Thread: Need advice on bevel setting/restoring

Gents,

I need some advice on my new restore project. I'm sanding a "Jetter & Scheerer" wedge razor and I'm quite satisfied by the result so far. But the next stap will be honing the blade and that's where I run in some trouble.

As you can see the blade isn't straight anymore the heel is a bit wider than the rest of the blade. So I need som tips or tricks on how to correct this problem. Thnx in advance.

Hi Noxa.

The next step is *NOT* honing. The next step is restorative grinding to get rid of that heel section overhanging the edge. There may be additional issue, but that one just screams out. I wouldn't be in a hurry to get off a diamond plate or sandpaper. Get that heel up and then work a rough bevel. Then go to a bevel setter. Its gonna be alot of work, but hopefully will bring the joy when done.

Best of Luck w/ 'er.

You have to re-contour the heel to start, otherwise you are just going to recreate the same issue..

The heel and shoulder have to be rounded and moved up an out of the way of the edge, this can be done on a DMT 325 or the like on the edge or using a Belt Grinder or even carefully with a Dremel..

You have a good heavy blade there so you should be pretty safe... Once you sort out the heel issue I would start the bevel set with 3 layers of tape just to see where you are at, do a few laps on a 1k on both sides and see what is hitting and not hitting a Black Marker might really help with this test

A pic of both sides just like above after all that will help us help you



Robert typed faster but I was typing more hehehe

As requested, some more pictures.
1st. The other side of the blade

2nd. a look along the bevel from the heel.


Thnx for your advice guy's. I do not had a DMT but I do have a Naniwa 220 would that one solve this job, or would it be more advisable to visit my old man who owns a belt grinder?

Hmmmm I have used a Norton 220 in the past but I used the side of the stone because they are quite soft and the heel would dig in, so you might try it on the side and see what happens .. Go slow take your time and you should be alright but that hooked heel has to go before you can get a bevel set..

The shoulder might have to be relieved a bit also to get it off the hone

The red line is about what you want it to look like before you hone. If there is a stabilizer there where the arrow is then the thickness of that is going to have to be thinned out of the way of your bevel. If it's not your blade will be raised off the hone until you have ground it off with the hone and that will be a mess.

Originally Posted by Noxa

As requested, some more pictures.
1st. The other side of the blade

2nd. a look along the bevel from the heel.


Thnx for your advice guy's. I do not had a DMT but I do have a Naniwa 220 would that one solve this job, or would it be more advisable to visit my old man who owns a belt grinder?

I would say use the side of the stone. Using the grinder means things can go real bad real quick! I use a dmt 325 when I have heel spurs and it goes rather quickly that way. I'm not saying you should bread knife the blade but watch the video to get an idea on how to reshape that heel. Plus you will learn a lot of other great hints for future problem razors.

Few day's later and I want you to show you my progress. I grinder of the bump on the heel as advised on the side of a Naniwa 220 stone. I also grinded a little bit of the shoulder so it lay's flat on the hone, after that I continued sanding and buffing.
Only couldn't finish buffing it because my buffer suddenly starts to speed up during buffing, really scary! Have to call the supplier tomorrow.
Picture time!

great job! nice finish! what progression did you do?

Glen/Gssixgun has a video about bread knifing but he also does some heel contouring with the dmt I found super informative