Gents,
any suggestions for removing active rust at the pivot without removing scales.. The blade is in mint condition besides the very lil bit of rust at the pivot..??
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Gents,
any suggestions for removing active rust at the pivot without removing scales.. The blade is in mint condition besides the very lil bit of rust at the pivot..??
floss? small tab of metal polish on a q-tip?
Pipe cleaners work well, especially the ones with plastic bristles.
Sometimes I hesitate to give this advice...
Warning these things are dangerous to your skin and eyes wear safety glasses and Nitrile gloves when you use them, I know they seem safe but get the fibers in your fingers and then in your eyes and you will be VERY sorry...
Amazon.com: Fiberglass Rust Brush Detail Prep & Cleaning Tool: Automotive
These work very well, just be careful using them
A good beginning is to take a q-tip, smash it with a hammer, and dip it into some damp Comet or Ajax. Amazing how much it will do for the pivot and the insides of the scales. Gets a lot of rust out. Scrub and move blade around, scrub some more. Q-tips are cheap. If it gets floppy, get out another one! Rinse well, blow out pivot with compressed air. Then do same with Maas or semichrome polish.
Don't cut yourself!
Not quite as dangerous as fibreglass but If you have a dremel these little abrasive wheels spinning @ 19k rpm do a great job on tangs .
Those little detail tools Glenn writes about are really good at that as well as a number of other cleanup uses. Definitely heed the warning about protection though. That said, I've used them on pivot areas, etchings, scale embossing and inlay, and countless other things. Inexpensive and effective. Where I once used a Dremmel I now use those prep tools with much less possibility of too much material being removed.
The absolute best way is to unpin the razor,if you have active rust is no way you can remove it all without doing so.
Not an answer you may want to hear.
And, those fiberglas detail tools will get under your skin and onto any place you sit and...well you get the idea. The tiny strands of broken glass take a long time to come the surface!
~Richard
I haven't yet..tried the idea of an old "Waterpic" and tooth powder. I have used a sand blaster airbrush though with baking soda and low pressure.
I picked up some of those buffing wheels Onimaru shared in post 6.
Man, are those thing great, perfect for getting between the scales at the pivot.
Picked up a 16 piece set of 4 mandrels and 4 grits of 4 each wheel for about 20 bucks from Jetstools on EBay here is the link.
The newer ones have the quick change version and are much more expensive. I can work a screwdriver.
Thanks Onimaru, great tip.