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Alright, I tried applying a cyanoacrylate finish on cherry razor scales that I hand made. The only problem is that I used tons of thin layers of the glue, and the overall finish is still rather thin. So thin, in fact, that in my attempt to rub it out, I cut down to bare wood in patches. So are there any tips or tricks to make sure you get an even finish over the entire scale? I think this would help with rubbing out the finish.
Thanks
I found there's not a whole lot to do either than build up those thin layers. Every once in a while I'll sand through the CA in small parts and have to re-apply to some areas; and that's even with 10+ coats of CA. The only thing that makes CA easier is to make sure you apply a good load of layers first, to minimize the risk of sanding through. Applying extra layers is much less of a pain than the precarious situation of sanding through.
I know this is an old thread but I found this video, It is done on a lathe but maybe it can be applied to scales in a similar way. Hopefully it helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-FXOsMR2tY
I have found that a thicker CA glue (Gel) seem to be easier to use. I do a few coats of very thin CA to seep in and fill/seal any cracks/voids using paper towels to apply. Gotta keep the towel moving or it will stick! Then I use a thicker CA like a Gel version and again use the paper towel to get a thicker coating. I leave it in a well ventilated area area that is dry to let it cure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taz575
I've only tried using a thin coating of CA and UT turned white and dried all weird, it was so bad that I would have had to sand down every coat and it wouldn't be worth it. Unless that's just common
EVERYTHING you need to know is right here:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ints-tips.html
White film usually means high humidity or temps or applying over a layer that hasn't dried fully yet.
I tried the Gel stuff and it worked well to get thick layers after the thinner penetrating coats! Takes MUCH longer to cure though!
I may need to get some better quality CA I've heard hot stuff is best and I was just using a cheap 4 pack of "super glu" from walmart. So glad I tried it on a scrapQuote:
Originally Posted by taz575
I've had good results with the WoodCraft brand and the Hot Stuff brand. I also use the Super Glues for fletching arrows for my compound bow :)
Heres a tip for you CA guys (am not a fan of CA finishes) Tried it 10 yrs ago on scales and brushes,worked great,nice and shiny.
But make sure whatever wood you use is drop dead Dry,if not you will have issues down the road,JME
So absolutely don't try and CA finish something that previously had an oil on it like Danish or tung oil? Or do uou mean wood that is not completely dried naturally?Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Properly Air or Kiln dried woods,water content.Quote:
Originally Posted by seanreum1
CA dries or cures when it reacts with the moisture in or on the bonding surface. That is why it will almost always instantly dries on fingers. The first time I tried a CA finish I found myself sanding through the finish when I tried to smooth out the entire surface with 320 grit instead of getting most of it smooth and keep moving up in grit whenever I noticed the low spots start to get smaller. Don't think I would want to try paper tower because I am sure I would have bits of paper stuck to the scales constantly. I use plastic gloves that I cut the fingers off. Got the idea from the thread that Chevhead pointed out. I have also used wax paper to spread the glue, but ended up with more glue on my fingers than on the scales. One thing I have learned is don't keep smearing a layer longer than needed. Once you have it spread over the entire surface stop and let it cure.
So your saying to get it decently smooth with your low grit sandpaper and don't aim for perfection until the higher grits?Quote:
Originally Posted by JSmith1983
You may be confusing CAs with Polyurathans.Quote:
Originally Posted by JSmith1983
My point about water content is if you totally seal a pce of wood with CA and it as water content of more than about 6%,your going to have issues down the road,YMMV.
Exactly. Sorry to make it take longer to say that lol. Read the thread that Chevhead pointed out. Take it slow. I know that is a big problem with me whenever I try to do something. I always get excited to see the finished results that I try to rush things. I am still learning to be patient.
Yes wood needs to be dry. I should have clarified. It is the surface moisture, not wet, that makes it react. I don't mean drops of water on the surface. High humidity can make a bottle become solid pretty fast.
While no expert in this I've had some success with CA. I use Gorilla brand. When working on scales I sand them to about 320 then run a bead glue the length of the scale. I smooth it with my finger that I've covered in blue masking tape. Seems to work well. Usually dries in about 40 min. Sand out the shinny bits with 320. After 2 thick coats reduce the amount on the next few coats and go up to 400. After the first 2 coats its much easier to sand out. In my view 4-5 coats is the sweet spot. Sand it up to 600 then hit it w buffing compound.
You're done.