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Hi guys,
Did someone have a trick for getting greaseless compounds to stick to cotton buffing wheels? I bought a set of six compounds and am starting with black and white, but they seem to be wasted far more than they stick. Any suggestions?
I think the buffer might be a bit fast at 1750 rpm and 8" buffing wheels. I might see if I can make my buffer into a pulley-driven machine, but I'm out of extra money!
Did you apply this to the wheel first Greaseless - Caswell Canada the glue stuff
Need more info
Black and White ???
Type of wheel
Trick I used to use,is spray the wheel with WD 40,than the greasless.
PS:
SFPM = Surface Feet Per Minute is the operative part of buffing, so by changing the 8 inch wheel to a 4 inch you will accomplish two things, both good :)
1. You will cut your SFPM in half with the same buffer set up
2. Using a 4 inch wheel allows you to get into the hollows better when buffing from spine to edge
pps: Good Reading here except ignore anything the says PRESSURE we don't use PRESSURE when doing razors :D
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/Buffbook.pdf
Awesome, thanks gssixgun.
I bought a set of 6 wheels and 6 compounds from Caswell, and a rake. I started with the cutting compound (black) and then first polishing compound (white) and have rouge, green (presumably crox) as well. Have sisal, sewn and loose cotton wheels.
I may get the glue and/or try the wd40.
Thanks!
Ok there is where I got confused
Those are not greaseless, the Formax compounds from Caswells are the greaseless ones
Standard Buffing Compounds - Buffing/Polishing - Caswell Inc
They are rated by Grit from 60 -600 good luck finding the 60 hehehe most of use start at 80
These are actual cutting compounds (Will flash sparks when used) as oposed to the Polishing compounds on that page..
Most of us use both Greaseless and Polishing compounds
Thanks to a friend I have some nice sized samples of actual 'greaseless' and the glue to try before buying. However I had previously ordered what I 'knew' were 'polishing compounds' and not greaseless 'abrasives'.
Caswell offers a 'group' of the larger bars of what I believe are the same polishing compounds but at another site I found 'thumb sized samples' for a very reasonable price.
Here's Caswell's offer:
Jumbo Buffing Compound Starter Pack - Standard Buffing Compounds - Buffing/Polishing - Caswell Inc
Here's what I purchased so I could 'Play' and see how it all went:
Junior 6 pc. Jewelers Rouge & Polishing Compound Kit
Even with shipping I found it economical to use the samples to play with and very informative about what they will and won't do.
I do hope this is of some help/if not to you but to others looking to use other materials to accomplish their goals. :shrug:
That's the set of six bars I bought. May be overkill, but it's water under the bridge.
So I need the glue?
First and foremost to the best of my knowledge you don't need any glue with the products you have purchased so far.
I wouldn't look at it as 'Overkill' as the reason I ordered the 'sample kit' was because the polishing compounds are supposed to have a 10 year shelf life and I'm a very small operator. I figured that by sampling I could pick and choose which ones would work best for straights. I've found that the Blue worked great on some plastic and celluloid scales that had bolsters but that was with my buffer and not at 1725 rpm.
I don't want to hijack your thread but you'd mentioned about possibly converting to a belt driven machine. If you're interested in seeing my variable speed buffer just click on my 'handle' and check out my latest threads you should find it.
I've played a little with the greaseless but only a little. I was hoping to play more during my vacation but life got in the way. Besides I need to order more 4" spiral wound cotton wheels so that I can dedicate each one to a specific grit of greaseless or polish but again life gets in the way ($$$$$$) No ($$$$$$$) no wheels!
I've told every apprentice that I've ever tried to help that family comes first and that's true here at The Boars Nest!! :tu
You don't need glue for those. They will color the wheel but not build up like greaseless. If they don't seem to be doing much, it's because they don't. I think only the black emery, green, and white are of use on razors. I believe the others are for softer materials. The black is the coarsest and white the least and the last steps before moving to polishing paste for a mirror finish. They don't have enough cutting grit to get out any serious pits, rust, or scratches. As mentioned, you would need greaseless compound for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Atchbo
Check this chart out from where I purchased what I believe are the same products just in a smaller size with Black being the Coarsest and Blue being the finest:
Jewelers Rouge & Polishing Compound Chart - PJ Tool
I hope this is of some help :shrug:
This is exactly your problem. Use smaller wheels like GS said to better get at the hollows of the blade and of course to lower your RPM a bit so as not to throw your layer of compound before it sets,it'll also help prevent over heating of your blade. When funds allow you may want to follow through with your idea of the belt driven buffer,use a quarter to half horse low RPM motor and a step pulley to allow full RPM adjustment and if possible buy or make a leather faced wheel. I made mine by plying 6 discs of leather together with gorilla glue and turning them true to center with a file while under power at the lowest RPM setting,it worked perfectly. I hope it helps.
I don't know if this is true for all situations, but prep your wheels first. I learned this the hard way when compound was not sticking to my cheapo HF wheels. I used a flat head screwdriver and some scissors to get my wheels all set. Are you using spiral sewn wheels, loose cotton....? I am not an expert in this area FYI, while someone like Glenn is so take whatever he says as fact.
For the greaseless compounds, I've been using this method: turn the machine on at 1750; keep one hand on the on switch; press the compound against the wheel; leave the wheel on for about a second; then turn the switch off while keeping the compound pressed against the wheel. The wheel slows down fast, dragging the compound into it but not slinging it.
I picked this up from a video by someone who does it professionally.
The alternative I've seen and sometimes used is to leave the wheel running at 1750 and push the compound against the wheel for only a second at a time. One second on, two second off, one second on, two seconds off, and so on.
Joe
GLUE ? I just been putting it to the wheel.
The guys that KNOW have weighed in. They all have been spot on with their advise. Please try it and let the rest of the community know how it works out.A big thanks to10Pups for the greaseless samples I put it on just like the guys said . Did just so. I hope you reap the same positive results I did.Quote:
Originally Posted by carrolljc
Another consideration: a well-raked wheel takes compound better than a new wheel that has not been raked or a used wheel that has old compound on it. For raking, I've been flipping the switch to 3500 and raking thoroughly. That kicks up a lot of fluff. A dust collector is a good thing to have going at that time.
Joe
Thanks guys. I don't have any projects at the buffing stage but will try the suggestions you have offered. I think the smaller wheels and turning the motor off should help, and now I recognize the difference between buffing compounds and greaseless.