Salvaging Crown Embossing on Scales

Here's a fun little project I decided to dive into finally. A while back I picked up a nice Crown and Sword razor but the scales were completely cracked off on the pivot end (picture below). I like the embossed (or whatever it's called) crown and sword logo on the scales and would like to salvage them. I thought about cutting off both sides of the scales and trying to attach some G10 or other materials to both ends but will need to experiment a bit first. Also thought about thinning the newly trimmed scale pieces and mounting both on copper or brass again using some material to make up both ends.

Any ideas? Anyone done something similar?

Attachment 145252

Really no clue, but an interesting potential project.

I had a boker that I restored. The scales were broken. I cut out the logo in an oval shape and inlay it in a new set of purple heart wood scales. I had to use the dremmel to make a recess for the oval to fit into and it worked. Good luck

What about scarfing a contrasting piece on the pin ends of both scales and lining with some metal or thin Carbon Fiber.

I had one that was broken too and I made an inlay out of sheet aluminium and finshed the hardwood scales in CA.
I really should get my camera out

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

What about scarfing a contrasting piece on the pin ends of both scales and lining with some metal or thin Carbon Fiber.

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I think you are on to something there. Another possibility is to use a scape scale of the same material instead of a contrasting piece still using a thin metal liner to hold it all together.

Bob

Thanks gents - lots to consider. Though while pondering this one I started another 3… Seems I'm a bit hyper these days. One of the projects I'm working on right now involves Micarta and I'm doing some inlay as well as contouring the scales. If that works out I may try something similar with this one - or go with the idea of adding a liner and salvaging the Crown by bracketing that piece. I'll resurrect this thread and post some pics of what I decided when I get back to this one.

Hey Guys,

How about creating a mould using latex, I have seen them do it on restoration shows. It looks like the original is not damaged by the latex so worst case you are where you started.

You could cut the original to size and then put some mockup ends to the the cut off bit, that way you could pour resin couloured to your liking into the latex mould.

Crackers

There just might be a thread on that here now that you mention it IIRC.

Bob

You could cut it out in an oval or square shape the edges smooth, make a new set out of a dark wood, lay a layer of epoxy and scuff it with 220 then use a drop of super glue to held it in place, then apply another coat of epoxy and you got a floating emblem in your finish... just a thought for something unique.

OK, knew it was buried here somewhere. How about this approach http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...in-scales.html ?

Bob

Having recently gone the "structural crutch" route using .025" carbon plate (from dragon plate), I can say that it works fine. My challenge was the bond between the scale material (wood) and the carbon. Despite some history with composite structure, I could not get a great bond between the carbon and wood. The wood was quite brittle and broke (pealing away from the carbon) on a couple of instances while working the shaping. Although, I wouldn't hesitate to to it again with the lessons learned.

If I were contemplating this, I would do some experimenting with what glues work well with celluloid. I don't know how you would be able to hide the seams between the donor scales and the original. Maybe use a contrasting color and make it part of the design?

The inlay route appeals to me as well but that is just because I am looking to broaden my skills in that area...

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Originally Posted by Splashone

The inlay route appeals to me as well but that is just because I am looking to broaden my skills in that area...

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Bob I'd have quoted you as well but don't know how to insert multiple quotes...

I've taken that particular dive into inlay waters and it's well worth the time. Though, each of my inlaid scales may come with a bit of "human meat inlay" as well for a time - needle files can rip a bit of skin as well as blades and sanders.

Seriously, what I'm finding is that with inlay it's tough to determine which is more important, design or execution (but both are pretty much "the whole ballgame"). That wasn't completely obvious until finding a tiny gap between inlay material and surface of the scale after I began to sand off the area. Aaarrgggg!!!! But, in a day or two I'll wrap up a few I'm working on and post some pics. If these turn out it'll be well worth the effort. I started out "small" - just a single piece of material inlaid on each scale, but even that got complicated once I deviated from a pure rectangular inlay. Oh, and I guess I didn't "inlay" as much as cut out a hole in the scale material and try to fit an inlay that's the same thickness as the scale and hole. Lots of issues arise there...

The idea of casting resin scales is likely something I'll try - but maybe not with this particular blade - too many other "new" methods I'm in the process of trying/learning at the moment. It appears that when I have time on my hands (finally!) I tend to cast a wide net for new ideas and techniques and have to manage how many I take on at once. Guess I have a bit of ADHD without the deficit part!