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Gents,
I need some advice on my new restore project. I'm sanding a "Jetter & Scheerer" wedge razor and I'm quite satisfied by the result so far. But the next stap will be honing the blade and that's where I run in some trouble.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/IMG_2850.jpg
As you can see the blade isn't straight anymore the heel is a bit wider than the rest of the blade. So I need som tips or tricks on how to correct this problem. Thnx in advance.
Hi Noxa.
The next step is *NOT* honing. The next step is restorative grinding to get rid of that heel section overhanging the edge. There may be additional issue, but that one just screams out. I wouldn't be in a hurry to get off a diamond plate or sandpaper. Get that heel up and then work a rough bevel. Then go to a bevel setter. Its gonna be alot of work, but hopefully will bring the joy when done.
Best of Luck w/ 'er.
You have to re-contour the heel to start, otherwise you are just going to recreate the same issue..
The heel and shoulder have to be rounded and moved up an out of the way of the edge, this can be done on a DMT 325 or the like on the edge or using a Belt Grinder or even carefully with a Dremel..
You have a good heavy blade there so you should be pretty safe... Once you sort out the heel issue I would start the bevel set with 3 layers of tape just to see where you are at, do a few laps on a 1k on both sides and see what is hitting and not hitting a Black Marker might really help with this test
A pic of both sides just like above after all that will help us help you
:) Robert typed faster but I was typing more hehehe
As requested, some more pictures.
1st. The other side of the blade
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/IMG_2853.jpg
2nd. a look along the bevel from the heel.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/IMG_2854.jpg
Thnx for your advice guy's. I do not had a DMT but I do have a Naniwa 220 would that one solve this job, or would it be more advisable to visit my old man who owns a belt grinder?
Hmmmm I have used a Norton 220 in the past but I used the side of the stone because they are quite soft and the heel would dig in, so you might try it on the side and see what happens .. Go slow take your time and you should be alright but that hooked heel has to go before you can get a bevel set..
The shoulder might have to be relieved a bit also to get it off the hone :shrug:
Attachment 169190
The red line is about what you want it to look like before you hone. If there is a stabilizer there where the arrow is then the thickness of that is going to have to be thinned out of the way of your bevel. If it's not your blade will be raised off the hone until you have ground it off with the hone and that will be a mess.
Glen/Gssixgun has a video about bread knifing but he also does some heel contouring with the dmt I found super informative
Wow! Great help guys, I really appreciate it. I will show my progress here.
If you have access to a fine file I would try that, it is a little quicker then bread knifing and way safer then a Dremel. I would also mark out what needs to be done using a Micrometer so that it is the same width at the point as it is at the heal. I am sure tons of others have more experience then I do, but for me it seems to be easier to sharpen when everything is the same size.
I would say use the side of the stone. Using the grinder means things can go real bad real quick! I use a dmt 325 when I have heel spurs and it goes rather quickly that way. I'm not saying you should bread knife the blade but watch the video to get an idea on how to reshape that heel. Plus you will learn a lot of other great hints for future problem razors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Noxa
Few day's later and I want you to show you my progress. I grinder of the bump on the heel as advised on the side of a Naniwa 220 stone. I also grinded a little bit of the shoulder so it lay's flat on the hone, after that I continued sanding and buffing.
Only couldn't finish buffing it because my buffer suddenly starts to speed up during buffing, really scary! Have to call the supplier tomorrow.
Picture time!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/foto%201.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/foto%202.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/foto%203.jpg
great job! nice finish! what progression did you do?
Sanding paper: 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 2000, 2500
Buffer with fine and verry fine compound. But didn't buff it that much.
Hi Noxa,
'Glad others chimed in.
The most recent photos are a dramatic improvement - in profile - not just 'cause its shiny. It looks like bringing that shoulder up further will be needed. You mentioned thinning it out so it rides the stone flat. Bringing the shoulder up higher would likely make that unnecessary. By the time a bevel is well established - you might be back to riding the shoulder if it doesn't come up higher.
Something to keep in the back of the mind when setting the bevel and honing - the buffers can make the job a bit more work. If it gives you trouble, don't hesitate to (as Glen counseled me) to 'kill the edge' and establish the bevel again. This amounts to just running the edge over the side of the stone or rim of a glass to collapse the edge. The purpose is to get through weak/old/spotty steel to clean steel that takes a good bevel & makes for easier honing for the rest of the progression. If initial bevel set is good, ignore the above.
Being a heavy grind (I'm particularly fond of them), be prepared that it'll take some time. 'Possibly more than your patience can endure in a single setting. The wedge has to have alot of metal moved around. I also one who uses tape - 2 layers when honing a wedge, and when setting the bevel, I'll often use 3 or more and work it on the DMT 325 until it gives a good TNT. Then I'll strip off a layer & hit the bevel setter until it gives at least a modest shaving of arm hair at skin level. At that point, I'm down to 2 layers, still on the bevel setter and refining the bevel until it lops hair rather effortlessly at skin level.
That process is usually more than the surface of your bevel setter can do without refreshing slurry or breaking through any glaze created by so much work. Don't be surprised or afraid to refresh the surface of the stone.
By the time you're done, you'll have done alot of work, but learned ALOT. That's at least as valuable as having another blade in the drawer. 'Hope it goes well. Pls let us know how it goes.
Thnx for your extensive reply, will read it again when visiting the hones. This weekend will do some work on new scales as I cracked the original (but ugly) scales.
Nice finish on that blade.
These EZ lap Diamond stick, are what I use for reshaping heels, these are inexpensive, come in variety of grits, and you can totally control how much and how fast you remove material.
I have used the DMT and low grit stones, but you really can’t see what you are doing as you grind off steel. Using these diamond sticks, you rest the spine on the bench, I use a piece of craft foam to keep it from dancing and slowly remove exactly as much as you need. The blade is pretty thin here so the fine grit (about 600) works fine here).
These little sticks are very hand around the shop and you will find a dozen other uses for them.
Great Information...Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
I can sure use some of these!
Myron
Oh that's a great tip, I will be visiting a great tool shop this saturday and I believe they sell these things there. Thnx.
That being said, I've just drawn some scale designs:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/IMG_2871.jpg
So shoot me :).
Yesterday me and my dad visited a woodworkers shop that was loaded with really manly equipement. My dad bought a brand new bench scroll saw and I got myself a set of diamond files.
After that we went home and I made some scales out of pear-wood, sanded of a bit of the heel and this is the result so far.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/IMG_2874.jpg
and
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/IMG_2875.jpg
I now have to wait until my buffer is repaired to finish the blade, after that it is pinning the blade and oil the wood (already got 1 layer, especially between the wedge parts). Next time I'm gonna try micro bolts and screws, I think it makes it all a lot easier.
