Thread: Questions about combining buffers and hand-sanding

Be careful with the grease less. You can soften if not destroy edges with it. I have found that after 400 grease less I can use a sisal wheel and grey compound to get those scratches out. This all does not replace hand sanding. Somethings require the detail you can only get by hand. You have to learn what as you go. Your skill level has a lot to do with it. Keep it all cool :<0)

My progression for compounds is grey/black, green, white, then blue. Some of these compounds can be switched with other colors but that is what works for me before I go to 3 different polishes.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...lustrated.html


There is a ton more info tucked into the sticky at the top of this forum

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Originally Posted by 10Pups

My progression for compounds is grey/black, green, white, then blue. Some of these compounds can be switched with other colors but that is what works for me before I go to 3 different polishes.

Thanks for that information. If one were using the red compound, where would it go in that progression?

Which three polishes do you use? The polishes are by hand?

I have found that after 400 grease less I can use a sisal wheel and grey compound to get those scratches out.

I gather that the sisal wheel is the most aggressive wheel. I'm inferring that you vary combinations of wheel type and compound type to get fine shades of difference in aggressiveness. Is that correct?

What wheels do you use at the lower grits?

After the grey/black and sisal wheel, what wheels do you use for the green, white, and blue compounds?

Does your choice of wheel in that progression vary by condition of the razor?

I hope all these specific questions aren't annoying. I've got a lot to learn. I know what you mean about learning as you go. The more information I get before I start, the fewer bad mistakes I'll make while learning as I go.

Joe

Joe

Lines, edges, etc:

Learning to carefully buff the same direction as the makers grind will revel tricks to keeping much of everything intact

Now technically razors are mostly ground from edge to spine DON"T try that with a buffer go from spine to edge

Here is another pretty important tip you have to read through the chaff

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-question.html



Always remember that the razor dictates what your approach is going to be and one important axiom of restore

"The pits will inevitably be just deeper then any etch you want to save"

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Now technically razors are mostly ground from edge to spine DON"T try that with a buffer go from spine to edge

Here is another pretty important tip you have to read through the chaff

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-question.html

"basically don't push the razor back against the curve of the wheel, the razor edge stays pointing straight down. so that the wheel is never burning the edge off. . . . what you are doing is following the wheel instead of the other way around,,, Most of the time this is caused by holding the toe and the heel and pushing with the thumbs, DON"T do that... I rest my index finger across the back of the blade it is the safest and easiest to control that I have found."

Thanks for that. Really important basic information.

I'm reading the sticky now about walking a W&B through the progression.

Joe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dane_YnrB3w

There is a lot to be careful about with the greaseless as it can put a hole in a full hollow quickly. Keep water close by if you use is and remember that with a lot of junk razors, you can end up with a shiny, unevenly flattened, pitted, but usable razor.

I like to follow the 600 greaseless with hand sanding from 320 up to around 1200 grit. Then I hit the black emory compound or a grey bar, followed by green, white and then a rouge sometimes. For me, the key to getting a mirror finish that you can count eye brow hairs in is to make sure you get all the deep scratches out. I really have found that the Matchless bars work the best for me on the compounds.

Have fun.

Originally Posted by Lynn

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dane_YnrB3w

There is a lot to be careful about with the greaseless as it can put a hole in a full hollow quickly. Keep water close by if you use is and remember that with a lot of junk razors, you can end up with a shiny, unevenly flattened, pitted, but usable razor.

I like to follow the 600 greaseless with hand sanding from 320 up to around 1200 grit. Then I hit the black emory compound or a grey bar, followed by green, white and then a rouge sometimes. For me, the key to getting a mirror finish that you can count eye brow hairs in is to make sure you get all the deep scratches out. I really have found that the Matchless bars work the best for me on the compounds.

Have fun.

I've watched that video before but will watch it again, and some others, before I put blade to wheel. Easy to forget basic things, until you've actually gotten in and done some of the work.

Joe