Thread: Need advice on bevel setting/restoring

Few day's later and I want you to show you my progress. I grinder of the bump on the heel as advised on the side of a Naniwa 220 stone. I also grinded a little bit of the shoulder so it lay's flat on the hone, after that I continued sanding and buffing.
Only couldn't finish buffing it because my buffer suddenly starts to speed up during buffing, really scary! Have to call the supplier tomorrow.
Picture time!

great job! nice finish! what progression did you do?

Sanding paper: 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 2000, 2500

Buffer with fine and verry fine compound. But didn't buff it that much.

Hi Noxa,
'Glad others chimed in.
The most recent photos are a dramatic improvement - in profile - not just 'cause its shiny. It looks like bringing that shoulder up further will be needed. You mentioned thinning it out so it rides the stone flat. Bringing the shoulder up higher would likely make that unnecessary. By the time a bevel is well established - you might be back to riding the shoulder if it doesn't come up higher.

Something to keep in the back of the mind when setting the bevel and honing - the buffers can make the job a bit more work. If it gives you trouble, don't hesitate to (as Glen counseled me) to 'kill the edge' and establish the bevel again. This amounts to just running the edge over the side of the stone or rim of a glass to collapse the edge. The purpose is to get through weak/old/spotty steel to clean steel that takes a good bevel & makes for easier honing for the rest of the progression. If initial bevel set is good, ignore the above.

Being a heavy grind (I'm particularly fond of them), be prepared that it'll take some time. 'Possibly more than your patience can endure in a single setting. The wedge has to have alot of metal moved around. I also one who uses tape - 2 layers when honing a wedge, and when setting the bevel, I'll often use 3 or more and work it on the DMT 325 until it gives a good TNT. Then I'll strip off a layer & hit the bevel setter until it gives at least a modest shaving of arm hair at skin level. At that point, I'm down to 2 layers, still on the bevel setter and refining the bevel until it lops hair rather effortlessly at skin level.

That process is usually more than the surface of your bevel setter can do without refreshing slurry or breaking through any glaze created by so much work. Don't be surprised or afraid to refresh the surface of the stone.

By the time you're done, you'll have done alot of work, but learned ALOT. That's at least as valuable as having another blade in the drawer. 'Hope it goes well. Pls let us know how it goes.

Thnx for your extensive reply, will read it again when visiting the hones. This weekend will do some work on new scales as I cracked the original (but ugly) scales.

Nice finish on that blade.

These EZ lap Diamond stick, are what I use for reshaping heels, these are inexpensive, come in variety of grits, and you can totally control how much and how fast you remove material.

I have used the DMT and low grit stones, but you really can’t see what you are doing as you grind off steel. Using these diamond sticks, you rest the spine on the bench, I use a piece of craft foam to keep it from dancing and slowly remove exactly as much as you need. The blade is pretty thin here so the fine grit (about 600) works fine here).

These little sticks are very hand around the shop and you will find a dozen other uses for them.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Nice finish on that blade.

These EZ lap Diamond stick, are what I use for reshaping heels, these are inexpensive, come in variety of grits, and you can totally control how much and how fast you remove material.

I have used the DMT and low grit stones, but you really can’t see what you are doing as you grind off steel. Using these diamond sticks, you rest the spine on the bench, I use a piece of craft foam to keep it from dancing and slowly remove exactly as much as you need. The blade is pretty thin here so the fine grit (about 600) works fine here).

These little sticks are very hand around the shop and you will find a dozen other uses for them.

Great Information...
I can sure use some of these!

Myron

Oh that's a great tip, I will be visiting a great tool shop this saturday and I believe they sell these things there. Thnx.

That being said, I've just drawn some scale designs:


So shoot me .

Yesterday me and my dad visited a woodworkers shop that was loaded with really manly equipement. My dad bought a brand new bench scroll saw and I got myself a set of diamond files.
After that we went home and I made some scales out of pear-wood, sanded of a bit of the heel and this is the result so far.

and


I now have to wait until my buffer is repaired to finish the blade, after that it is pinning the blade and oil the wood (already got 1 layer, especially between the wedge parts). Next time I'm gonna try micro bolts and screws, I think it makes it all a lot easier.