Need some advice on how not to buff away part of a toe

Interestingly, when I began restoring razors I hand sanded. I had a buffer so I bought some Greaseless and bought more buffers and wheels.

Now I buy razors in much better condition that do not require major blade restoration. When I do, I now hand sand… again… then buff to finish.

This process maintains the crisp lines Wullie is talking about.

The one thing buffers excel at that no other method will, are buffing the jimps.

A spiral cotton wheel, with worn 600 grit greaseless, a very firm grip and light touch makes them shine and gets that corner where the blade meets the tang.

As said, buffing is dangerous… keep a light touch, let the compound do the work and think about what your are doing, watch the angle of sharp edges approach the spinning wheel, edge always away from the direction of rotation and watch the heat, quench frequently.

For bright gleaming finishes, buffers cannot be beat. A combined sanding/buffing technique works for me. It may take more time, but I do like the results.

And as I buy older razors, a 0000 steel wool/WD40 cleaning and honing, and they find their way to the rotation. Some pitting and patina is the character the blade has collected over decades, everything does not have to shine…

The reason quality Vintage and Antiques are better than new stock, is they have been Quality… Longer.

Restoration is a state of mind.

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

As said, buffing is dangerous… keep a light touch, let the compound do the work and think about what your are doing, watch the angle of sharp edges approach the spinning wheel, edge always away from the direction of rotation and watch the heat, quench frequently.

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Good concise directive. As the whole buffing apparatus and process has become more familiar, keeping attention focused on those directives has become easier. It is still possible to get tired or careless and let a blade get flipped out of my hands. So far, just lucky, no injury, and no chipped blades. I'm hoping skill and attention will steadily step in to replace the luck, which--it is a statistical certainty--will eventually run out.

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And as I buy older razors, a 0000 steel wool/WD40 cleaning and honing, and they find their way to the rotation. Some pitting and patina is the character the blade has collected over decades, everything does not have to shine…

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A few days ago, I acquired a Frederick Reynolds 7/8 wedge in pretty good condition, good enough so that I let it directly enter the rotation, without restoration. I'll try the 0000 steel wool/WD40 cleaning on it.

True about the buffing wheel getting into the jimps. The one area that is hardest for me to deal with, either through buffing or hand-sanding, is the spot where the blade meets the shoulder.

I hand-sanded a couple of blades before I began buffing. About ten hours per blade. Patience was going to be a problem. Then tendonitis struck. I'm prone to it. (Killed weight lifting years ago.) So for me it's now largely buffing or nothing, except for a little peripheral, supplementary hand sanding.

When I first got the RAD bug about a year ago, I bought largely at random, and often cheap. A lot of those blades were both small/thin and also badly oxidized. I've learned some buffing on them. Gradually, the buying got more targeted. Undream has a little tutorial on what is worth buying for restoration. I've now made that my Bible for buying.

Why you shouldn’t have your straight razor restored | Maggard Razors - Straight Razor Restoration, Custom Scales and Wet Shaving Products

"The ideal candidates for Restoration & Re-scaling

- Large full hollow blades over 6/8 that need new scales, but minimal blade work.
- Any wedge over 6/8 in size, regardless of amount of rust
- Unique or valuable razors
- Razors that have excellent quality steel, but lousy scales – example: Filarmonica, Henckels Friodur, etc.
- Any razor with sentimental value or family heirlooms"

I don't have any sentimental value razors. Mainly what I'm now aiming at are wedges over 6/8. But I still buy a few full hollows if they are large and in good condition.


Joe

I use the hard yellow muslin from Lowe's. I start my passes just in front of the shoulder or if shoulderless right after the start of the edge. Do one pass and turn the razor to make one pass on the backside; it helps with heat distribution. I run 6" wheels and have never had a problem. The thing is to look at it like grinding a razor (which in a way you are); make flat contact and glide the blade across the wheel, never dig in and never move it around to get a tricky spot. I hold the blade to the wheels contour first before turning the buffer on to see exactly where I need the blade to make contact and go from there. Good luck.

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Originally Posted by tiddle

The thing is to look at it like grinding a razor (which in a way you are); make flat contact and glide the blade across the wheel, never dig in and never move it around to get a tricky spot. I hold the blade to the wheels contour first before turning the buffer on to see exactly where I need the blade to make contact and go from there. Good luck.

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Say that one more time Please !!!!

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Originally Posted by tiddle

I use the hard yellow muslin from Lowe's. I start my passes just in front of the shoulder or if shoulderless right after the start of the edge. Do one pass and turn the razor to make one pass on the backside; it helps with heat distribution. I run 6" wheels and have never had a problem. The thing is to look at it like grinding a razor (which in a way you are); make flat contact and glide the blade across the wheel, never dig in and never move it around to get a tricky spot. I hold the blade to the wheels contour first before turning the buffer on to see exactly where I need the blade to make contact and go from there. Good luck.

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Good advice. I've been trending in that direction. Your description of it will firm up that direction.

As said you need a VERY stiff wheel. I tried the concentric sewn wheels on one b/c its description touted its ability of contour work so I thought " hey that would be great for the hollows and tang!" WRONG! All it succeeded in doing was rounding edges and the flex dug into the edging causing wavy witness lines; ya live and learn sometimes.

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Originally Posted by tiddle

As said you need a VERY stiff wheel. I tried the concentric sewn wheels on one b/c its description touted its ability of contour work so I thought " hey that would be great for the hollows and tang!" WRONG! All it succeeded in doing was rounding edges and the flex dug into the edging causing wavy witness lines; ya live and learn sometimes.

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The firmest I've found are the Treated Spiral Sewn wheels offered by Caswell.

Treated Spiral Sewn Wheels - Buffing Wheels - Buffing/Polishing - Caswell Inc

I looked up the treated wheels on Lowe's website yesterday. I couldn't tell from their information if any of their treated wheels come in a 3/4" arbor. I put in a question to them about that. I suspect that the treated wheels from Lowes are more or less the same as the Caswell treated wheels. Looked about the same. But if they come in a 3/4" arbor, I'll try them and compare.

Yep those are the ones.