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Thanks to all of you on this forum I decided to try a CA finish, WOW this stuff works good on small scale projects. I finish wood for a living and was skeptical of CA but decided to try it after seeing everybody elses results.
The wood is maple, the blade has "King of all Razors" stamped on one side and "John Bestgen & CO." on the other.
I took pictures of the whole process - I will post them somewhere when I finish labeling them.
Thanks
Charlie
Wow, coming from someone who does that for a living, it's a strong 'attaboy' for CA. Curious, did you use activator, and if so how? Also, how many coats? thx - John
Nice!
I have to learn how to use that stuff.........
Great work!
C utz
I did not use any activator. I applied a total of about 12 coats, I lost count. I put on about 3 or 4 coats in an 9 hour timespan.
I am not an expert on CA glue this is my first time coating a complete object with it.
Here is the link to pictures I mentioned about making the scales:
http://simianstats.com/monkey2/page1.htm
Charlie
Great dye work. I've never thought of it, but I think I will give it another shot :tu
I have been planing on making some scales soon and that answers lots of questions thank you
Nice, I like the dye idea too. I did the same recently with red dye, but in my case it was McCormick food coloring. I diluted 2 water to 1 dye (a few drops of each) then spread it with a q-tip and wiped onto surface with paper towels. Looks about the same as yours, though I suspect yours penetrated the wood deeper.
good work - John
Food dye, that is pretty cool. The food dye will penetrate just as good as any other dye. The only minus is that it is not as fade resistant as dye made for wood. As long as the razor is not left in direct sunlight or bright light it should not fade for long time. I have read of people using hair dye to color wooden instruments. I have a friend that uses shoe dye to color the black piano keys.
Charlie
Nice post, Charlie!:tu
There's a lot of good information in there for somebody just thinking about getting started in scale making. I'll definitely be re-visiting those pictures again.:y
Thanks
-Lou
Lou!
I just saw the movie 'Sideways' last night....NOW I know where you got your avitar image from!
Ok, sorry, back to razors........
C utz
bingo!Quote:
Originally Posted by C utz
-whatever
-Lou
END OF :OT
Beautiful work Charlie...nice scales and I loved the step-by-step pictures of everything. I've been getting ready to start on my own scales and your pictures of everything has really amped me up and boosted my confidence that just maybe--just maybe, I can do it too.
Thanks for sharing,
-Pary
Freakin' awesome process documentation!! Is the key trick for the spacer an original idea? Absolutely genius!! Bravo.
-Steve
Again good stuff. I use to use the paper glue process for glueing the two halves together, now I found that double sided scotch tape (Staples) is faster and cleaner and holds real well.
Thanks for sharing your nice work.
Alsays in seach for the liight and 0 degree radius.
Joe 32 degree
The key was my idea. I was rummaging through some junk trying to find something to make the wedge out of and decided to use a key the thickness was close enough to work.
I will use the double sided scotch tape on my next set of scales. I had used double sided tape in the past but it had some thickness to it that I did not like. The thin Scotch tape is a good idea.
Charlie
You can also use Vodka tape, but its hard to find.
What is vodka tape?
Charlie
Sorry, could'nt resist. Just a joke.
Wow, Charlie. I just had a chance to look at your website and see the steps you took to make the scales. Does the cyanoacrylate 'yellow' over time and give warmth to the wood like regular nitrocellulose lacquer, or would you recommend putting a dye on bare wood for these type of finishes?
PS I'm a huge fan of coping saws, too. That's all I've used to cut out razor scales and it works very well for me.
Very nice. I have often thought of trying to make some scales, especially for otherwise good blades I have, but with poor scales. What you have done is very impressive, and I thank you for the details.
I hope I can find them again when I get up the mustard to try it myself.:rolleyes:
There are many more qualified people to answer questions about CA for a finish. I do not have lots of experience with it. The color of the CA film was like a water white lacquer, not yellow/amber like old school nitrocellulose. It was a very clear film like shellac or lacquer, it has great optical properties. It seems to really accentuate the figure in the wood. I do not know how it ages over time.
I do not think dye is necessary with the CA, I was just trying ad some pizazz to an ordinary piece of maple.
Charlie
ABSOLUT-ly!Quote:
Originally Posted by BOGARTUS
nice pun!Quote:
Originally Posted by spazola
nice scales, too
Hey All. NEWBIE question of the day. What does CA stand for? :confused:
Cyanoacrylate = Superglue