be ingested nor food safe, so I'd be leery of using in on kitchen knives, etc.
I'm no chemist - this is just from their MSDS.
I wipe oil or other protectants on my carbon blades before storage to minimize the risk of blade staining and rust while in storage, even when storing them only over night, I rinse carbon razors being taken from storage under hot running water and wipe immediately before shaving.to rinse off the mineral oil or other protectants. I do this to minimize the potential for residues possibly affecting my skin. This precaution is especially true for synthetic gun rust protection products which are not meant for ingestion or application to the skin.
Many "wonder" protectants work well, but I do not fully trust any product's water displacement claims and only apply protectants to blades that are fully dry. I only use mineral or organic oil products that are well proven for blade protection or respected firearms rust protectants for long term storage. I store blades only in dry locations.
I wipe all razors before stropping so that dirt, protectants, or moisture cannot affect my strop. I also wipe my strop with my hand before use to remove any dirt or grit from the strop.
HTH
I use ballistal. Right after I wipe the blade dry. Neat thing about the oil is that it will mix with water. Plus it is technically edible, not that I would try it. I have never had any corrosion problems. Plus I like the smell of it.
I use gun oil... Easy to apply and if it keeps my guns in good shape ... It should do the same for my razors
I rub my nose all over my new paddle strops several times to break them in. One nose rubbing will provide as much oil as several hand rubbings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Laurens
I dry my razor with tissue. Then spray all the steel with 70% isopropyl alcohol (mixes readily with any remaining water and evaporates fast. Then dry again. Let air dry while I get dressed, make the bed, etc. Then return to strop and then spray the steel with food grade silicone spray and wipe again. Then put it back in the display box with its brothers ready for use next time.
Are you rubbing it into my face now?Quote:
Originally Posted by eod7
Do yourself some research to see what the other 30% is and you just might switch to a higher concentration of alcohol or add some oil to the mix...let me know what you come up with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
I would assume the other 30% is (distilled because it is used for sterilization purposes) water since it mixes readily with alcohol and stays in suspension. It is exactly for that characteristic that I use it. Since 70% is the highest that is readily available, it does just fine. It is an additional preventative measure most do not take anyway!
This totally makes sense! At my job we use alcohol alot for cleaning electrical connector, cannon plugs, etc for some of the same reasons! It will help evaporate moisture thus helping with corrosion prevention!Quote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
You get moisture on your electrical equipment connections at work? That sounds like a serious problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by robert2286
Last I checked, alcohol was used to clean electrical equipment because it cleans well and evaporates quickly. With a quick evaporation, you don't have to worry about leftover moisture. Getting moisture off electrical equipment requires more than just wiping with alcohol.
Ohh... Yes! I am an aircraft mechanic for CV22 and C130s... CV22 are always dirty, nasty and wet! When we rebuild harnesses and connectors, etc we use like u said alcohol for cleaning! And it helps getting all moisture out... Aircraft wiring systems especially Military rescue aircrafts are extremely susceptible to moisture! Not cool! It keeps us very busy! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by henryconchile
Sounds like a fun job. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by robert2286
I was heading to be an aircraft mechanic after high school, but that market was bad in the 1990's. However, I had fun working on planes and parts during my days in Aviation High in NYC.
Do you guys use that waterproofing stuff made by Boeing for aircraft parts? I think its called Boeshield.
Yes indeed! Especially in Boing aircrafts... Lockheed uses something similar! All of our harnesses and connectors are environmentally sealed ! Well! They are supposed to be!
I live in humid Miami and have always used mineral oil. I get it at the drug store in the laxative section and it's inexpensive. Baby oil is just mineral oil with fragrance added to it.
WD40 is garbage. I don't know how it ever became so popular as it is NOT a metal protector.
That didn’t occur to me, but yeah, it makes lots of sense. Salt is very corrosive. If you live in Wisconsin, where after a snow storm, the roads get salted, you can attest to the fact that salt will eat through metal and cause your car to rust out pretty quickly unless you take it to a car wash and get the salt off your car, including the underbelly.Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743
And thanks for the heads up you gave me a week or so ago about camelia oil not being good for razors. You’re right, I remember putting away wood working tools, like chisels, coated in camelia oil, and then finding them at some later date all gummed up from the camelia oil.
One tip maybe not everyone knows? Buy some camphor blocks from your pharmacy. Slice an ‘X’ into the wrapper they are contained within and store them in a closed container with your razors. The camphor emits a gas (or something) that surrounds the razors and protects them from rust. It used to work great, once again, with my wood working tools.
Hope this may help someone.
I’ve read, and found through personal experience, that WD-40 degrades plastics. So it might be harmful if it gets on some razor’s scales.Quote:
Originally Posted by ProudMarineDad
And no, WD-40 is •not• a metal protector. The WD part of the name stands for ‘Water Displacement.’ So that’s basically all it does - it displaces water.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProudMarineDad
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruseth
Are you sure ????
GIYF you might read about many of the tests that have been done over the years for every new "Gun Protector",,, without a doubt two things occur in most every one of those tests
1. Whichever product is doing the test wins :p
2. WD-40 is present in almost every test (it is the 30-06 of these types of tests) it places within the top 5 on every test I have read, and usually higher than that...
ps: I have typed this stuff till my fingers bleed, I no longer search it out or bother to post the links, you can take the time to either search for it yourself or search out the old threads on here for them..
Balistol is also high on my list of good stuff for razors
Glen, I think WD-40 is paying them to say that.
There's only one metal protector I will use and that's Corrosion-X.
I have found nothing better and many people echo that including my brother who is a master heavy equipment mechanic. ;)
I just found these, got one with a new razor, they seem designed for exactly for razor storage, hope this helps:
Attachment 146239
THE SUPERIOR SHAVE SILICONE-TREATED COTTON STRAIGHT RAZOR SLEEVE
This is an effective anti-rust solution for a lifetime; it is not merely a barrier prohibiting entry of moisture, but rather a tool which continually draws moisture from the inside to the outside; think of it as creating a reduced-humidity 'fog' within and beyond the razor, and the more arid the environment in which the razor's stored the bigger the foggy area. Simply store the straight razor inside and leave in the open so that the moisture wicked away from the interior to the exterior can evaporate.
Made for decades by hand in the USA by various American firms for the firearms industry (known as "gun sleeves", "silicone cloths", etc. etc.), these particular oil-and-silicone-treated-cotton sleeves are from 100% USA materials/labor and make oiling steel within potentially irrelevant. The makers say to not oil the steel for any razor stored inside the sleeve, for this can seal moisture under a film of oil (they've also decreed that if one insists on using both sleeve and oil, use a product which allows evaporation-by name they recommended Ballistol).
